69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

BF

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Hi,<br /><br />I'm not sure if that is what it's called, but it is the little spring sort of clip that slides over/around the motor end of the throttle cable to lock the cable end onto the little ball-joint piece bolted to the rear starboard side of the block. Know the thingy I mean?<br /><br />I found a very hard to see exploded diagram (thanks again eurolarva), and found a part number, FA58976-1 that is the "throttle connector" for ~$27... I have one of those on the way to me via a local dealer.<br /><br />I suspect this piece is the whole end piece that gets threaded onto the throttle cable. Hopefully it also includes the little spring clip that slides over it (can't tell in the picture).<br /><br />Anyone know what I'm talking about, or what it is properly called, or whether they're available separately from the $27 piece? It looks like a <$1 thingy. Dealer guy was nice enough, but didn't know anything. I can probably bodge something up to hold the cable on in the mean time.<br /><br />Thanks...
 

scotiany

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Go to your local library and see if they have the Seloc manual for Chrylser. Chapter 12 has very detailed instructions and illustrations for the Remote control cable system.
 

eurolarva

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Are you talking about the very end of the cable that has the nut holding it onto the bracket or are you talking the flip over part that is screwed down. Maybe this picture will help<br />
www.myfishingpictures.com
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BF

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Yes, the picture helps a lot thanks. I can tell that your cable end is different than mine. On mine, there isn't a sliding sleeve thing (circled) held by a nut. Instead it has a springy sleeve that slides over and clips around the "neck" on the ball joint thing that the cable end sits on. I think you said yours was a '74? I'd guess that this upgraded cable end thing is to replace the spring clip thing that appears to be a weak link in my set up. Hopefully the part I have on order is like yours and interchangeable with mine (just threads onto the cable).<br /><br />
45chrysler_2.jpg
<br /><br />many thanks for the input!
 

eurolarva

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Mine is actually older then yours. Mine is 1967. The linkage piece you circled on mine is threaded with a locking nut on it with no spring. Pretty simple device. On the end of it is a small screw that goes to the mounting bracket and is held in place by a nut.
 

BF

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Hmmm... on mine the "small screw that goes to the mounting bracket and is held in place by a nut." is actually a little ball joint that is secured by a nut. The cable end sits over that ball joint and is normally held on it by a little clip (that is wrecked/broken on mine). The cable end on my motor looks quite a bit longer than what I circled on the pict... we'll see, but I'm not sure what the part on order will be.<br /><br />Thx
 

BF

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Got the parts today... connector piece looks like it will work. It's different than both my old one, and eurolarva's... it is about a 2 1/2" piece that threads onto the throttle cable and then has a spring loaded sleeve that slides forward and backward to lock it onto the ball joint. Much sturdier than my old one... I'd hope so for $36 !! Looks very much like the connector on the end of the shift cable in the pict.<br /><br />I also got an impeller.... I'm gonna look for a manual this week, but in case I don't find one in time, where do you disconnect the shift linkage on these guys? Near the motor, or is there a connector under the mid section cover?<br /><br />Oh, and eurolarva... mine is a 67 also... I double checked on the weekend. Funny that 2 of the same year have different cable ends. <br /><br />Thx
 

eurolarva

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Is your model 45781? The motor leg covers are removed by removing 6 bolts and nuts. You will see the lower and upper shift linkages connected by a nut that is about 2 inches long. One side of this nut has reverse threads. When you remove the four bolts holding the lower unit to the motor leg leave one bolt on with at least two turns of thread remaining on the screw. It is easier to do this with two people but one can do it easy enough. I would find something soft to lay under the lower unit and enough wood to build to the bottom of the skeg. Untighten the lock nut next to the two inch nut. With a wrench slowly start turning the nut till the lower unit starts going down. I cant remember if it is clockwise or counter clockwise. When the linkage is tight remove the last bolt holding it onto the motor leg and while holding the lower unit with your left hand continue turning the two inch nut till it separates from one of the lingages. Lower unit should come right off.<br /><br />The manual does not tell you how to readjust this linkage. Here is my way. Spin the 2 inch nut all the way up on the upper linkage. line up water tube to the pump and raise the lower unit till the nut on the upper linkage just touches the lower linkage. Turn nut till it connects. If lower unit does not go up all the way either the water tube is not seated correctly or the splines from the driveshaftdo not line up with the splines in the powerhead. turning prop (if it is in forward or reverse) or turning the powerhead clockwise slightly will help line up the splines(make sure spark plugs are disconnected and battery is also disconnected for safety) Once the splines line up and water tube is seated correctly you keep turning the two inch nut till the lower unit comes flush with the motor leg. Attach the four bolts and nuts to secure the lower unit onto the motor leg.<br /><br />Adjusting the shift linkage. Put motor in neutral. If it wont go you will have to turn the two inch nut till you can find neutral. With shifter in neutral keep turning the two inch nut till you feel the prop able to spin freely in both directions with no clicking. When you have found this point have someone slowly adjust shifter to forward and reverse to make sure you are able to achieve both. You will feel the cluctch engage the gears as you turn the prop by hand. When you are done you want to have at least two full turns of thread on both sides of the two inch nut then secure the lock nut. Test once again. <br /><br />The nut adjustment is wierd at first but you will get the hang of it.<br /><br />Email me at ralgoetz@comcast.net. I have some illustrations you might find handy.
 

