I'm actually quite interested in doing this test. Can you elaborate a little as to exactly which parts to test between? I just hadn't gotten to that point yet.
I haven't been able to find a way to break it down any further. I have no idea how to get down in to the bendix/armature... I can get it out - but haven't seen anything obvious on how to get further into it.
The commutator should be cleaned up/shined up if dirty. I use a piece of sandpaper, maybe 400 grit. You may be at a point where you should assume the armature windings are shorted or burned, which should mean replacement of the starter. (Good to exhaust cleaning/lubricating/testing before going there, but might have arrived.)
oldboat1 - that's a great link.. Thank you... I haven't been able to find any videos on removing/replacing/cleaning/servicing the bendix on mine..
Truth be told - I have a new starter on the way - but I intend on breathing new life into this one.
You measure between the motor shaft and each spot on the commutator (where the brushes ride) - these connect to the windings. DMM should read as though the test leads are not connected to anything.
Well - the starter issues are resolved for now (new starter)... I will however break down the old one and go through the electrical tests to confirm everything.. Will also try to photo the process and put it here for further education.
The ohms test is valid and useful. But it is not a complete test. That requires a test instrument called a growler. Of course, the average bear does not own a growler. You would have to take it to a starter repair shop to have that done.
I recall seeing a growler being used many years ago.----Today I have more faith in a digital OHMETER than a device that you have to interpret the pull on a hacksaw blade !!
