Wet around enrichment valve where it meets carb bowl?

dahlbergdriver

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1998 Force 90HP

Issue I've been having is that the motor runs great, except when I go from throttle to neutral -- 9/10 times it dies. Starts back up fine, but then I shift into gear, go a bit, and then back off into neutral -- dead.

I've been going through the carb and timing tutorial I found on here and I noticed that I have some fuel/wetness coming from the spot where the enrichment valve comes into the carb bowl. Could this be the cause? Also, the guy in the video (which is great btw) says that vibration will cause the enrichment value to open and close -- I noticed the valve isn't on very tight, so I tightened it.

Thanks for the input.
 

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jerryjerry05

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RPM's in N on the hose 1150-1200
Running, in gear in the water 750-800

IF there's gas then there's a leak??
Ethanol and fuel additives or carb soaks can melt the hoses
and make them leak.
 

dahlbergdriver

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Thanks guys. Here’s a couple videos of the issue I was able to capture today. Dies when going into neutral. Second vid shows it starts back up no problem, but then cuts. Actually as I’m typing this from the boat, it’s been in N for 5 min. Without cutting out. Love motors.
https://youtu.be/YZXxZBrx1hM
https://youtu.be/g7VtgIjlfJ0

also, doesn’t really matter, but it’s on a 1998 Bayliner Trophy 1703.
 

Redbarron%%

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Since the timing makes a LOT of difference at idle make sure the idle timing is at 9* and of course the WOT as specified as well.
 

dahlbergdriver

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Newbie question alert - where/how do I hook up a tachometer to check RPMs? Any suggested brands/tools? Thanks.
 

dahlbergdriver

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Update: I turned the idle screw 1/8 of a turn clockwise. I just took it out again to test under load and it only stalled twice (out of like 20 times I went from throttle to N). I couldn’t be more excited. I’m planning on turning it 1/16 more to try for 100% no stalls. Thanks all.
 

jerryjerry05

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They sell, Tiny Tach or it's knockoff.
Just hook it up and instant RPM's

IF??? the idles too high?? you can damage the lower.
When shifting, use a swift, direct motion to put it in gear.
Too slow and it can grind the edges off the dog and gear.
 

The Force power

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Update: I turned the idle screw 1/8 of a turn clockwise. I just took it out again to test under load and it only stalled twice (out of like 20 times I went from throttle to N). I couldn’t be more excited. I’m planning on turning it 1/16 more to try for 100% no stalls. Thanks all.

Make sure you air/fuel mixture screw set at NO LESS then one full turn out from lightly seated
 

dahlbergdriver

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Make sure you air/fuel mixture screw set at NO LESS then one full turn out from lightly seated

What do you mean “fully seated?” Between the nut and the screw, there’s a lot of thread there (please see pic, screw and nut I am adjusting is at end of red line).

I got greedy and adjusted the screw another 1/16th, actually made things worse, tried to go back to earlier screw position, and still finicky, and now I’m back to square one. I should’ve quit while ahead.

Can someone confirm my understanding of the idle screw is accurate? Turning the idle screw in, or clockwise, brings up the RPM’s because the more you turn the screw, the more it pushes the throttle cable forward, which means the more you’re opening the butterfly valves in the carbs, thereby leaning out your air/fuel mixture — which is a good thing because: Too much fuel = too rich = dead engine.

you guys are great, btw. Having this resource is very helpful. Thank you.
 

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Nordin

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Dahlbergdriver the screw you pointing at is the idle set screw, but "may the force" is talking about the air/fuel mixture screws.
At your engine they are at the top of each carb and sitting in a 45 dgr angle. The screw has a spring which is around and the spring tension makes it not to turn by it self from vibrations.
Turning the screw CW make the mixture leaner, CCW make the mixture richer.
Starting point of the setting is about 1 1/8 out from lightly seated and as "may the force" says not lesser then 1 turn out.
Your issue can be that the carbs air/fuel setting are to lean.
Check each setting by turning the screw in and then back out at least 1 turn.
Maybe you have to set them about 1 1/8 - 1 1/4.
Richer setting of the air/fuel mixture screw will decrease the RPM.
After you have adjusted the air/fuel mixture you set the idle with the idle screw 750-800 RPM in gear in the water.
 

dahlbergdriver

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Dahlbergdriver the screw you pointing at is the idle set screw, but "may the force" is talking about the air/fuel mixture screws.
At your engine they are at the top of each carb and sitting in a 45 dgr angle. The screw has a spring which is around and the spring tension makes it not to turn by it self from vibrations.
Turning the screw CW make the mixture leaner, CCW make the mixture richer.
Starting point of the setting is about 1 1/8 out from lightly seated and as "may the force" says not lesser then 1 turn out.
Your issue can be that the carbs air/fuel setting are to lean.
Check each setting by turning the screw in and then back out at least 1 turn.
Maybe you have to set them about 1 1/8 - 1 1/4.
Richer setting of the air/fuel mixture screw will decrease the RPM.
After you have adjusted the air/fuel mixture you set the idle with the idle screw 750-800 RPM in gear in the water.

Thanks for the clarification. Can you guys check this out and confirm I’m doing it right? https://youtu.be/ST9Rs9PoZp0

Editing because I realized I’m basically putting them back in the same position they were in prior. Should I go CCW/out another 1/8?
 
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dahlbergdriver

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Redbarron%%

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# 6 can be done out of the water with the plugs wires off and grounded and then recheck when you get into the water.
 

The Force power

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As Redbarron said;

This can be done without water AND have all plugs grounded.

but then;
Bypass the neutral-switch, put the lever in full throttle
Make sure you have fully charged GOOD battery to work with!

This is called static timing

Adjust timing to 28 degrees BTDC due to RPM's at 5000+ it will fire at 30 degrees
 
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