1988 125hp Force motor build

[Sandy-man]

After 4 months of learning how to tear down and check every part of this motor to make sure all is good, I am now ready to build it. I've had to replace the cylinder block and find new standard size pistons & rings, took a while to find them.

I now have all the gasket surfaces clean and ready to put this old girl together. I see a huge array of gasket sealants on the market. What is the best sealant to use on the port gaskets, recirc and carb reed gaskets? I know the stuff I had to clean off was extremely difficult to get off but with lots of elbow grease and a few choice words it all finally came off. Unless I miss my guess, this is what I want from the sealant I will use, whatever it will be.

Any suggestions? Also, any helpful tips for a first time outboard builder would be great and appreciated.

 

[Nordin]

I always use Permatex seal gasket the one with a paintbrush in the cap.
Use it at gaskets and at the crank case block split.
Always worked.

 

[jerryjerry05]

P/N 508235
Johnson Evinrude Gasket Sealing Compound.
What I've used for years.

Along with the "spaghetti seal" I use Black RTV silicone
at the edges and corners and at the top and bottom crank
seal. Just a thin line next to the spaghetti.
Then heavier at the crank seal(you only get one chance) to
seal this spot right.

The gaskets at the reeds, no sealer needed, just make sure you
have the screws tuorqed right. And use the staggered method
when tightening.

​​​​​​​If you need the torques let me know and I'll dig them out and
​​​​​​​post them???

 

[Sandy-man]

P/N 508235
Johnson Evinrude Gasket Sealing Compound.
What I've used for years.

Along with the "spaghetti seal" I use Black RTV silicone
at the edges and corners and at the top and bottom crank
seal. Just a thin line next to the spaghetti.
Then heavier at the crank seal(you only get one chance) to
seal this spot right.

The gaskets at the reeds, no sealer needed, just make sure you
have the screws tuorqed right. And use the staggered method
when tightening.

If you need the torques let me know and I'll dig them out and
​​​​​​​post them???

Thank you, Jerry. I think my book should have all the torque specs. Looks like the most challenging part will be putting the connecting rods into the new Wiseco pistons and then installing the assembly onto the crank shaft. But I think I'm up to the challenge.

​​​​​​​I appreciate your help.

 

[Sandy-man]

I just finished putting my new Wiseco pistons and connecting rods together, took me 2 hours. The first one was the hardest, figuring out the best way to install the new circlips was the hardest part about it. The first piston took probably an hour. I finally found that using the old wrist pin to push the circlips into place worked like a gem. And removing the old one so I could get my connecting rods out was a bit of a chore too, but my hook nose needle nose pliers worked great.

Question: I used transmission assembly grease to hold the needle bearings in place while pushing the wrist pin into place. Should I clean this grease out with WD-40 or something similar? Not sure if this grease was a good choice but it sure did hold the bearings real well. Attached is a pic of the grease I used in case you're wondering. Also a pic of the needle nose pliers I found to be very valuable for circlip removal, it was a breeze with these as the radius of the tip of the pliers fit perfectly into the half circle cutout.

 

[Nordin]

I do not think that grease will harm anything, but if you are worried flush/clean it with fuel.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The wrist pin/piston gets real hot and the grease will melt
fairly quick.

The assembly grease recommended washes away/melts quick
allowing the fuel to lube the bearings.
Your grease shouldn't be a problem.

 

[The Force power]

No name (petroleum based) Vaseline works also