1968 johnson fd22m not starting

[steinbro]

I have a 1968 johnson fd22m, it has not started since i got it with boat. I am new to engine repair but can navigate. i have replaced plugs, breakers(spaced at .20), selnoids, water pump, rebuilt carb, fuel pump and new fuel lines but it will not start. Any help or guidance appreciated.

 

[racerone]

Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more , yes or no ?-----Any pictures of the coils ?

 

[steinbro]

Spark gap for plugs? See ignition photo for coils

 

[racerone]

Those look like replacement coils.--Likely are OK.----Plug gap is 0.030", but the ignition system was designed / built to be able to fire across a 1/4" gap if in good condition.----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4", yes or no ?

 

[steinbro]

I cannot see spark, and even went and got a plug tester cannot see spark there either but sure did give a jokt when i touched and pulled cord. Did get a compression tester and each cylinder is furst pull about 30 than second is around 70 than 120 for 3rd pull.

 

[F_R]

If you cannot see a spark, well there ya go. Shocking you means nothing. Clean the breaker points' contacts shiny bright. Even new ones need to be cleaned.

Selnoids??? whazzat?

 

[steinbro]

Ok did so now i got a start but than it died within second. 1 part down i guess. Checked brand new. With 30:1 and fuel is at pump and carb.

 

[racerone]

Post a picture of a " selnoid " as we do not recognize what that is.

 

[Crosbyman]

clean the points again set them at ;020 on the cam's high point for a start (initial setting)

do check the coils secondary winding connections with a volt ohm meter from the rubber plug sockets to engine body (ground)

set he meter to 10KOhms and read both wires separattly ... you should see something between 4-8Kohms
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3Zc9Q33ex8


meters are cheap $10-25$ if not familiar learn how to ... check utube lots of video on how-to test coils

 

[hardwater fisherman]

Post a picture of a " selnoid " as we do not recognize what that is.

Maybe he means condensers?

 

[steinbro]

Selnoid was misreferenced it is the condensers. And will start again tomorrow with resetting it all with auggestions

 

[Crosbyman]

fyi
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be
http://www.pochefamily.org/outboard/Coils.htm
http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm

 

[steinbro]

Thank you crosbyman, that video was of great help. So i did the timing by marks and had 1 set good. But on second one i could not get a non resistance mark down it just was either no resistance or full resistance per turn of flywheel depending on how i adjusted. not sure if theee is a next fault to it? i did out of curiosity try to start and it did but than died soon after start.

 

[Crosbyman]

fix one issue at time.... both halves of the magneto circuit must work....

no resistance is called a SHORT as in 0 ohms as in solid electrical continuity
full resistance is called OPEN as in no conductivity

when the marks line up.... the points are just OPEN ...ning as in "time to fire" the spark plug associated with that set of points

you MUST have the same condition on both sets of points.... fix that first and check for good sparks on the plug better yet use your spark tester to confirm a solid jump 1/4 to 3/8 inch on each plug wire

when FIRE on both plugs is present........... then worry about fuel...getting inside the cyl. properly

 

[steinbro]

Still working on continuity. testing "A" is showing continuity(which a zero on ohms correct me if i am wrong) on 2 points when spinning flywheel. I did not see that on video.

 

[oldboat1]

might be wrong, but looks like an uninsulated wire going to the rear set of points. Kill switch wire, maybe? I would remove it and see if you have spark -- need to use an adjustable spark tester ($10 or so).

 

[oldboat1]

btw -- suggest you simply set the points to open as the arm contacts the highest point of the cam, then do it on the other side -- no electronics at least initially. Clean with a piece of wet/dry sandpaper dipped in acetone or lacquer thinner, and set to .020 (slight friction when removing strip). Check to make sure the points are assembled correctly as well -- contacts should meet dead on, not offset.

 

[steinbro]

Ok redid step for step on video i must have messed up on part. I have both timed on mark to display a 1 on voltimeter for ohms. Now for spark test.

 

[oldboat1]

Before you test for spark, use the mutlmeter to measure secondary resistance between the spring clip in the plug boot and the mag plate (really any good powerhead ground). You should get 3000 to 8000 ohms -- also tells you that you have a connection running from the spring connector through the wire and coil connection, to the mag plate.

 

[Crosbyman]

"Ok redid step for step on video i must have messed up on part. I have both timed on mark to display a 1 on voltimeter for ohms. Now for spark test. "



ok your wording is confusing..... if by "1" you mean Open infinite resistance.... fine

sometimes suing a $10 needle type meter is more easy to grasp... the needle swings to 0 on the right side of the scale when you have 0 ohms and swings to the left under a number like 7 which on a 1000 scale means 7000 ohms like in the secondary of the coil

or... it goes full left side for an infinite (open) resistance of unknown value since electricity can't flow in thin air (open contacts) see video at 1min 44 sec.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rGDx92McTY



that said are you getting sparks on both plugs ??? ​