1968 Evinrude 85hp electric shift no spark

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
I just picked up this old evinrude yesterday and I cant get spark at all. I have the flywheel off and noticed that there is no antireverse spring. Would this cause a no spark issue if its missing? What other things can I look for? I am completely stumped.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,033
A missing anti-reversing spring is NOT the cause of the no spark condition.
 

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
That's what I figured, thanks. What is the amplifiers function? Is it a cdi? When key is on it makes clicking noises.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
The amplifier takes 12 Volts from the battery and increases ("amplifies") it to about 300 Volts, and stores it in a capacitor until time to fire a cylinder. At the same time, it is looking for a signal to tell it that it is time to fire. When the points break, that is the signal it is waiting for. When that happens an electronic switch sends that 300V stored in the capacitor to the spark coil, and the spark coil builds the 300V up to whatever it takes to fire a spark plug (thousands of Volts).

So, yes it is a battery powered capacitor discharge system.

The anti-reverse cutout spring is exactly that--it prevents the motor from running backwards. And it can, if the spring is missing.

Be careful. One little screw-up can blow that $$$$ amplifier. It is especially sensitive to loose or corroded connections. Think battery cable connections.

You need to know what you are doing when working on it. And the factory service manual is obsolete with outdated tests with outdated testers.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
No Title
 

Attachments

  • photo278145.jpg
    photo278145.jpg
    209.1 KB · Views: 0

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
Cool, thanks for the Info, that helps a lot. I know that I only have 7.5 volts going into the amp with key on. I'm guessing I probably have some bad connections somewhere. Thanks for the detailed response.
 

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
I still cant get this thing to fire. I even tried putting the automotive coil and condenser ignition. I started it in the dark and saw sparks coming from the 2 yellow charging wires when I turn it over. Will that kill the whole ignition and cause a no spark situation? If so Ill just get a whole new stator.
 

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
The wires are completely stripped of insulation right where they go into the stator.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
Maybe some super glue to seal, then something to coat. I have some of that water proofing stuff advertised on TV, and it's really pretty good for a number of sealing uses -- might try something like that (some silicone sealant might do it). May finally need to replace the stator, but worth a try.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
think that's what you are risking now, with the bare or chafed wiring.
 

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
Cool, thanks, I believe this is probably my no spark problem.
 

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
It's completely bare, I think I might have finally found my problem.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
So, have you figured out why you only have 7.5V going into the amplifier? I suppose a short to ground in the voltage regulator / rectifier / alternator stator circuit could draw so many amps away from the amplifier input that it causes a voltage drop to the input.

EDIT: Try unplugging the voltage regulator and see if that gives you proper amplifier input voltage while cranking. Unplugging the regulator removes it and the other yellow wire fed stuff from the picture (and any possible short to ground)

EDIT EDIT: You probably should also unplug the rectifier while doing the above test. Unregulated voltage could cause damage. Unplugging the rectifier disables the alternator so it can't be producing that unregulated output.
 
Last edited:

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
Yea, I unplugged all of it. I finally got 12 volts at the amp. I'm still not getting spark. I have never had this hard of a time getting an engine to spark. It's nuts but, thanks for your input guys I appreciate it.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
OK, since you now at least have 12V to the amplifier, it is time to do some more troubleshooting. Disconnect the blue wire from the coil, unbolt it from the motor, and rotate the whole thing to unscrew the spark wire from the distributor cap. Now, remount the coil and reconnect the blue wire. Rig up a spark gap off the end of the spark wire.

Disconnect the wire between the amplifier and breaker points.

Turn key on, double check your 12V input, then lightly brush the wire from amplifier disconnected from the points across a bare metal grounded part. You should get a flurry of sparks across the spark gap. If you do, you know the amplifier and coil are at least good enough to work.

No sparks? Then you have a bad amplifier or coil or both. You decide which. 50% chance of being right or wrong. A new amp might come with a new coil anyway (?)

If you got sparks, check breaker points, distributor cap and dist rotor.
 

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
So I converted it to auto ignition. I noticed that when I block the points open, I have continuity at - side of coil and engine block ground. This means any voltage going to points is going straight to ground. I disconnected the ground and hotwire going to points and I still have continuity. I have found that the distributor base plate is the reason for the continuity. Is this supposed to be like this or am I missing a rubber insulator or seal, or something?
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Of course the base plate is grounded. How else could the breaker points complete the coil circuit to ground when they are closed?

Is the wire between coil and points pinched under the plate, maybe?
 

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
The wires are fine, I changed them both. I keep getting continuity when breakers are open, is that right? Continuity between - coil side and block. I thought when breakers are open, voltage just most across, mines going straight to ground
 

dan2744

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
337
Is there a safety switch or something that I am not seeing? Does it have a neutral safety switch or something similar? I put a new amp on today, and still nothing.
 
Top