Piston damage

[Nordin]

Most of my rebuilds of Force/Chryslers I have reused the crank seals.

Inspect them and be careful when reassemble the crank in the crank case.
They are really easy to snap if they do not line up in the groves.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Only replaced them if they were broken.
When reinstalling, I make sure the opening of the ring is placed down so when the
covers installed the seals push down and seal.

A wire brush on a drill, clean the mating surfaces.
Don't overdo as the brush can eat into the soft alum.
RTV on the bottom bearing making the seal.

Can't tell was there sillycone on the center bearings??
Doesn't need to be there.

 

[The Force power]

Most of my rebuilds of Force/Chryslers I have reused the crank seals.

Inspect them and be careful when reassemble the crank in the crank case.
They are really easy to snap if they do not line up in the groves.

thank you

 

[The Force power]

Only replaced them if they were broken.
When reinstalling, I make sure the opening of the ring is placed down so when the
covers installed the seals push down and seal.

A wire brush on a drill, clean the mating surfaces.
Don't overdo as the brush can eat into the soft alum.
RTV on the bottom bearing making the seal.

Can't tell was there sillycone on the center bearings??
Doesn't need to be there.

Thank you Jerry,

I have the proper tools for cleaning aluminum surfaces ( did a lot of oil-pans/head-gaskets on Isuzu/yanmar engines)

No Silicone on Center-bearings or locktight

 

[racerone]

The half joint on an outboard is precision.------Only use ---Loctite 518---as a sealer.-----It has no fillers and most if not all should squeeze out.---Do not put sealer on bearings !!------That gets you the proper " clamp up " of the bearings.-----You do not want bearings loose after assembly.-----That just spells $$$ / time wasted

 

[The Force power]

The half joint on an outboard is precision.------Only use ---Loctite 518---as a sealer.-----It has no fillers and most if not all should squeeze out.---Do not put sealer on bearings !!------That gets you the proper " clamp up " of the bearings.-----You do not want bearings loose after assembly.-----That just spells $$$ / time wasted

Noo, I would never put silicone on any bearings, but are saying not even on the two half pieces of the block? just loctite?

 

[racerone]

Do not use silicone !------Use Loctite 518 or a product called ----" gel seal " ----From your local Johnson / Evinrude dealer.

 

[The Force power]

Do not use silicone !------Use Loctite 518 or a product called ----" gel seal " ----From your local Johnson / Evinrude dealer.

will do

 

[jerryjerry05]

The bottom bearing has a locator pin.
The silicone is just for the seal.
It does go on the 2 half's of the block

 

[The Force power]

The bottom bearing has a locator pin.
The silicone is just for the seal.
It does go on the 2 half's of the block

That's what I was thinking, a thin film of form-a-gasket between the two half & loctite on the top main-bearing only because all the other bearing have a locating-pin and can't spin anyways

 

[jerryjerry05]

The factory used sillycone on the top bearing and the mount for the trigger/stator.

 

[The Force power]

Yes, I saw that together with a thin paper gasket

 

[jerryjerry05]

Paper gasket? Where?

 

[The Force power]

between the Trigger-base and the block

 

[jerryjerry05]

Never saw one there.
It doesn't show on a parts diagram either, at least none I've seen.

 

[The Force power]

yeah it looks like a "home made"

 

[The Force power]

Okay, I think I found my first "melted piston" & I also found the exhaust-ports in the cylinder-wall have crack in them.
I'm not sure how to measure a Piston's diameter other than with a Caliper, but how do I translate that into 0.10 /0.20--0.40

 

[Scott Danforth]

Okay, I think I found my first "melted piston" & I also found the exhaust-ports in the cylinder-wall have crack in them.
I'm not sure how to measure a Piston's diameter other than with a Caliper, but how do I translate that into 0.10 /0.20--0.40

you bore the block until it cleans up and measure...... only after you have the block "rough cut" do you ever order pistons.

then you hone to finish dimensions

 

[The Force power]

Hi SD, thanks for tuning in

I'm not going to re-use the block, I have a block ( same diameter/size) that the cylinder-wall are in good shape.
I tore this one apart to pull out the "good piston(s) but I broke the top ring on one of the good piston.
I think these piston are originals as they have pressed-in pins.

To make a long story short; I need to find one top ring for this piston so I can transfer it into the other block.
So how to I measure the piston to find a suitable ring for it? or will that be impossible and just have to look for a complete piston that size?
But even then I need to know the size to find a good used piston

 

[The Force power]

Sorry!!
I am an idiot :frusty::frusty: this information has been give to me already