1967 55 HP chrysler model #5573 seals and water pump questions

[Dray2dj]

I have recently purchased a 1967 55HP chrysler outboard model #5573 and am in the process of restoring it. So far I have cleaned and regapped the points, tore apart and cleaned the carb, replaced the spark plugs, ignition key etc. I got her to start and it runs and sounds very good. Was idling a little high but I got that adjusted. I have no water flow to the powerhead. I tore the lower unit off and this is what I have. I have a waterpump that I have been unable to locate anywhere. It is a three bolt water pump, everything I have been able to find is a 4 bolt or 6 bolt. The impellar had 2 out of the 10 splines broke and they were stuck in the water tube. I cleared them out, blew compressed air through the inlet tube, through the thermostat, and through the exhaust and everything where i blew air to had no restriction so I know the lines aren't plugged. I ordered a new impellar and installed it. Put everything back together, ensured the impellar was locked on the driveshaft keyway, and reinstalled the lower unit. Still no water flow. Any clues?? I'm at a loss. Keep this in mind I removed the thermostat just to make sure it wasn't stuck causing the issue. Also keep this in mind, when I pulled the lower unit off the water inlet tube came out with it. It is a copper tube. I found where it goes back into to enter the powerhead and reinstalled it. It did not feel real tight but did stay in place. Is there a seal that is suppose to go there, if not is siliconing it a bad idea? Where can I find seals for the drive shaft that sits below the water pump plate going into the gear case housing, and the drive shaft seal for the water pump. When I tore the water pump off, it did not have a seal on the drive shaft above the water pump, just below it where it goes into the gear case. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Dray2dj]

Re: 1967 55 HP chrysler model #5573 seals and water pump questions

also can anybody explain to me exactly how the cooling system works. I know the water pump impellar impells the water up through the output side of the water pump and through the inlet tube going to the power head but where does it go from there. I have a clear tube that runs from the port off of the thermostat to a port thats mounted on the side of the powerhead) when I take the garden hose and run water through either port water comes out the other port and also the exhaust. I'm confused on what the water does after it enters the powerhead cooling channel.

 

[Karla45]

Re: 1967 55 HP chrysler model #5573 seals and water pump questions

There is a sticky on this board that has step by step instructions for changing impeller, it is very good you should read. It is at the top of the page under Force and Chrysler questions. Also, there are videos on another site that you could check out also:

http://www.themarinedoctor.com/videos/Mercwp1.wmv
http//:www.themarinedoctor.com/videos/Mercwp2.wmv


http://www.themarinedoctor.com/waterpump.wmv

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1967 55 HP chrysler model #5573 seals and water pump questions

On the '67 Chrysler, the water pick-up is a perforated plate behind the exhaust snout. This plate covers a large groove in the casting that leads to a brass tube swaged into the casting itself. This tube runs up at about a 45 degree angle to the water pump inlet. The water pump is a positive displacement/centriugal pump and pumps water up the brass tube in the leg. Under the powerhead there is a "base" gasket which seals exhaust and water. The water enters the bottom of the powerhead through this base gasket and flowe first around the exhaust chest then the cylinder jackets. Fron there it flows through the plastic tube to the thermostat on the head, down the head, and into the leg where it will exit from both the exhaust snout and the idle releif vent in the back of the leg.

If you are not getting water to the block, first check that the perforated plate is not clogged. Next check that the brass tube at an angle is not perforated, broken, or missing. Check that the pump is down on the steel plate tight and not leaking.

NOW: You have a smopking gun. The brass tube that came out and you replaced is held at the top by a rubber grommet. It should be a relatively tight fit and should not come out easily. If you have a really bright flashlight, look up the leg and see that the tube is not kinked and is seated tin the grommet correctly. At the pump end, there should be a white plastic adapter that plugs into the pump outlet and slides over the brass pipe with a close fit.

If your engine is a long shaft version with the 5 inch leg extension, be certain that the 5 inch extension pipe is on the pump end of this water delivery tube.

If all this is well, the next step would be to remove the exhaust chest cover and see if corrosion and sand has settled in the water passage, blocking it.

 

[Dray2dj]

Re: 1967 55 HP chrysler model #5573 seals and water pump questions

Thank you for the quick responses. Frank I blew compressed air up through the brass intake line while plugging the exhaust and the air blew out both ports in which the clear tube connects between which tells me there isn't anything obstructing it. I looked up inside with a flash light and it doesn't appear that there was a rubber grommet. Also like I said before the drive shaft seal that goes on the top side of the water pump was missing when I tore into this project. I know its going to leak a little water without that seal but even with that missing I should be able to have some flow through the power head right? Also have you ran into these style pump bodies, the one that only has 3 mounting holes and do they still make them? The pump body is in good shape and so are the steal plates, I just don't know what seal kits to buy because of not being able to find the right pump body. Also yes it is a long shaft and the 5 inch extension is on the tube.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1967 55 HP chrysler model #5573 seals and water pump questions

Yeah! My '67 has the water pump held on with three flat head screws. By 1970 they had changed to a 4 bolt pattern. I do like the 4 bolt pattern better because they have bosses on the outside of the leg. If you snap a bolt, you can just drill it out and through and use a longer bolt and nut

If you need another pump body, contact franzmarine@aol.com. he should also have the seals for you.
Even without the top seal, the close fit of the impeller in the body should allow delivery of water.

 

[Dray2dj]

Re: 1967 55 HP chrysler model #5573 seals and water pump questions

i appreciate everyones advice and i wanted to let everyone know that I replaced the water pump and the thermostat and everything worked well. I took the boat out saturday over labor day weekend and the trip was a success. I purchased the boat, the motor, and the trailer together for $100.00. I got the motor up and running thanks to advice on here and I redid the flooring of the boat. The boat did not take on any water and the motor ran like a champ. I ran into a few complications while out on the water, little adjustments here and there with the throttle, the shift link, and the carberator but nothing my step dad and I couldn't handle. For a 1967 chrysler valiant boat and chrysler motor, that has sat doing nothing since 1999, to have it out on the water without taking on water and to have very few minor complications was a successful trip in my book. thanks again to everyone for helping out.