BF

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Hi again,<br /><br />I'm not sure of the model number... it's a short shaft, electric start, remote model...<br /><br />email is on the way about the linkage.<br /><br />Many thanks!
 

BF

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Followup....<br /><br />Well... went to the lake last weekend and did some wrenchin'... Impeller replacement went perfectly, no snags (thanks again eurolarva)... shift linkage nut was easy to adjust (I counted the turns of exposed thread above and below it, and adjusted it to be the same after, was perfect.<br /><br />I also replaced the seal/gasket on the shift pivot screw (which I knew was bad and leaky). When I had the LU off, I drained the oil and laid it on it's side, then I took out the shift pivot screw, put new gasket on it and carfully reinstalled. (Careful not to jiggle/bump lower unit in the meantime). It took 10 seconds and went back in perfectly and LU shifts like it should. Whew. I also put a glob of marine silicone over that screw head to keep it from getting loosened by mistake. (thanks to whoever suggested that on another thread... it's a great idea).<br /><br />The throttle cable end that I bought worked perfectly... way better than what was on there before. It made me think the original one was incorrect. I think this motor might have been rigged using 2 shift cable ends back when it was new.<br /><br />Also, I found and fixed a loose gas line going to the bottom of the block of the motor... I don't know that it affected the running, but it can't help.<br /><br />Followed up by tweaking the idle mixture a tad, and motor is running great. Took just under 2 hours to do the whole thing (managed to finish before the pancakes were ready) :) <br /><br />FIL was at the lake for the first time this year (having health issues), and was very pleased to see his old boat running as good as it ever has. Nice to see him taking the grandkids for rides in it.<br /><br />Thanks for the help folks.
 

eurolarva

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Glad to hear it is running sweet. When I got my chrysler I hated the thing and now that everything is working right I love it. It is not the prettist machine out there but it runs a lot better then a lot of outboards I see at the landing.<br /><br />Another issue you may not be seeing that happened to me. Gas trails behind the motor. It used to drive me crazy not to mention embarrasing. The late 60s chryslers did not have a re circulating system sometimes refered to as puddle valves. When the gas hits the hot motor it condenses and drips down. Chrysler came up with drains that drain this stuff down the motor leg and back into the lake. It created a much better idling machine however is nasty for the lake. You will see these hoses on the port side below the starter solinoid where it tees off to a hose going to the kingpin. I drilled a 5/16 inch hole in the bottom cowl and duct taped a small plastic bottle to the hose. After each outing I loose about 2 tablespoons of gas oil mix into this bottle. At least no more gas flow into the lake. Looks kind of dorky but works well.
 

BF

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

thanks for the tip (again). I had noticed that it seemed a bit more oily/gassy than my other OB's. Annoying since we swim at the dock right beside it. I think that line was the one that was loose and disconnected on mine. I think the gas/oil was just puddling in the bottom of the cowl and dripping out. Maybe I'll try the bottle thing.<br /><br />Another Q:<br /><br />When fine tuning the idle, I noticed a big change when I put the cowling on. I got the impression that it was starving for air somewhat. I noticed that there is no hole/breathing vent or anything in the cowl, and there doesn't appear to be one in the engine pan either. How do these things breath properly?? I know it's getting air from somewhere, cause it runs really well mid and high throttle settings. There are some small holes in the pan, but since the idle is so sensitive to the cowl, it makes me think maybe air flow is somewhat restricted.... <br /><br />So, the Q:<br /><br />Is yours the same way? and where do these things breath from? I was tempted to remove the rubber boots around the throttle and shift cables, but they're in good shape, so I hate to monkey with 'em.<br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br />--edit---<br /><br />and no, I don't think there is an exhaust leak under the cowl... at least as far as I can tell.<br /><br />----
 

eurolarva

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

Front port side of the motor on just below the cowling there are three holes. Your air is coming from inside those holes. I replaced the exhaust gaskets on the port side on mine and could not believe the carbon build up inside and around the pistons. I worked on that crap for 2 weeks soaking it with rags and Marvel Mystery oil. Sea foam would not even touch that stuff. I also replaced the lower exhaust gaskets. One that the powerhead sits on and the one under the king pin. I bought a gasket kit online that had all the gaskets for about 35 bucks. Not a project I recommend. I broke three of the exhaust gasket bolts and had to JB Weld and re tap. Had lots of problems getting the gasket plates to seal without water spraying out the screws. However after doing this the motor idles a lot better On mine it dont matter if the cowling is on or off anymore. I would start with decarbing the motor with either seafoam deep creep or seafoam mixed heavly in a small gas can.<br /><br />The adding a small plastic bottle is pretty simple. Just disconnect the fuel line going to the kinpin and add a new longer line. Drill a 5/16 inch hole in the lower cowling and cut the fuel line so it hangs out about 3 inches.
 

BF

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Re: 69 45 hp Chrysler - throttle cable retaining clip (?)

I did decarb the motor last year with seafoam in 1 gallon of gas. It's had only a few hours use on it since then. Despite lots of smoke, I didn't notice much change in how it ran after the decarb. It still had a rough idle, and stalled when going into gear... The stuff I've done lately has made a big difference. I think it was running a bit hot, the idle was set too low, and the idle mixture also wasn't spot on. I'd say now it's almost right... but the idle's still not perfect. I'll try a bit more tweaking this weekend.<br /><br />thanks again.
 
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