Cold start issue 89 force 125 hp

[The Force power]

So I swapped out choke solenoids( I have 3 spare)and no change. I checked the green wire(with a tester) from back of switch to the engine terminal and solenoid and it checked out fine with no breaks within. I then alligator clipped the green wire on selonoid and ground as trying to use the choke-registered 8.34 volts.The other day I did notice the choke sluggishly working as if a bad connection- So long story short; the electric choke is not being activated with key switch which is telling me to replace it. It is the original I believe

The 8.3 volts reading is that when energized coil ? or power supplied to coil?
If before the switch have 12 volts & after switch 12 volt but at end of wire on 8.3 with no load, looks to me the wire is nfg.

 

[puffitu]

Good point. I’ll jumper a wire to verify although was told not to worry about v drop

 

[The Force power]

Good point. I’ll jumper a wire to verify although was told not to worry about v drop

.5 to a volt no, but from 13.8/12.5 to 8.3 yes (verified ground, that will affect the readings also)
Even with good readings the wiring can be bad.
let's say; it's shows 12 volts at the wire and a soon you apply a load on the wire the voltage drops down significant (not caused by faulty/shorted attachment)
could be a good indicator that the wire is not good

 

[jerryjerry05]

You said"

I then alligator clipped the green wire on selonoid and ground as trying to use the choke-registered 8.34 volts"
You didn't include the wire was unhooked and not just the open lead unhooked from the solenoid.
The drop to 8v would show a short in the harness if it was unhooked from the solenoid and the key energized.​

 

[The Force power]

You didn't include the wire was unhooked and not just the open lead unhooked from the solenoid.
The drop to 8v would show a short in the harness if it was unhooked from the solenoid and the key energized.[/FONT][/COLOR][/LEFT]

Good point, a short is another possibility; let's hope it's just a deteriorated wire/connections

 

[puffitu]

Well it turns out after all the testing and swapping parts to no avail; I took a look at the way the choke operates manually -just by moving by hand. It felt a bit hard to move and so I decided to see if the springs were the issue. Sure enough someone wound the top carb spring rather tense, so when I adjusted them both correctly the choke works like charm.

 

[The Force power]

Well it turns out after all the testing and swapping parts to no avail; I took a look at the way the choke operates manually -just by moving by hand. It felt a bit hard to move and so I decided to see if the springs were the issue. Sure enough someone wound the top carb spring rather tense, so when I adjusted them both correctly the choke works like charm.

That's great, but it does not explain the voltage-drop

So..What is the voltage at the solenoid-terminal with the plunger engaged? what is the voltage with the solenoid disconnected?

 

[puffitu]

Solenoid Connected; I got 8.74v, both at the switch and at solenoid. No questionable connection issues as I replaced it all. The wiring checked out( direct not via harness). I’m thinking I may have to look around for a new ign switch in near future, the ones probably the original and looking pretty abused.

 

[The Force power]

Solenoid Connected; I got 8.74v, both at the switch and at solenoid. No questionable connection issues as I replaced it all. The wiring checked out( direct not via harness). I’m thinking I may have to look around for a new ign switch in near future, the ones probably the original and looking pretty abused.

If the wire in your harness is good, you could just install a push-button Switch near your ignition switch that would energize the solenoid-wire

 

[puffitu]

I thought of that and I do have one laying around. Will cross that bridge when I get to it. Right now it seems to be working

 

[The Force power]

What’s the right position for the choke in the clamp; manual is vague explaining this...?

I'd like to revise my earlier statement on this.

The right position for the solenoid in the clamp;

Push the Shutter-assembly shut (with rod/plunger connected) make sure the plunger is as deep as possible inside the solenoid adjustment can be made; by sliding the solenoid up/down in the clamp.

The importance of the plunger bottom-out in the solenoid is to prevent excessive draw/burn-out coil in solenoid.

 

[puffitu]

Hey
thanks for the friendly advice.yeah I figured out this one already. Sending PM

 

[jerryjerry05]

If it's in the right position.
When the keys activates the choke, it should snap into place.
Fast and no drag.

Carb cleaner to clean the old grease/oil and then motor oil as a lube.
Grease can gum it up.

 

[puffitu]

Thanks Jerryjerry05
I’ve got it all working now. I probably should start another thread here but now I’m encountering a overcharge issue and my temp gage is literally digging up -no idea here

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes start another.

"digging up" ??? New term??

 

[The Force power]

Yes start another.

"digging up" ??? New term??

I'm lost too

 

[puffitu]

Fogging up-damn autocorrect!!