Chrysler 1975 35 HP, Serial number 3457, Model Number 357HE

kbh121956

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Hello Group, I picked up a 35 HP with controls and wiring that had been sitting in a shed for many years. What I have done, I pulled the plugs and fogged the engine. I dropped the lower and inspected the water pump. I was surprised to find that the impeller, plate and pump housing looked brand new! I pressure and vacuumed tested the lower and she held. I replaced the fuel pump diaphragm, the old one was hard and also had a very small pin hole. Replaced the fuel lines with new. Ordered the proper carb kit and rebuilt the carb, I also installed a inline fuel filter after the fuel pump before the carb. I pulled the flywheel, cleaned the points, and checked the gap. The gap was set at .015, the service manual for this engine states the same. I then set the outboard in the barrel, hooked up the gas, turned the key and it started right up. It stayed running. I hooked up a timing light to number 1 spark plug assuming number 1 is the top cylinder and I got nothing! I then hooked the timing light up to number 2 and it was firing. I then pulled the top spark plug wire off and no change. I did notice that the top spark plug wire and been taped up with electrical tape, it looked as if it had rubbed the insulation off at one point. My question is, Is the coil for number 1 bad? The replacement coil runs around 130 dollars each! Compression on both cylinders are 100 psi, The service manual states 95-105. Thanks.
 

Nordin

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What kind of ignition system does it have, magneto (ignition coils under the flywheel) or battery ignition(ignition coils mounted on top of head)?
As you state points gap 015 it suppose to be battery ignition, magneto calls for 020 gap.
If magneto, measure with a VOM the prime side and the secondary side of the coil.
Prime side 0,5-1,5 Ohm secondary side 6-7 kOhm.
Battery typ, prime side 1,5-3,0 Ohm secondary side 7-8 kOhm.

If battery ignition swap the coils and see if the issue moves.
Check the condensor and swap with the other cylinder.
Pull the flywheel and check the wiring for the condensers and coils for bad insulation.

Look into the HT wire boot, the spring can have rust and there could be bad connection.
 

jerryjerry05

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Sounds like you pretty much covered it all.
Like Nordin said, swap the leads around and see if the spark follows??
The points have set so long they might need to be filed to make contact.
The points can get a build up that won't allow current and after cleaned/filed they might work?

He asked if the coil might be bad? That shows he doesn't have the Mag Power system.

I'd change the impeller anyway.
 

kbh121956

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Thank you for the replies. It is the battery ignition and not the magneto, the 2 coils are mounted on the side of the block. The wiring under the flywheel looked good. There was a black wire that had rubbed on the flywheel, I loosened it up and moved the wire so the it would clear the flywheel without contacting it. Being a black wire I would guess that it is a ground? The water pump impeller wasn't hard and the vanes had not taken a set. Jerry, would you still change it? I will try swapping the coils out in the next few days. I'll post what happens.
 

jerryjerry05

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You said "many years"
I'd change it for piece of mind.
My self I'd never be confident that it wasn't gonna go out when I was 3 mi from home?

And if I could I'd install 2 impellers.
That way I'd be "for sure for sure" :)
 

kbh121956

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You said "many years"
I'd change it for piece of mind.
My self I'd never be confident that it wasn't gonna go out when I was 3 mi from home?

And if I could I'd install 2 impellers.
That way I'd be "for sure for sure" :)

Jerry you are correct. I don't know how long this was in that shed. I'll order one in for it, Thanks again.
 

kbh121956

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Okay, I had a chance to swap the coils and the problem did not change. No spark on number one. Points and been cleaned and re-gapped. This is a battery ignition system. I'm guessing a bad condenser?
 

jerryjerry05

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Take the points out and file them.
Then try again for spark.
You can swap the condensers and see if the problem follows the them??
 

kbh121956

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Will do Jerry, It'll be a couple of days before I get to it as the weather has changed.
 

kbh121956

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Ok I had a chance to remove the points and clean them up. I found the problem while removing the points and condensers. One of the very small screws that holds the condenser in place is broken, no ground! Now I guess just drill it out and re-tap? I know there isn't an easy-out made that small. This screw looks to be a number 6, maybe even smaller. Any suggestions?
 

jerryjerry05

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Sometimes when the screw breaks off, the remaining might just unscrew.
When the pressure's off it just might be setting there and come out easily.
Worth a try??
Try moving it a little and drill a new hole, then tiny tap.

Had a problem with a Mercruiser 4cyl 120hp.
The customer said they'd find a bolt broken off the starter.
Then they'd find the broken piece in the bilge next to the broken bolt.

The starter was mounted without a bracket on the end and the tuorqe would break the bolt
and the vibration from the motor running and the end of the bolt would fall out.
Added a bracket and problem solved.
 
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kbh121956

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Jun 30, 2013
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474
I got the old screw out Jerry. It was broken off slightly below the mounting tap that the points sit on. I sharpened up a center punch and managed to get it out. It was a #6 screw, Lowes has them. I didn't try starting as again the weather is changing. As soon as I can, I will. It will start up just hoping that she fires on both this time.
 
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