Force 50 2 stroke oil issues

[Dspoppa]

Hello again, been searching the forums, but I’m not really sure what it’s tech called, other than, it’s not burning enough fuel. I crab with this boat, so I know you have to run it out or you get the build up and oil coming out of exhaust. Took it out the other day for a joy ride with the kids. Ran it out pretty good, then “maybe” sucked up some river mud.. and the buzzer went off for over heat. Still spits same as it always has since I replaced the impeller, it immediately went into some limp mode to the boat ramp, about 400yards. With the buzzer going. Pulled it out of the water and had milk dripping. Pulled the lower checked everything, changed lower oil, no water, oil found smells like gas, so either 50:1 is to rich, or it’s not burning enough oil off and it’s a build up, but.. I ran it up and down the river but it’s still has the oil problem. Is the 50:1 ratio to much, coils not firing strong enough? It’s a 1985ish motor. Thanks for checking this out, and sharing a honest thought.

 

[Jiggz]

50:1 fuel oil ratio is the standard for your motor. The only reason it could not be burning enough gas is maybe it is misfiring. Are you able to get 4500~5500 RPM at WOT? The lower unit is sealed and there's no way gas will ever get into it unless you intentionally put one in. However, if you are not familiar the gear oil in the LU it does have a strong smell but don't confuse it with gas.

You mentioned milk dripping, what does that mean? Is it coming from the exhaust? The LU? Or just mud from the water?

 

[jerryjerry05]

No limp mode on the Forces.
It was just running too hot to run fast.
Your lucky it didn't lock up???

Compression test?
Spark test?
What plugs? UL4J Champion B7HS NGK

Milk is the water mixing with the oil.
Little oil, more water.

Too much fuel/oil?
Fuel pump works off the bottom cyl.
Check the diaphragm.

Peeing water, the pee tube usually hooks to the top of the head,
The water usually has no problem circulating to the top.
It circulating to the bottom where sand/muck settle.

Heat gun $16 eBay
Take the temps all over the motor and the cooling passages along the block.

Like Jiggz said: no way for gas to get into the lower unit.

 

[Dspoppa]

Really sorry for not replying sooner, my email got hacked. Had to reset passwords. This is what I have currently. No start, fuel in the cylinders, spark from the coils. Saw the plugs firing. They are the ngk b7hs. The oil that I saw dripping was the 2 stroke oil in the fuel. I changed the lower gear oil and it was fine. It dumped a whole lot of fuel in therough the engine. I rebuilt the carb, would the fuel pump be able to over run the carb float? Thank you

 

[8ender]

Really sorry for not replying sooner, my email got hacked. Had to reset passwords. This is what I have currently. No start, fuel in the cylinders, spark from the coils. Saw the plugs firing. They are the ngk b7hs. The oil that I saw dripping was the 2 stroke oil in the fuel. I changed the lower gear oil and it was fine. It dumped a whole lot of fuel in therough the engine. I rebuilt the carb, would the fuel pump be able to over run the carb float? Thank you

The float should always be able to stop the fuel. Try squeezing the primer bulb on the fuel line. If it never firms up and fuel is spilling out the carbs then you need to take apart the carbs and check the needle valve seat.

 

[8ender]

Also the overheat is concerning. Regardless of how terrible the carbs are being it should always be able to cool itself. I'd check the water pump in the lower unit. If you did indeed suck up some mud then it might have stopped working. If that happened some cylinder damage may have happened. Check the water pump (impeller) first and if it's clogged up then check the compression on the engine.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The pump is a low pressure 2-3# and the needle/seat should be able to stop the flow.
Unless there's dirt in the lines.
Install a filter between the carb and the pump, G-2 G-3 G-12 Fram.
Clean the carb and collect the stuff in the bowl(if any) then inspect.
Any dirt? then for sure install the filter.

Getting spark but no start: fuel delivery, undo the bolt on the bottom of the carb.
Should have a couple tablespoons of fuel.
Next check the flywheel key, if sheared it can spark and no start.

Overheat buzzer: test, key on ground the sending unit, it should make the buzzer go off.
Pull the thermostat, test.

 

[Dspoppa]

So far, I’m able to get it running wot in neutral, but doesn’t idle at all, trying to adjust the idle screw, which I think is 3 1/2 turns from bottom. The needle seat has a flat side and a channel side, which side faces the needle? I installed flat side to carb. I installed a filter before the pump last year, so I’m thinking the fuel should be clean getting to the pump.

 

[8ender]

Idle screw should be between 1-1 1/4 turns from seated. Three turns is way way too much. Don't fire it up to WOT even in a barrel for very long. If it's on muffs don't go above idle at all.

 

[jerryjerry05]

They are NOT idle screws.
The idle screw is on the bottom of the towershaft.
It sets the idle for both carbs after they are sinc'd together(read the top 4 posts)

The "air screws" are set running in the water and in gear.
You can initially set them on the hose, just redo in the water.

They need to be set at 1 and 1/2 turn from lightly seated.
If the motor doesn't run at that setting then something's wrong and you need to figure out why.

There are some cases that the initial setting doesn't work??
One 84/85hp the screws had too be set at 3 turns out??
99.999% 125's are set at 1 1/2 turn.

85's at 1 turn out.

You said:

The needle seat has a flat side and a channel side, which side faces the needle? I installed flat side to carb.
No idea what you mean here??? ​

 

[dadofemily]

"

it immediately went into some limp mode to the boat ramp, about 400yards. With the buzzer going."
My guess is limp mode could also be called gall the piston/sleeve mode and you now have low compression, hence the no idle.​

 

[jerryjerry05]

Limp Mode??? Maybe on the latest motors, the 2000 model?
The limp mode is telling you (buzzer) it's too F%^$&&% hot and shut me off.