Re: Pull cord won't pull
Ah, it looks like I was getting a bit ahead of where we're at then. Mark42 is absolutely correct - you do not want to start this engine unless it's in a bucket of water filled up to the seam between the lower unit and the mid-section. That is the bolted joint that is 3 or 4" above the horizantal plate above the propeller. Forget about muffs - the type that fit your engine are very hard to find.<br />Don't worry too much about impeller damage now; you'll have to replace it anyway. It's best to replace them every season or two, notwithstanding use since they go bad just sitting around. Yours is definitely too old.<br /><br />There's many ways to test spark. There's little adjustable testers you can get from auto tool stores for a couple dollars which work very well. But you can construct one out of a couple nails banged into a peice of wood. The idea is to make an air gap around 1/4" wide and connect one end to the spark plug wire connector and the other needs to be electrically connected to the metal of the engine (just about anywhere, really, so long as it's part of the 'block' or directly joined to it. I habitually use one of the electric starter-bracket studs). Crank the engine fast (with the plugs out) and you should see it nice big sparks across the air gap.<br /><br />A compression tester from a discount tool place will run less than $20, or a lot of retail auto supply stores have tool lending programmes if you don't know anyone who has one. They're pretty easy to use - you just screw it into one of the spark plug holes, crank the engine for 4 or 5 complete revolutions, and note the reading on the guage.