91 15hp Force/gamefisher conversion to points

Outboard Mike

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Apr 26, 2009
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I converted my 91 15hp Force/Gamefisher from the BIM coil set up to a points and condenser set up off of a 1980's 9.9hp Chrysler. I get good spark and the engine fires but it will not run. Is there an issue in using the existing flywheel used for the BIM coils with the points and condenser setup?? You have to use the flywheel because of the recoil and cable setup for the manual starter.
 

jerryjerry05

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Consistent spark? Hook up a timing light and see if the spark is there at all times.

Fires but won't stay running or ??Movie?


The carb set right? Air screw where is it set?
Idle set up till it's running right?
 

Outboard Mike

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The motor is on a stand in my garage in The Detroit MI area. We are sheltering in place for the next 2 weeks due to Corona virus so I decided to work on this motor. Have spark plug testers on both cylinders with great spark. The idle mixture screw is set at 1 turn out. The throttle control lever is aligned with the mark on the throttle cam. The fuel pump was pumping gas real well. Can it be a problem with the flywheel not firing at the right time as the ignition points??
 

Outboard Mike

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Additional note: I have 2 extra flywheels with 1 being off another 15hp Gamefisher and the other off of a Chrysler. They look to be the same.
 

jerryjerry05

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The flywheels can look the same and the slot for the key can be off 1/4" and the motor fire and not run.
If the floats stuck? it can act like this.

Starting fluid to see if it runs? then clean the jets in the carb?
Make sure the jets clear and the main nozzle holes are clear.
Any gas coming from the front of the carb?
 

Outboard Mike

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Its a little too cold here(30 degrees) for firing her up outside today. I previously removed and cleaned and checked carb float and needle valve, and cleaned the jet and passages. Seemed to be in good shape with no air leakage at the needle and seat. When I had gas hooked up there was no gas leakge from front of carb so the needle was not stuck. Will keep posting my status. I might pull the flywheel to see if the magnet lines up differently for a BIM coil flywheel as it does for a regular chrysler/force points setup. Thanks for your help during these trying times.
 

Outboard Mike

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The flywheel on my motor is the glue on type for the magnets as opposed to the machined/recessed type. Is this flywheel compatable with the conversion to a points/condenser system??
 

jerryjerry05

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Post pics of BOTH flywheels next to each other with 5-6 different angles.
Lay a ruler across them.
Close enough to read the ruler.
 

Outboard Mike

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I pulled out 2 BIM coil magneto plates that I have and compared them to a Chrysler points plate that I have. For both types the distance from the end of the coil laminations is 4 3/4 inches. I also measured the distance up from the stator plate to the laminations and it is 3/8 up from the plate with the points and 5/16 up for the BIM coil plate. I also measured the 2 flywheels off of a BIM system and a Chrysler points system and the inside radius is 5 inches. With the amount of spark I'm getting it would seem that the flywheel that is used with the BIM system should work just like the flywheel with the points system. Does anyone have any info on this?. I cannot send pictures due to the file sizes over the 2 MB limit.
 

Outboard Mike

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Here are the pics of the flywheels and mag plates off of the Chrysler and Gamefishers.
 

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jerryjerry05

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If the flywheel key is in the same place indexed to the magnet they should probably work.

Take pics of the flywheel with the ruler then the same pic of the next flywheel.
The pics are good but the closeup details will help.
 

Outboard Mike

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These 2 pics should show you that the flywheels should be firing at the same time. The 1st one shows 2 chrysler and the gamefisher flywheels with the keyslot highlighted with a red mark. The 2nd shows sticks placed approximately where they line up to the magnets. It is 3/4" for all 3 flywheels. I think I need to look at the spot where the throttle lines up on the magplate. The neutral lock on these gamefishers are not designed very well for shifting or throttle advance because of there linkage design. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated and thank you for your awsome feedback.
 

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Outboard Mike

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I think I have solved the problem. After looking closely at the difference between the old style mag/throttle plates(Chrysler) and the Gamefisher I noticed the plates have a different pattern and the Gamefisher plate sticks out 1/2" further than the Chrysler. I used the old style plate and that is why I am not getting any gas from the throttle. I am in the process of replacing the plate today. Will give an update when I,m done.
 

ryanj88

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Apr 22, 2021
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I just picked up a 1994 15hp gamefisher. Im looking to convert it also. Can you please help me out with the parts you used? Im having trouble finding what I need
 

jerryjerry05

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This post is a year old and the original poster doesn't seem to be on here very much??
You need to start your own thread.

The change over: your best bet is try to find a 9.9/15 with points and use the parts from there.
I imagine that most hard parts(timer base, plug wires, flywheel etc., your not gonna find very easy. :(
 
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