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Wet around enrichment valve where it meets carb bowl?

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  • Wet around enrichment valve where it meets carb bowl?

    1998 Force 90HP

    Issue I've been having is that the motor runs great, except when I go from throttle to neutral -- 9/10 times it dies. Starts back up fine, but then I shift into gear, go a bit, and then back off into neutral -- dead.

    I've been going through the carb and timing tutorial I found on here and I noticed that I have some fuel/wetness coming from the spot where the enrichment valve comes into the carb bowl. Could this be the cause? Also, the guy in the video (which is great btw) says that vibration will cause the enrichment value to open and close -- I noticed the valve isn't on very tight, so I tightened it.

    Thanks for the input.

  • #2
    Sounds like the RPM's set too low OR Carbs. needs cleaning / adjusted
    Verify correct timing
    "Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm." - Winston Churchill

    Comment


    • #3
      RPM's in N on the hose 1150-1200
      Running, in gear in the water 750-800

      IF there's gas then there's a leak??
      Ethanol and fuel additives or carb soaks can melt the hoses
      and make them leak.


      Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
      ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

      In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

      88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

      PLEASE,NO PERSONAL MESSAGES IF THE QUESTION CAN BE ASKED ON THE OPEN FORUM I WON'T ANSWER AS MY SYSTEM CAN'T REPLY TO YOUR EMAILS

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      • #4
        Thanks guys. Here’s a couple videos of the issue I was able to capture today. Dies when going into neutral. Second vid shows it starts back up no problem, but then cuts. Actually as I’m typing this from the boat, it’s been in N for 5 min. Without cutting out. Love motors.
        https://youtu.be/YZXxZBrx1hM
        https://youtu.be/g7VtgIjlfJ0

        also, doesn’t really matter, but it’s on a 1998 Bayliner Trophy 1703.

        Comment


        • #5
          Since the timing makes a LOT of difference at idle make sure the idle timing is at 9* and of course the WOT as specified as well.

          Comment


          • #6
            Newbie question alert - where/how do I hook up a tachometer to check RPMs? Any suggested brands/tools? Thanks.

            Comment


            • #7
              Update: I turned the idle screw 1/8 of a turn clockwise. I just took it out again to test under load and it only stalled twice (out of like 20 times I went from throttle to N). I couldn’t be more excited. I’m planning on turning it 1/16 more to try for 100% no stalls. Thanks all.

              Comment


              • #8
                They sell, Tiny Tach or it's knockoff.
                Just hook it up and instant RPM's

                IF??? the idles too high?? you can damage the lower.
                When shifting, use a swift, direct motion to put it in gear.
                Too slow and it can grind the edges off the dog and gear.


                Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
                ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

                In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

                88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

                PLEASE,NO PERSONAL MESSAGES IF THE QUESTION CAN BE ASKED ON THE OPEN FORUM I WON'T ANSWER AS MY SYSTEM CAN'T REPLY TO YOUR EMAILS

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by dahlbergdriver View Post
                  Update: I turned the idle screw 1/8 of a turn clockwise. I just took it out again to test under load and it only stalled twice (out of like 20 times I went from throttle to N). I couldn’t be more excited. I’m planning on turning it 1/16 more to try for 100% no stalls. Thanks all.
                  Make sure you air/fuel mixture screw set at NO LESS then one full turn out from lightly seated
                  "Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm." - Winston Churchill

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by may the force be with you View Post

                    Make sure you air/fuel mixture screw set at NO LESS then one full turn out from lightly seated
                    What do you mean “fully seated?” Between the nut and the screw, there’s a lot of thread there (please see pic, screw and nut I am adjusting is at end of red line).

                    I got greedy and adjusted the screw another 1/16th, actually made things worse, tried to go back to earlier screw position, and still finicky, and now I’m back to square one. I should’ve quit while ahead.

                    Can someone confirm my understanding of the idle screw is accurate? Turning the idle screw in, or clockwise, brings up the RPM’s because the more you turn the screw, the more it pushes the throttle cable forward, which means the more you’re opening the butterfly valves in the carbs, thereby leaning out your air/fuel mixture — which is a good thing because: Too much fuel = too rich = dead engine.

                    you guys are great, btw. Having this resource is very helpful. Thank you.
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by dahlbergdriver; August 2nd, 2020, 01:19 PM. Reason: Added photo.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Dahlbergdriver the screw you pointing at is the idle set screw, but "may the force" is talking about the air/fuel mixture screws.
                      At your engine they are at the top of each carb and sitting in a 45 dgr angle. The screw has a spring which is around and the spring tension makes it not to turn by it self from vibrations.
                      Turning the screw CW make the mixture leaner, CCW make the mixture richer.
                      Starting point of the setting is about 1 1/8 out from lightly seated and as "may the force" says not lesser then 1 turn out.
                      Your issue can be that the carbs air/fuel setting are to lean.
                      Check each setting by turning the screw in and then back out at least 1 turn.
                      Maybe you have to set them about 1 1/8 - 1 1/4.
                      Richer setting of the air/fuel mixture screw will decrease the RPM.
                      After you have adjusted the air/fuel mixture you set the idle with the idle screw 750-800 RPM in gear in the water.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Nordin View Post
                        Dahlbergdriver the screw you pointing at is the idle set screw, but "may the force" is talking about the air/fuel mixture screws.
                        At your engine they are at the top of each carb and sitting in a 45 dgr angle. The screw has a spring which is around and the spring tension makes it not to turn by it self from vibrations.
                        Turning the screw CW make the mixture leaner, CCW make the mixture richer.
                        Starting point of the setting is about 1 1/8 out from lightly seated and as "may the force" says not lesser then 1 turn out.
                        Your issue can be that the carbs air/fuel setting are to lean.
                        Check each setting by turning the screw in and then back out at least 1 turn.
                        Maybe you have to set them about 1 1/8 - 1 1/4.
                        Richer setting of the air/fuel mixture screw will decrease the RPM.
                        After you have adjusted the air/fuel mixture you set the idle with the idle screw 750-800 RPM in gear in the water.
                        Thanks for the clarification. Can you guys check this out and confirm I’m doing it right? https://youtu.be/ST9Rs9PoZp0

                        Editing because I realized I’m basically putting them back in the same position they were in prior. Should I go CCW/out another 1/8?
                        Last edited by dahlbergdriver; August 2nd, 2020, 03:06 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          in the force forum at the top are helpful sticky notes read them all
                          link & sync that will explain the procedure

                          http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=431021
                          Last edited by may the force be with you; August 2nd, 2020, 05:26 PM.
                          "Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm." - Winston Churchill

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by may the force be with you View Post
                            in the force forum at the top are helpful sticky notes read them all
                            link & sync that will explain the procedure

                            http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=431021
                            Thanks for this. I understand and think I can do everything EXCEPT #6 (30 degrees center). Also, I’m assuming the necessary adjustments when in gear are being done While the motor is in a large trash can filled with water or something.

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                            • #15
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                              # 6 can be done out of the water with the plugs wires off and grounded and then recheck when you get into the water.

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