Neutral Switch Adjustment??? 2001 Johnson 200hp Outboard...

TheBigSur

Cadet
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Oct 5, 2017
Messages
17
Hello. I have a 2001 Johnson outboard and had to replace the neutral shift switch (3 port side cylinders cut off, etc. and this switch was indeed the problem). Upon installing the new one, I notice that the "button" at the top of the new switch does not get depressed when shifting to forward, into neutral, or into reverse. Having potentially exhausted my web search, I did come across a previous thread from the iBoat forum dated back to 2010 regarding a very similar issue. However, I never really saw a specific answer to the question. Is the neutral shift switch adjustable in its housing? Or is the adjustment made in the shift linkage? Any help is appreciated and I'm happy to post pics if necessary. Thanks to everyone for their help and expertise. I appreciate it.
 

Faztbullet

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Mar 2, 2008
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Only works when prop has a load on it ....wont work on the hose.
 

boobie

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Nov 5, 2009
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When did they start cutting out the port side cylinders ??
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 25, 2004
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27,030
To be clear,you are discussing the shift assist switch, versus the neutral interlock switch, right?
 

TheBigSur

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Oct 5, 2017
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Faztbullet, This is EXCELLENT news! I have only tested it on the hose, but plan to put it on the water later today. I had a feeling that being on the water may impact the functionality of the switch, but couldn't really figure it in my head. I will get back with you to confirm that this was indeed the case. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! boobie, She started cutting out after I put her on Lake Murray. I could only get her up to approx. 2000 RPMs and then she would cut out and die. I limped around the lake and tried to fish, but it was extremely frustrating. When we finally called it a day, I stopped to eat at a Cracker Barrel and noticed that I had gear lube leaking from the gap between my upper and lower unit. I thought..."just great!" So, fast forward a month and I have replaced my water pump, spark plugs, cleaned all 6 carbs, and repainted my lower unit (I had quite a bit of aluminum showing). After cleaning the carbs (which were clean anyway) and syncing the mix screws, and checking pressure from my VRO, I began testing each new plug. I had good spark from my starboard side, but none from my port side. This was really peculiar, so I googled it, and the first hit discussed the neutral shift switch. I disconnected it and all six cylinders were banging strong! I was happy to have found the problem. However, trying to find the new switch was not easy as it's been discontinued. I must have called 8 different marine parts dealers and to no avail. Finally, after searching E-bay, I came across a similar switch where the "switch end" matched, but the plug into the powerpack was different. I simply spliced the new switch to the old plug and tested resistance with my multi-meter. All worked fine. I also tested the new switch on the motor when connected to the hose. Depressing the button caused the motor to cut out, so I knew the switch was working properly. I hope this post/experience helps others in diagnosing their motor issues. With this issue, you could run down a 100 rabbit holes, only to find that a simple switch was the problem. Thanks again for the replies...y'all have a great weekend!
 

TheBigSur

Cadet
Joined
Oct 5, 2017
Messages
17
Oh...before someone calls me out about the gear lube between upper and lower units, I also replaced the prop seals and the shift shaft o-rings. I'll also check to make sure that water isn't in the lower unit after my test run today. Thanks, guys!
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
TheBigSur...as others have pointed out you meant the starboard/right side...but we understood.

one other thing to observe is - is the vertical piece that is attached to the shaft loose? The vertical piece is what the switch attaches to..if it is loose you'll get some unexpected cut outs. What I did was take the shaft out and had someone TIG weld the vertical piece to the shaft rather than the pressed fit....solved my problem.
 

TheBigSur

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Oct 5, 2017
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cfauvel, boobie, Joe Reeves- Hi guys. Great conversation...and thanks for the additional advice on the TIG weld (hopefully I won't have to go that route). Relative to the cylinders that were cutting out when diagnosing the issue...I'm pretty sure they were the 3 on the port side of the motor. I know I've read threads where it's supposed to be the starboard side that cut out when the switch is activated. I had a neighbor that was helping me with the plug tester and he started hooking it up to the bottom right (as if I were standing behind the boat and looking at the motor....that is starboard, correct?). Each of those 3 plugs threw a spark when I cranked the engine. However, the other side (left, port side) did not give a spark when I cranked it. Perhaps I'm missing something internally that is happening when the switch was bad? But even though I'm a "Cadet," I do know my port from my starboard side! :bounce:
 

boobie

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Nov 5, 2009
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Back around '98 or '99 I heard from somebody at OMC they had changed the side for the cyls to cut out but as you know they went broke so I never pursued it. Monday I'm going to look into it again and if I find out anything I'll let you all know.
 

TheBigSur

Cadet
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Oct 5, 2017
Messages
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Faztbullet and others...Took her out on the water tonight. Shifted as smooth as silk with the new shift switch! Had no idea I needed resistance on the prop to make it work correctly. Synced my carbs as well by adjusting the fuel/air mix screw 6 1/4 turns out. Boat ran excellent! That 200hp pushed that 23 ft. WA at 37 mph WOT. I was very happy! Thanks everyone!
 

boobie

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Talked to BRP customer service today and they said somebody has changed the wiring on the motor so 2-4-6 would cut out when the shift switch was activated and not 1-3-5. Said there was nothing wrong with doing it. Just confusing when trouble shooting.
 

TheBigSur

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Oct 5, 2017
Messages
17
Talked to BRP customer service today and they said somebody has changed the wiring on the motor so 2-4-6 would cut out when the shift switch was activated and not 1-3-5. Said there was nothing wrong with doing it. Just confusing when trouble shooting.


boobie. Thanks for checking on that for me! I appreciate it. I did buy the boat used and it was serviced by a marine mechanic who just may have switched the wiring. Guess my boat is special! LOL. Thanks again and take care.
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
Talked to BRP customer service today and they said somebody has changed the wiring on the motor so 2-4-6 would cut out when the shift switch was activated and not 1-3-5. Said there was nothing wrong with doing it. Just confusing when trouble shooting.


Curious at what year did they change the side and if it continued to be swapped for the remainder of the years that used the shift interrupter.
update: (oh re-read Boobie's comment...it IS supposed to be the right side, but somebody ELSE wired it to the port side...right?)

OP...yay that the motor is running right again.
 
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