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Repower 60 Merc 2 stk. to 90 Honda 4 stk

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  • Repower 60 Merc 2 stk. to 90 Honda 4 stk

    We have a 1994 24' Starcraft Pontoon that's in solid shape. It's got a 1994 Mercury 2 stroke that runs well, but I've been wanting a little more power. I bypassed oil injection and I'm tired of mixing oil too, LOL. When launching a few weeks ago a guy offered me the 2013 Honda BF90 (fuel injection) from his 23' Starcraft Pontoon for $5k with only 50 hours, too good of a deal to pass up really. He is repowering to a 150 Honda so he's keeping all of his controls and electronics. Deal includes engine only.

    I'm planning to do the swap myself I've got experience with boats and cars. (Just finished an EFI installation on my 68 Camaro).

    So I've done some research and figured out most of what I think I need to know:
    - Top Mount Controls and Cables I've ordered HON-06240-ZW5-U40 and 2 cables 24920-ZY3-7100
    - Electronics - HON-39552-ZW7-025AH

    I've got a couple questions. Do these motors usually come with starter/battery cables or am I going to need to buy that harness? I'm not opposed to making my battery cables either since I have a hydraulic crimp tool.
    When looking at cables this part was recommended but I can't seem to find it on any parts diagram. HON-32392-881-002AH

    I've ordered a 2012 rigging manual from ebay so hopefully it comes this week and will help fill some gaps.

    I'm open to hear any tips, tricks or suggestions.

    Thanks,
    Steve

  • #2
    You're going to need the harness between the motor and control. You need more than just battery cables.

    Don't know about instrument compatibility. but the tach probably won't work.
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    • #3
      Originally posted by GA_Boater View Post
      You're going to need the harness between the motor and control. You need more than just battery cables.

      Don't know about instrument compatibility. but the tach probably won't work.
      That electronics kit comes with the ignition panel and a 25' 20 wire main harness. I've picked up a Faria/Honda tach and gauge harness.


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      • #4
        Can't you keep the two heavy battery cables from your old motor, or is it wrapped into the harness?
        "If it ain't broke....don't worry, 5 minutes with me and it will be!"

        2000 Angler 204 F - '00 Yamaha 150
        1994 Tremblay Custom Flats - '94 Merc 90 hp (SOLD)
        1988 Sunbird SWL 200 - Evinrude 130 hp Looper (SOLD)
        1996 Trophy 1802 - 120hp Force (SOLD)

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        • #5
          You're likely going to want a set of idiot lights for this motor. I believe they're in a cluster of 4 or possible 2 groups of 2.

          I've made several sets of battery cables using 6ga welding cable, which has really fine strands, so it's nice and flexible. One set needed to be nearly 10' long and worked fine on a 90.

          I generally get Honda OEM trim/tilt gauges so they match the sending unit as well.

          Wiring diagram is often located in the back of the owners manuals that are downloadable from Honda for free.

          Not really too much to rig the engine.

          Hope it all works out for you!

          Edit: Another thought, just for a heads up. There's the digital engine like the one you have, and an older "analog" engine (carbed). The tachs are different. A "digital" engine hooked up to an "analog" tach will read low. Same may be true with the tach you purchased (2 different Honda 90 settings).
          Last edited by ahicks; July 27th, 2020, 02:21 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ahicks View Post
            You're likely going to want a set of idiot lights for this motor. I believe they're in a cluster of 4 or possible 2 groups of 2.

            I generally get Honda OEM trim/tilt gauges so they match the sending unit as well.

            Hope it all works out for you!

            Edit: Another thought, just for a heads up. There's the digital engine like the one you have, and an older "analog" engine (carbed). The tachs are different. A "digital" engine hooked up to an "analog" tach will read low. Same may be true with the tach you purchased (2 different Honda 90 settings).
            Yeah as far as idiot lights I'm going to run this panel that has the check engine, oil level, temp and charging light: https://marine.honda.com/content/ima...-ZW7-020AH.jpg

            I'm looking into a tilt gauge too. Thanks.

            I'll make sure the tach in my "cart" is 4 cylinder compatible.

            Thanks!

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            • #7
              Yup, that's the panel! Careful with those LED's. I see a lot of broken ones, likely from people tugging on the wire harness. A loop in the harness right in back of that likely a good plan. I haven't seen any replacement parts for that thing...

              Note that the green oil light indicates the presence of oil pressure - you WANT that light to come on, and stay on when the engine is running!

              Not cheap are they.....

              It's not so much that the tach needs to be 4 cyl. compatible, it's about the number of pulses created during 1 rpm. The early and late 90's are different! Don't remember the specifics. Wait a second....

              From my notes, I THINK this is regarding Faria.....
              Carb engines should be set on 2, EFI (digital) on 1.

              Congrats on your new motor! -Al

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              • #8
                Thanks Al. I meant to type 4 stroke, but I suppose the ignition type changed when they went from carb to EFI. I'm looking at the Faria gauges mentioned in the Honda accessory guide from 2020 so hopefully it's got the selector switch. I pick up the engine on Aug 21 so hopefully I can get all this figured out before then so I can swap it all over that weekend.
                -Steve

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                • #9
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                  While you have it all apart, try and works some grease into the end of the steering cable! -Al

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