4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

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jimmythefed

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I've had two stroke motors in the past (Evinrudes, Johnsons and Mercs), however, I just purchased a 2000 Honda 4-stroke. Unfortunately, the guy I bought the boat from does not have the manual. I assume winterizing procedures are the same as the 2 strokes... that is, changing the gear oil, adding stabilizer to the fuel tank, pulling the plugs and fogging the cylinders, etc. I also assume that I'll change the crankcase oil as well. I have a couple of questions: I've read at various sites that it's absolutely imperative to drain the carbs, as these Hondas have extremely small jets and they tend to gum up after a couple of months' storage. Is this necessary if I run stabilized gas through them for awhile? I've always heard that it's better to store them "wet". If I need to drain the bowls, is there a drain or do I have to remove them? Also, is the lower gearcase oil the same type as I've used through the years? Finally, what type of oil should be used when I change the oil in the crankcase? Is it OK to use a standard 5W-30? Or do I need a synthetic, or a type with special additives for a marine environment. This is my first experience with a four stroke and a Honda, and I don't want to go blindly into this. Oh yeah, one more thing, I assume that after I flush with fresh water (do I use muffs, or is there a flushing port I can hook a hose up to?), setting the tilt all the way down will suffice to drain any water from the cooling system. Thanks to any 4 stroke Honda owners or gurus out there who can help me out! <br />jshultz@comcast.net
 

MajBach

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Re: 4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

From what I can see, you are right on the mark with everything you have wrote. I have a 90 hp and I do exactly what you just described. The Honda manual states to store the motor with dry carbs. I use the cheapest oil I can find for the crankcase (it's just in there to displace water and prevent rust). THe motor does self drain in full trim down - although there is often some left inside the hub area if you're not careful. Each carb should have a slot screw on the bottom of the bowl for draining. If the 50 is set up like the 90, one of the carbs will have a 1/8 inch clear plastic tube coming from it and exiting near the pee-hole. Use this tube on a the little drain spout on each carb.(Hondon will no doubt verify this).<br />I also remove the prop, cover the spline with grease and throw a garbage bag over it. I also keep a few moth balls inside the engine cowling.
 

jimmythefed

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Re: 4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

Thanks for the reply.... just curious... anything special about the oil filter? A run-of-the-mill Fram or Purolator? BTW, what is the number of filter you use on your 90? -- Jim
 

MajBach

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Re: 4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

I always use Honda. Many will tell you that Fram makes the filters, which may be true but I don't think it has anything to do with quality. Specifications of any product are made to meet the buyers needs. I have seen cross sections of store-bought generic oil filters and even brand name ones next to Honda ones, and even to an untrained eye, there is a remarkable difference.<br />I have also read on this site I believe, that marine filters are different form their typical automotive ones.We're talking 3 or 4 bucks extra per year for a recommended oil filter vs. a generic one. What do you think?<br />Don't have the number handy, but I think it's in the manual. Hondon should know.<br />Hondon?
 

jimmythefed

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Re: 4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

Well, I kinda agree with you. If you're spending the time to do the work, do it right, and use the best materials. I don't know what the filter number is... it's not even in the owner's guide that I downloaded and printed out last night. Guess I'll have to wait to open it up and take a look. Any thoughts on oil? I usually use Castrol, Valvoline, or Pennzoil in my cars. The manual says any SG/SH rated... heck most all of 'em these days are rated at least SJ and most SL. Consensus is to drain the carb bowls as well... that's a new one for me... looks easy enough in the manual... but I'm kinda surprised, I thought carbs liked to be kept "wet"... oh well, I'll just follow the manual recommendations. Thanks for your reply! Jim.
 

Hawaiian

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Re: 4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

Jim, I looked for the part # on my filter but I could not find one. It is blue though and says Honda Genuine Parts on it. Like the others, I recommend using a Honda filter.
 

MajBach

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Re: 4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

You're right. I flipped through my manual and couldn't find a part #. Easy enough to find out - call a marina.<br />As for the oil, I can't really give you any advice. Just when I think I have made an informed decision concerning oil, someone comes along and makes me question it. So how do I decide on what oil to buy? All depends on my mood at the time.<br />Couple of other thoughts. When winterizing, I always add fuel stab. to the tank before anything. I then run my motor until I am certain the the new mix has made it to the engine and then I remove the fuel line and let it starve until it dies. This ensures no fuel is anywhere in the system and what tiny amount there might be will have stabilizer in it to prevent it from turning to gum. It also means that draining the bowls becomes unnecassary. However, I check it anyway as there always is a small amount in at least one or two.<br />I also change the oils and replace them with the cheapest motor oil I can find - just to displace moisture and air.Finally, give the engine a fog with the plugs out, crank it over for about 5 seconds, fog them again and replace the plugs hand tight - done!
 

Navigator

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Feb 6, 2001
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Re: 4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

OCJim,<br /><br />I'm sitting here holding a new still "shrink wrapped" filter in my hand.<br /><br />The Honda Part Number is 15400-PM3-004 The filter has "Toyo Roki MFG CO, LTD" on the side with a part number "9M31"<br /><br />If you find a suitable replacement, let us all know. I think this one cost around $16 from the dealer. I bought it last year as a spare.<br /><br />Nav :cool:
 

imported_erick

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Jul 5, 2006
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Re: 4-Stroke Honda 50 winterizing

You're right. I flipped through my manual and couldn't find a part #. Easy enough to find out - call a marina.<br />As for the oil, I can't really give you any advice. Just when I think I have made an informed decision concerning oil, someone comes along and makes me question it. So how do I decide on what oil to buy? All depends on my mood at the time.<br />Couple of other thoughts. When winterizing, I always add fuel stab. to the tank before anything. I then run my motor until I am certain the the new mix has made it to the engine and then I remove the fuel line and let it starve until it dies. This ensures no fuel is anywhere in the system and what tiny amount there might be will have stabilizer in it to prevent it from turning to gum. It also means that draining the bowls becomes unnecassary. However, I check it anyway as there always is a small amount in at least one or two.<br />I also change the oils and replace them with the cheapest motor oil I can find - just to displace moisture and air.Finally, give the engine a fog with the plugs out, crank it over for about 5 seconds, fog them again and replace the plugs hand tight - done!

Winterizing my 90 Honda for first time (Bought the boat last winter). I know a few said they change the oil using the cheapest they can find, does that mean you change the oil in the spring before first use?
 

racerone

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Ponder this-----If you were to buy a new carburetor off the shelf would it be full of gasoline ???------Best to store that motor with the carburetors EMPTY !
 
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