1989 Force 125hp not charging

[Cyclone]

All static tests from the Seloc manual of stator and rectifier test good. I removed all connections and cleaned surfaces. Is there a way to test the stator AC voltage output while engine is idling on the garden hose? Can I leave the two Green/Yellow statowires connected to the rectifier while checking? Thanks in advance.

 

[Cyclone]

Revision, what should the AC voltage be at idle on the garden hose, on the two Green/Yellow wires from the stator that connect to the rectifier? Thx, tried to edit original post, no luck.

 

[Jiggz]

The ac voltage from the green/yellow wires should be around 16~20 volts AC at rpm above 2500. And the DC voltage from the red and ground (output) should be around 13~16 volts DC. Since reading the output voltage also means reading the battery voltage, it'll be wise to reference the battery voltage while motor is not running and when motor is running.

So take note of the battery voltage with engine off and then start the motor and ran it at 2500 RPM and then take voltage reading from the output and it should be higher than the battery voltage taken earlier. Assuming you do not have any other electronic gadgets sucking on the electrical power. Meaning if you have to take this diagnosis, make sure all extra electronic gadgets are in off position.

 

[Cyclone]

Thx Jiggz, This is exactly the info I was looking for. I assume it’s okay to test at that rpm while on the garden hose?

 

[Cyclone]

Safe max rpm while on hose/muffs

1989 Force 125hp, what is a safe momentary max rpm while on muffs? Want to test charging system before heading to the bay. Thx

 

[Jiggz]

You can use the high speed idle on the throttle control handle and should reach about 2000~2500 RPM. This should be enough to test if the charging system is working or not by taking voltage reading from the rectifier output side.

 

[Jiggz]

Yes, it should be safe at around that rpm of 2500.

 

[jerryjerry05]

If my memory's right??(old timers setting in) the motor needs to go past 2000rpm to start charging.

Or you can hook a meter to the battery.
Take a reading when the motors off.
Then after starting, take another reading.
If the meter doesn't read any different?? then it's not charging.
Say: if it goes from 12.5v to 13v then it's charging.
Once it charges the battery it should read more.
Deep cycle batteries can damage the charging system.

outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures for system.
Most tests are done with the motor off.

 

[Jiggz]

Caution. The charging system is rated only at 7 amps which is nothing but 80 plus watts. If you have electronics/radio running this much or more, when engine is running it will not be enough to charge the battery and eventually dies, even if the charging system is working accordingly.

Hence, my practice is to charge the battery using a battery charger when parked at the driveway until fully charge.

 

[Cyclone]

Thx all. Swapped out the deep cycle for regular battery, showed 12.8 while off and 13.5 volts at fast idle. Thx again.

 

[Cyclone]

Caution. The charging system is rated only at 7 amps which is nothing but 80 plus watts. If you have electronics/radio running this much or more, when engine is running it will not be enough to charge the battery and eventually dies, even if the charging system is working accordingly.

Hence, my practice is to charge the battery using a battery charger when parked at the driveway until fully charge.

Do you know if any of the aftermarket units are of a higher amperage? CDI Electronics?

 

[Jiggz]

The limitation of the charging system lies in the design winding of the stator and the permanent magnets around the flywheel and not with the rectifier. Although, you need to make sure the rectifier can handle the rated capacity of the stator charge winding which is nothing but a measly 7 amps.

 

[Cyclone]

The limitation of the charging system lies in the design winding of the stator and the permanent magnets around the flywheel and not with the rectifier. Although, you need to make sure the rectifier can handle the rated capacity of the stator charge winding which is nothing but a measly 7 amps.

My bad, I was referring to the stator, should have mentioned that. Thx for all the help.

 

[Jiggz]

On some 120's and 150 HP,charging rate is as high at 14 and 16 amps which is about twice that of the 125's. But then you cannot just simply switch those stators with any other motors. Not that I am aware of.

 

[jerryjerry05]

A stator for 1989 125 can fit a BUNCH of different motors.
From the 50 to the 150 depending on the connectors

Find a partsdiagramatboatsdotnet and look up your part..
Select the part and the next page has a comparison part that shows the fitment.
CDI stators have different specs for testing than the OEM.
If you were to buy a new stator? it would probably be a CDI
You have to check the part#

 

[Cyclone]

Sent an email to CDI out of curiosity regarding there replacement stator for my 125hp. Here's their reply.
I don't have a ton of electronics on board, so I'll stick with what I have.


"Hello Tony,
The 176-3095 has the same battery charge rate as the original OEM stator."
-- Regards,
Clark Beard
Technical Adviser

CDI Electronics, LLC.
353 James Record Road SW
Huntsville, AL 35824
Phone: 866-423-4832

 

[Jiggz]

That's what I thought.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The testing of the old)OEM) vs new (CDI) stator.
I believe the readings are different for the 2 kinds.
Contact CDI for the specs.