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Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

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  • Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

    Hello all, I have been working on my 1976 55 HP Chrysler. After slowly working out the bolts on my Exhaust plate, one of the heads snapped off. I had been using Marvel Mystery Oil Lubricant. The bolt was coming out but I guess I put too much pressure on it. I didn't think I was but it obviously was enough to break it. The end of the bolt is very slightly below flush with the surface. It is a 3/8" bolt. What do I do from here? I have never done this before so please give me step by step help. I've read some previous posts about something called an "EZ Out" but I don't know what that is. Would this be a good option or perhaps something else? The bolt is in an accessible place so that is positive at least.Thank you for the help.Shane Williams
    1971 Starcraft 16' Super Sport restoration.

  • #2
    Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

    Well ok.Since it is broke-off BELOW flush, your best bet is to get a welder to try to tack-on a shaft you can grab a hold of. Is the plate off?If not, go ahead and remove it,in case any more break. Don't feel bad. It happens 9 outta 10 times, and is why I gave you the procedure. But even after every precaution has been taken, it can still happen The shaft of the bolt was probably much thinner than a new one,due to corrosion.If you have removed the port plate, what did the ports look like? Any sign of discoloration on the block or plate surfaces, or any sign of leaking-by the gaskets?If they are relatively clean, you aren't done yet (with the engine troubles).EZouts werk great, but you must drill a hole in the center of the stud for it to grip. This is next to impossable to do, at the same time, keeping the drill bit centered in the stud, as oposed to drifting-off into the softer block (yuk).
    "Did you hear about the guy whose whole left side was cut off? He's all
    right now."

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    • #3
      Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

      No, the plate is not off yet. I have one bolt on the bottom that I can barely get to budge. I've soaked it down with the lube and am going to let it set over night. I hate for that one to break because it is in a very bad location. The broken one is on the top. Let me ask you this, will the plate pull off with the broken bolt or is the plate threaded? The other bolts that I have removed are very corroded. I know the exhaust plate has never been removed because the white paint was perfect on all the bolt heads. Any good advice to getting the bottom bolt removed? Do I need to buy a torch or something? I don't have access to a welder of any kind. If I drill a hole in the bolt, what do I need? Any special kind of drill bit? Do they make drill bits that go counter-clockwise? How big of a hole do I drill?Thank you,Shane
      1971 Starcraft 16' Super Sport restoration.

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      • #4
        Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

        The fact that these bolts are corroded tells me there has been some exposure to water, and probably salt water, where there should be none.I agree.By all means, take your time on the remaining bolt!!try turning it in slightly,and keep it soaked. Tap it gently,to get the blaster into threads as best you can. If it takes you a week to get that last one out, it takes you a week. The plate is held-on by the bolts,and does not thread-on to the block.These have a torque sequence,just as the head bolts do.The drill bit required is an ordinary metal-drilling bit. The trick is keeping it centered in the hard bolt shaft material,and not having it drift-off into the side,where the aluminum block is. I would take this boat and all to the nearest machine shop, and ask them to extract it before I attempted to drill and EZout it.Besides, one you have the plate off, you just might have enough of a stud there to grab with visegrips. If not, it should be an easy task for a welder and about 15minutes of his time.The heat he uses will also help. Be sure to ground-out the CD box before any arc is used tho, lest you smoke it.
        "Did you hear about the guy whose whole left side was cut off? He's all
        right now."

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

          The ease-outs are counter-clockwise.
          "Did you hear about the guy whose whole left side was cut off? He's all
          right now."

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

            If it had been turning before it broke off, a drill bit may get a bite and run it back into the threads enough to add more oil, finish drilling to accept an easy out, then remove. You do not want to break off the easy out, as that would leave a broken metal piece in there harder than a drill bit.Here are some websites dealing with broken bolt I found by using google.com http://web.dimebank.com/tech/BrokenBolt.html http://www.gis.net/~manjo/removing_b...tuds_bolts.htm http://216.117.154.182/autorestorationtips.htm http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint116.htm http://www.truebite.com/remove/

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            • #7
              Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

              There are some better penetrating oils than M.M.O. Try some stuff called "PB Blaster". I think you can find it your local NAPA or other auto supply store. Let it soak for a day or so if necessary.g'luck & c/6Hooty

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              • #8
                Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

                Yes, Blaster is great stuff!
                "Did you hear about the guy whose whole left side was cut off? He's all
                right now."

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

                  i have used ez-outs made by craftsman & other brands they tend to be brittle and break off. leaving you with a mess. they are ok for non- corroded bolts/studs but you still have to be very careful.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

                    you can buy a left hand drill bit so if the bolt comes loose it will back it out

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

                      Same thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago, BUT on a much newer motor.In both cases I had about 1/4" to grap with a visegrip but the first one still broke.A friend who works on motors took a center hole punch and managed to get a score in the center of the screw and he drilled it out using progressively larger drill bits. It worked well. We cleaned up the threads on the inside using a "tap" for that exact size threads. The second bolt came out by holding with the visegrips and using tons of heat from a propane torch. Kept it there a good 10 minutes and even as we slowly rocked the bolt back and forth with great patience. We also kept soaking it with PB Blaster.Worse case if you have to drill her out and you ruin the threads is to install a HELICOIL. These require you to drill out the area slighly larger than what you have now, and insert the Helicoil with gives you threads again.Good Luck and email me if I can help in any other way. (Email : jmetaxas@aol.com)John from Madison, CT

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                      • #12
                        Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

                        I went this evening and found some PB Blaster. I sprayed down the broken bolt as well as the bottom one that is stuck. I'll see if she'll budge any tomorrow. I also bought a center hold punch and an EZ out. I'm going to take it slow and easy. I tried to find a left handed drill bit but the place I was told that had one was closed. I may try to get one tomorrow.Thank you all for your help. I will keep you updated on what happens.Shane
                        1971 Starcraft 16' Super Sport restoration.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

                          Good Morning & Good Luck Turtle,As has already been posted, BE CAREFUL WITH THE EZ-Out. They are VERY hard and VERY brittle. Also, they are tapered. As you apply torque, they have a tendency to want to expand the diameter of the captioned bolt shaft thus adding to the siezing problem.I have had frequent problems with them BREAKing off in the the bolt shaft. This is a BIG problem. The last time this happened, I ruined 7 end mills and same number of hardened drill bits to auger out the broken EZ-out. The only good news was that in the process of drilling out the broken EZ-out, I also got the broken bolt.I would listen to 12Footer. Earlier in this thread, he suggested taking the entire rig to a machine shop. This might be a tad of an expence up front but, in my never-to-be-humble opinion, will be well worth the savings in aggravation should your EZ-out break.Good Luck!

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                          • #14
                            Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

                            take your time.if you mess it up Johns idea of using a Helicoil is great. i've use them working on helicopters in the pass, they are strong and bring the bolt size back to orignal.

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                            • #15
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                              Re: Broken Bolt on Exhaust Plate

                              If you are going to do this yourself, I have to again reiterate how important the application of heat was.You will NOT melt the aluminum, but it will expand faster than the steel bolt. The slight difference in the expansion rate might give you enough to turn the bolt out.I am assuming by the way that you are taking the exhaust plate off to get to the bolts. If it's still on, the heat will be fruitless.John from Madison, CT

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