Getting ready to work on the 140

interalian

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After much procrastination, the 140 project is ready to hang on a standared automotive engine stand. I'd thought of building something out of wood but found this locally for $40. Why not?
 

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emdsapmgr

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Wood engine stands work fine. At work we made ones that incorporated 4 dolly wheels so they were easy to move around the shop-with the engines mounted. Your engine weighs in at around 300 lbs.
 

interalian

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Yes, I know how much it weighs. Back in the '80s when I worked as a mechanic's assistant in a local marina, I was at a bankruptcy sale stripping outboards out of boats. One gung-ho guy (owner's son, and not the brightest bulb) was busy unbolting a 90 from the same boat I was busy stripping controls and instruments. He had the last bolt out before I realized what he was doing, then the motor fell off and pinned him on the floor. Picked the motor up off him then waited for the ambulance. Not a good day, but he lived.

And the engine stand is rated for 1000 pounds. And it has wheels. And it knocks down for storage. Win win.
 

glust

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Took my 1982 Johnson 140 off of the boat to replace the transom and do some motor work during the winter. Was able to bull dog it off of the boat with the help of three friends. Bought a block and tackle from tractor supply and hoisted it up in the garage until I could get it mounted on the stand I built. Probably looking at an engine lift or some other set-up to re-mount the motor. it is every bit of #300 and it is a very top heavy awkward weigh to try and move around.
 

flyingscott

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S4010340.JPG I use one I have a 70 hp on it right now. Here is what you need to know. With My 70 hp I can trim it up all the way and it is pretty stable if I take the lower unit off it will tip over. A V4 will be more top heavy so what I do is I will put a hoist on the powerhead to hold it up if I need to pull the lower or tip it up to work on it.. You may also want to put wedges in so the motor is straight up and down.
 

oldboat1

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maybe weld or bolt in a simple brace assembly in front for balance/safety. Like the idea of the two leg base in the one online for use with outboards, though probably not any more stable -- would try to use it for storage and roll-out testing.
 

interalian

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Mine looks just like the Jeg's link. And to help hang it straight, you can see I put the lower arms on the front face of the plate and the upper arms on the back. Gives an angle approximate to transom angle. I like the idea of an anti-tip brace on the front for tilt operations. Right now, I just need it up off the floor so I can pull the heads, bypass covers, flywheel etc.
 

interalian

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Started stripping the donor down. Pulled the bypass covers off and piston 1 has most of the top ring gone. The rest of the pistons have unbroken rings. All pistons are very loose in bore, but how loose is too loose? I think this pig has been repaired before.

Here are the heads. Hole 1 has minor ring dent damage, 3 has significant prior damage and evidence it was smoothed a bit for a prior repair. Port head gasket is blown between cylinders 2 and 4. Starboard gasket is OK.



Here's number 1 at bottom. Evidence of ringstrike at the exhaust port. Probably didn't help that the water deflecor is blocking flow, right?



Here's number 3 at bottom. No evidence of ring bits coming through the piston crown.



Here's number 2 at bottom. No evidence of damage on piston or head.



Here's number 4 at bottom. No evidence of damage on piston or head.



Got the bubble off. Center bolt (the really long one that's only accessible once the back cover is off) was very loose. Doesn't appear to be any evidence of gasket leakage or casting erosion.



Here's number 1 at top. Some small holes around the crown where the top ring bits came through.

 
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interalian

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My thought is to use the '79 140 donor crank case and heads for a rebuild, then pop the assembly on my '82 90 leg using all the electrics from the '82. Whoever was in the 140 previously made a big mess of the wiring. I know my wiring, lower unit, and T&T are in good shape. No idea about the leg on the 140, and I know the T&T is dead on the donor.
 

emdsapmgr

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The exhaust cover may not be perfectly flat to the crankcase. If you look at the lower left exhaust filler block, it appears somewhat blackened and oily-right where the gasket would sit. Some exhaust may be going around the gasket. The seal/gasket is perfect- where the gasket surface is shiny. Probably leaking where it is blackened. Good catch on the one bad/misplaced rubber water diverter.
 

interalian

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The exhaust cover may not be perfectly flat to the crankcase. If you look at the lower left exhaust filler block, it appears somewhat blackened and oily-right where the gasket would sit. Some exhaust may be going around the gasket. The seal/gasket is perfect- where the gasket surface is shiny. Probably leaking where it is blackened. Good catch on the one bad/misplaced rubber water diverter.

Yeah, I noticed that. Luckily it's just seepage, no erosion. I read somewhere the exhaust fillers and surrounding casting on the block are assembled then milled as an assembly, so I don't think I'll be taking the fillers off.

Any thoughts about how much slop the video shows in the piston? The other three are just as bad.

And that port side head. Use or replace? And are these good heads?
 
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emdsapmgr

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The exhaust filler blocks don't need to come off. You are correct-they are not cracked or deteriorating. You may find they will all seal up properly if you install new gaskets with some gasket sealer-then re-torque the exhaust cover after a couple of heat/cool cycles. The piston wobble is normal. These pistons will grow significantly once the engine heats up. What you are seeing is normal piston-to-liner clearance for a cold engine. For instance, you should be able to move the piston around enough to see down the top of the piston with enough clearance to see that the top ring is still in one pc. As this engine gets a ton of hours on it, an idling engine will develop a "piston slap" noise. It becomes quite noticeable between a high hour block and a fresh one. Even so, the piston slap noise does not indicate any imminent failure mode and usually is nothing to worry about. At high rpm's it's hard to hear the slap over the normal noise of the engine. Your pistons are likely replacement-non-factory, as factory pistons usually have a part number stamped onto the face. If the overhaul was recent and included an overbore, you may not hear much piston slap. These heads appear stock for the engine. Later (mid 80 heads) have a "bathtub" appearance to the firing face. The bathtub heads are the low compression heads-not what the racers want. Look for the head part numbers to be: 322864/865. Unique to the 79 140-solid high perf heads! The factory would say to throw out the dented head, but many owners just clean the head up and continue to run it. (hard to find a like-new replacement.)
 

interalian

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Cool, thanks! It's been a long time since I saw a 2-stroke in pieces, and my car experience would say that much piston slap was signs of a toasted motor. During tear-down I found some of the bolts on the exhaust chest loose, and lots of parts that had been dropped inside the case. I bet the prior repair was shade-tree.

I guess the heads run cool enough on these motors that gashed up combustion chambers don't affect like they would on a car - hot spots = ping. I'll jut knock off the high spots and use them. Being higher compression heads, should that dictate use of higher octane fuel?

While most of the rotating parts are the same between my '82 90 and the '79 140, I see a significant lack of tubing on the older one. Saw somewhere else about bypass lines. Did they make such a difference as to try and figure out a way to re-fit? The carbs and intake don't have the needed ports or locations but the bypass covers would probably swap (unless the shaping on the inside part is different between 90 and 140. Thoughts?
 

flyingscott

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Your heads can have dimples in them from damage. They cannot have any protrusions into the combustion chambers they have to be sanded smooth or piston damage will occur.
 

Faztbullet

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If your going to "rebuild" it mike the cylinders and bore it . From the looks of cylinders they are worn and PO likely just refreshed it with a hone and rings. Remember this motor is crank rated and is equal to a 115hp, the heads will be fine as the dings will fill in with carbon over time. You 90hp has a primer for choking and on some models that was injected thru transfer cover instead of carb, the 140 will have choke shutters.
 
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