2002 Tohatsu 140 2 stroke

[CaptDuck]

I have the opportunity to purchase a 2002 Tohatsu 140 25” shaft. Person is asking 1200. Looking to put his on my 2000 Sea Pro 190cc max hp is 150. I currently have a johnson 130 Ocean Pro on it that came with the boat. I know the Tohatsu will be about 17 lbs lighter than my johnson. The Tohatsu has been sitting for about a year. It has good compression on all cylinders at about 160-165 psi and she does start and pump water. However the carbs will need to be cleaned. Does it sound like it is worth it? Comes with outboard, key Jd key switch, complete wiring harness and the digital Tohatsu gauge. That is for any input

 

[Sea Rider]

For $ 1200 would buy it, if you like round numbers fan 1 K in front of his face, you know money always talks. If seller accepts, go for a full maintenance to bring that nice 140 to life.

Happy Boating

 

[TOHATSU GURU]

Yes, but....It's old, so beware the money pit.

 

[CaptDuck]

TG...yeah i have thought about that. But at this point it can't be any worse than my Johnson 130...that keeps sucking money out of my pocket. I know people talk about lack of tohatsu dealer network. But i guess i am lucky and have one about 5-6 miles from my house. I have called and verified that they do work on them. I am thinking that if i put a couple of hundred $$$ in it and get all carbs cleaned, new water pump, new filters, lower unit oil and all plugs changed out that it will last me for a few more years. And of course give it some proper maintenance and loving! I like the simplicity of the design and the horsepower to weight ratio of this engine

 

[CaptDuck]

Here are some photos of the motor

 

[TOHATSU GURU]

I hear the same thing about the dealer network. It's not true. It's about the same size as Suzuki or Honda's network. Dealers are usually 20 to 25 miles apart in water rich areas. In small Podunk towns where populations are small you will usually find a Mercury dealer who carries something else too. So in those areas outboard dealerships are usually limited to two brands and those are usually Mercury and Yamaha..

 

[CaptDuck]

Yeah the dealer who works on Tohatsu's here also does Mercury. And it is a small town where he is located at, but plenty of water around and plenty of commercial fisherman. Well i have talked the guy down $100. So i think it might be a done deal!!!

 

[Sea Rider]

When buying second hand Tohatsu OB's for me that could turn into potential Pandora Boxes as won't know for sure how well previous owner mantained it, if flushed it regularly specially if worked on salt waters what usually like doing for my peace of mind and CC is :

Remove powerhead from base, remove water and exhaust covers, cylinder head, thermo. Remove carbon build ups on lower powerhead exhaust ports, piston heads, cylinder head, exhaust chamber and exhaust covers. Clean and smooth out all water passages, clean/replace internal anodes, trim tab. If thermo if in good shape clean it, if severely rusted install a new one. Clean all metal matting surfaces to be flat even, install new base, cylinder head and thermo gaskets.

Install new spark plugs. Check water pump liner and impeller condition. Service all carbs, check carb and timing advance synch, torque all bolts to factory specs. Once OB is running on muffs, barrel spray an overdose of Power Tuner, Carbon Remover through carbs throats to decarbon piston rings. Grease upper drive shaft ,prop shaft and swivel bracket.

This nice 140 OB is an interesting DIY project if sufficiently mechanically inclined...

Happy Boating

 

[CaptDuck]

Sea Rider... thanks for that to do list! It might be a little to much for a person like me. Who doesn’t know how to do some of that stuff. The smaller stuff like carbs, water pump and things like that I can handle. I would almost be afraid to take it apart and not be able to put it back together. Now I am not afraid to do it. Just wouldn’t want to mess anything else up.
I have already downloaded an owners manual and a service manual for the engine and have started reading about the procedure for the carb removal and rebuild as well as the water pump replacement procedure on this engine.
This I is a lot different from what I am used to being around. I am a Captain of a 100’ commercial fishing boat with a Caterpillar diesel engine and have had to do some work to it in the past. But always had the help of a mechanic there to guide me along.
but I would like to get the carbs, water pump, filters, plugs and lower unit oil changed as soon as I get it. Then install it on my boat and decarb and change anodes before the spring comes around for me here in Virginia

 

[Sea Rider]

Is that a M140A or M140A2 version ? Was fresh or salt water used ? There's a visible while line formation seen on side of cylinder head on pic 8. will need to retorque head gasket and lateral exhaust gaskets back to specs to avoid corrosion of mating surfaces later if not addressed. Would advise to clean and polish if needed all bullet connectors and polish all electrical ground connectors to avoid electrical components failures and work spot on.


Happy Boating

 

[CaptDuck]

It is an M140A2. Thanks for pointing what i should do. Maybe i should just go ahaed and replace those gasket clean it up and re-torque to specs. I have a parts book for the engine. So i can get part numbers. And i have a service manual that i can refer to for the torque specs and sequence

 

[Sea Rider]

It's important to know if OB was used on fresh or salt waters, if fresh all water passages will remain clean in comparison to salt water which will eventually reduce, narrow or clog water passages resulting for OB to work hotter as heated water passing through powerhead won't dissipate that fast as when all water paths are perfectly clean.

Generally speaking, gaskets can only be used once as are two sided coated gaskets that seals both mating surfaces once torqued to specs along heat when OB is put into operation. If plan replacing gsakets, go for new cylinder head, thermo and base gaskets, exhaust cover gasket is made of other material much thicker and solid, with care can be removed with a spatula, thin knife in one piece, cleaned and installed back. Old gsakets will be found dried, hardened so useless putting them back.

If going that route clean all visible water paths of the entire powerhead, it's a must do specially if salt water used. Anything you need to know, don't understand just ask. Love doing this type of restoration work.

Happy Boating

 

[CaptDuck]

sorry i have written in a while. I have been out at sea working. I am a commercial fisherman. I ordered up the parts today and should be here in a few days. I did start it up today and ran some fresh gas thru it. I was trying to figure out the wiring. Luckily i have the owners manual and service manual and was able to figure it all out!!!

 

[Sea Rider]

It's an excellent idea to shoot pics of every component including electrical wiring before they are disassembled.

Happy Boating

 

[CaptDuck]

Yeah I have been taking pictures. They came in handy with the wiring. But all good now. Been cleaning all the electrical connections while I am waiting on parts. Luckily it is not nice enough to go boating yet! Want to get it all fixed up and mounted on my boat before the season starts.

 

[CaptDuck]

Well I got all the parts in. Just been real busy with work! I did clean the carbs already. Not that hard. Now I am trying to do the water pump. But I am problems getting the lower unit off. I took off all 6 bolts (3 on each side) then the plate underneath above the prop. But I do not see another bolt like it shows in the service manual. Now since it is a UL 25” motor do I also have to take off the 5 extension piece to get this lower unit off?

 

[pvanv]

I think there's a 7th bolt, in the back.

 

[CaptDuck]

I will look again. But I didn’t notice any other bolts. I will take some pictures later today. Maybe you guys will see something that I don’t

 

[CaptDuck]

Well I got the lower unit off. It doesn’t have a 7th bolt. Instead what it has is a stud that goes from the 5 inch UL (25” shaft)extension piece into the lower unit itself. It came off with the help of a BFH and a piece of 2x4. I discovered why it was overheating the other day when I took it out for a test spin. Part of the impeller broke and was lodged up in the water pipe! Glad I saw that. And glad I got the new pump on. Will take it out for a test spin hopefully tomorrow.

 

[Lightwin 3]

Good eye catching that impeller piece!

If nothing else, I would "decarb"it with the product listed above.

Do it with the old spark plugs as the process tends to ruin them.