1997 120 Force No Gas by Plugs

yoboat

Cadet
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
24
Have gas at the carburetor but it does not start. Plugs have good fire. What's wrong?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,273
Are you pushing the key in while cranking it over ?----Have you check to see if the electric primer is working ?
 

yoboat

Cadet
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
24
I'm not. It has a primer bulb that i used, I wasn't aware of an electric primer.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,273
Look at your carburetors.----Do you see choke plates ?------Do you see a wee electrical device with a hose coming of the carburetor ?-----Try pushing the key in while cranking it over !!
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,665
Follow this starting procedure.


There is no conventional choke on that motor.
There is a fuel enrichment valve, that releases fuel directly into the intake manifold.

Open fuel tank vent

Check the kill switch, place in "run" position

Squeeze fuel primer bulb till firm.

Advance the throttle 3/4 way or more, without putting it in gear. -- This is done by either pushing a button in the center of the controls, or pulling the shift handle toward the driver, or raising the fast idle lever, all depending on what control unit you have.

Turn the key to the on/run position.

Activate the choke (fuel enrichment valve) by pushing in on the key. The valve is only open while the key is being pushed in.

Turn the key to start while continuing to hold the key in.

Release the key and choke when it starts.

3-5 seconds of "choke", is usually enough.

Be ready to pull the throttle back toward the idle/neutral position, when the engine starts and the revs increase.

Continue to pull the throttle back as the engine warms up.

You should not have to use the choke much, if at all, once the engine has warmed up.

Engine should start within 10 seconds of turning the key.
 

yoboat

Cadet
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
24
Got it! I wasn't using the electric choke, that's all it was. Started right up. Thanks for your help!!
 

yoboat

Cadet
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
24
Now I'm not convinced that the water pump is fully functional. I'm relatively new to outboards. I did have the water muffs on but I'm not getting the telltale stream from the small hose with the engine running. Very little coming out the lower holes on the back of the outboard. What should I be looking for?
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,665
First, check the telltale to make sure the opening is not plugged by debris.
Insert a wire into the opening to make sure it is free of mud, bugs, etc..

If you don't know for sure that the water pump impeller was changed this year, its time to replace it.
You will need to drop the lower unit to access it.

A repair manual is your next purchase if you plan on maintaining this motor yourself.
A factory service manual is best, but a Clymer's Force repair manual will do for most common maitainance and repairs.
Look for one here in the iboats store, or both are available on ebay.

Sure, we can help and give you general instructions, but details and understanding are best found in a manual.

So, order up a manual, and an impeller, and might as well replace the thermostat as well.


Impeller factory part number or part number 47-430262 $30


F664068 THERMOSTAT, (130 Degrees) $30


The other thing you might want to get is a fuel pump diaphram kit.
21-857005A1 --DIAPHAGM KIT $26


Factory Force 75/90/120 HP Outboard Motor Service Manual 90-832749 R2 March 1998

$30


Clymer manual # 751-4 , $12 used, up to $35 for new.
 
Top