Gas guzzler

monstertails

Seaman
Joined
May 13, 2013
Messages
59
just put 8 gallons of gas in my 89 Force 125hp and burned through it in under 2 hrs. Is this normal for these motors to suck down so much fuel? My 4 cylinder I/o seemed to get a lot run time.
 

Jiggz

Captain
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Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,817
Yup, that's the nature of these motors, guzzlers! Especially if you always keep it at WOT! For cruising, I find 3K~3.5K rpm to be the most efficient speed gas wise.
 

monstertails

Seaman
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May 13, 2013
Messages
59
Thank you I appreciate it! I will have to shoot to keep it in that RPM range, otherwise I’ll go broke trying to run this thing.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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My twin 88/85s
I got about 2.3 MPG at 4000 rpm.
Trip was 12-15 out 12-15 back and 5-10 looking for "the spot"
Usually 22-25 gal a trip.
My neighbors 1999 225 Johnson got about the same.
 

monstertails

Seaman
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May 13, 2013
Messages
59
WOW!! I had now clue. My first thought when I got this motor was I should save a lot of money on fuel compared to the 305 I/o....this has been Such a learning experience
 

monstertails

Seaman
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May 13, 2013
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Now I just have to figure out this over voltage issue that I’m having. Replace the battery with a brand new one and still the same issue. Surprise there’s no voltage regulator available for this model. Rectifiers are easy to come by but nothing to regulate voltage and I think it’s taking a toll on my electronics.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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your 305 I/O burned about .4# of fuel per HP per hr

your outboard is burning about .5# of fuel per HP per hr

so depending on where you put the throttle, you can estimate your fuel burn.

if you commanded an average of 75hp for two hours, you would have burned 11 gallons. however my guess you averaged a bout 55hp average over the two hours.

the battery is the voltage regulator. if your worried about your electronics, get a DC/DC buck/boost inverter.
 

monstertails

Seaman
Joined
May 13, 2013
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What prevents the battery from over charging? If it’s getting a 16 V supply as per my gauge and confirm with a separate VOM how does the battery not overcharge and get damaged?
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 20, 2001
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15,413
What prevents the battery from over charging? If it’s getting a 16 V supply as per my gauge and confirm with a separate VOM how does the battery not overcharge and get damaged?
Cant “overcharge” the battery per say but you can boil the electrolyte out of them. Thus the warning to not use maintenance free batteries in an unregulated system
 

monstertails

Seaman
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May 13, 2013
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OK that makes sense. Just out of curiosity why couldn’t I had something like this?
 

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Jiggz

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You definitely can have one of those. Tech advances has made this very possible and even at a very cheaper price.
 

monstertails

Seaman
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May 13, 2013
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The only issue is figuring out how to wire it. I assume I would remove the rectifier that is on there now but it has 4 posts with nuts and this thing is plug and play with 5 wires, I have no idea what wire color is what. Has anyone ever come across a wiring diagram?
 

Jiggz

Captain
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There is a four wire version of that rectifier/regulator and that's what you wanted. The one in your pic is a five wire version used on two phase charging systems. The charging system on this force motor is a single phase. Here's a pic of mine.

Note the two yel wires from the reg/rec connects to the yellow or grn/yel wires from the stator. The red wire connects to power back to the battery same as the old one and the black wires goes to ground or negative.

In unique instances, after installing the reg/rec unit the rpm gage will quit working. A remedy is to switched the two yellow wire connections and it should fix the problem.
 

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monstertails

Seaman
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That is a work of art! Thank you! Do you happen to remember where you purchased it? And do I have to worry about any type of wires or is that all done through the wires those yellow ones are connected to?
 

Jiggz

Captain
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You can just google it or even at the flea bay, "four wire universal rectifier/regulator". What I did with mine instead of hardwiring the unit I used quick disconnect bullet type connectors although you can also use the flat blade type. No additional wire needed just use the existing wires.
 

monstertails

Seaman
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Please forgive my ignorance with this as it is totally new to me. Just so I am correct I am going to remove this old rectifier install the new universal 4 lead regulator rectifier in its place and connect the black to the ground, the red to the red that is shown in my photo, one yellow to the green wire, and one yellow to both the green and purple wire together? Also a lot of them I see state 200 W or less is that sufficient in this circumstance?
 

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Nordin

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200W is sufficient as it is about 16,7Amp current if 12VDC, but the stator charging voltage might go up to 14-16VDC depending on at what voltage it starts to regulate and that will be maximum 12,5 Amps if 200W at 16VDC.

Lesser then 150W no...... depends on how much the stator is able to put out.
From my experience the stators for Force/Chrysler put out about 7-10Amp.

Some safety margin is good have, I would suggest you to find a 200W rectifier/regulator.
 

monstertails

Seaman
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Hear is what I found
 

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Jiggz

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Please forgive my ignorance with this as it is totally new to me. Just so I am correct I am going to remove this old rectifier install the new universal 4 lead regulator rectifier in its place and connect the black to the ground, the red to the red that is shown in my photo, one yellow to the green wire, and one yellow to both the green and purple wire together? Also a lot of them I see state 200 W or less is that sufficient in this circumstance?

That is correct, your wire configuration as you mentioned is correct. And if for some reasons the rpm gage quit working after the swap, just move the purple wire to the other green/yel wire. The purple wire just so you know is the input wire for the rpm gage.

200W is sufficient since this has a regulator and your output at most is no more than 13.5~ 14 volts. Anything over that will be shunt to ground and converted to heat. So it's important to clean the mounting surface and keep it tight for good heat transfer.

I personally do not like to recommend which item to buy for some reasons buying this type of universal reg/rec is like a hit-miss thing. And because it's electrical/electronic and pricey at the same time, it's not returnable. So you will have to make sure you read product reviews well before buying.
 
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