Brand new plugs...???

DunbarLtd

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88 85hp brand new spark plugs. First trip out with new plugs yesterday. This is what i found when taking them out when i got home.

It has a fine grainy texture to it. How to fix this issue with these motors?

50:1 Quicksilver Premium Synthetic tcw3 oil. 87 octane Chevron gas with stabilizer and quick kleen (2 tbspn/5gallon)

Mixture screws 1 1/8 turn out.

I will admit I did do a fair amount of slow cruising around (Approx 1500-3000 rpms most times) because it was night time but even so I dont think it should be THIS bad?

Whats the deal here? I have spark and its snappy and blue. Stuck a timing light on each cylinder and doesnt look like its not firing.

Compression across all 3 cyl in 130's.
 

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jerryjerry05

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They don't look bad.
The slow driving can add to the carbon.

Unless you let the gas set in the tank for long periods??
Then the only additive you need is STABIL
The only thing I'd put in my fuel was Chevrons fuel injection cleaner.
And that was when I was trying to clean the system.
Ethanol stabilizer is ok but only if your gonna let it set.
 

DunbarLtd

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If I wanted to fine tune the mixture screws how would YOU do it out of curiosity?

Reason I ask is because before I found a service manual for this motor i did a lot of research and found some people said start 1 1/2 turns out, 1 1/4 turns out, 1 turn out. You even mentioned to someone to leave it at 1 turn out.

Well after reading the manual it states to start 3/4 turn out (1 turn out for 120hp) then clockwise(leaner) 1/8 turn at a time until the motor "pops". Then at that point stop and turn counterclockwise(richer) 1/8th turn.Then do holeshot test and "if it stumbles rich on acceleration turn the screw clockwise(leaner) 1/16 and repeat test.

The way I see it theres almost no way to do the procedure and not have anything but a leaned out setting from 3/4 out.

Lets say I start at 3/4 and turn 1/8 and it bucks so i stop and then go back out 1/8 like it says. Now im essentially exactly where i started. If I have to turn the screw in any further than 1/8 turn to get it to "pop", the final setting will be leaner than 3/4 out.

Ive read endless comments about this subject and none of them go by the book? I understand its "safer" to have a richer idle but why not just go by the book on this one? Were the engineers who built the motors idiots and had no idea what they were doing?

We have to safely assume there were very intelligent engineers who designed these motors and wrote a manual for it. Why would they add something to the manual that would blow up the motor???

Or was there not enough pretesting being done and over time they started getting complaints and perhaps sent out memos to dealerships but never redacted the manuals? Otherwise i dont get why nobody sets these carbs per manual...

They say DONT GO FURTHER IN THAN 3/4 turns out. Almost all comments Ive read say this. But if you go by the manual its almost a for sure guarantee the final setting will be leaner than that.

So the manual is wrong???
 
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Nordin

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Dunbart ....I can not give you the answer about this but from my own experience and from reading books, manuals and of course forums I have deside to not go leaner then 1 turn out of the air mixture screws.
It does not matter of brands of OB.

Note than you says you start from 3/4 and turn in 1/8 and it bucks, turn it out again and you end up at 3/4 or leaner.
From what I have read you should turn in until it bucks/pop cause of lean mixture then turn it out in 1/8 steps until it stumbles/misfires cause of too rich mixture and then set it in the middle of this.

There is a sticky at the top of this forum from Frank A who was the Chrysler/Force guy with the best experience of these 3,4 and 5 cylinder engines at this forum.
At the end of the sticky he mention that never go leaner then 1 turn out cause risk of melting piston at or near WOT.

I know jerryjerry ran his two 88 85Hp Force at 3/4 turn out with no problem for may years.
Maybe he chimes in and write about this from his experience.

I have had a discussion at this forum with some guys about too lean setting of the air fuel mixture screw that can end up with a melted piston because the mixture screw only act at idle and low RPMs.
They did not agree with me but I stay with my thoughts... not leaner then 1 turn out.

I have read somewhere but I do not know where that the low speed circuit in a carb is also working at high speed and there is of course also a over lap between the low and high speed circuits.


I will check in my factory literature if there is any PMs or service bulletins about to reset the air fuel mixture screw to 1 turn out.

My thought is also that the fuel was much better for the engines in those days when they were designed then it is today.
The content of energi was better per volume then it is today and not so much additives.
Soo a richer setting is and maybe some degree retarding of the timing at WOT is better.
To much time advanced at WOT can cause predetonition and destroid pistons.

The factory called for 32 dgr BTDC at WOT but I set them at 30 dgr BTDC.
 

jerryjerry05

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I ran mine at 1 turn out like the factory recommended.

IF?? I run into a problem motor.
I start at 1 1/2 turns out.
Get the motor warm.
Then start #1 turn in 1/8th turn and wait 10 seconds before turning again.
Repeat on all 3
Very important waiting 10 seconds between the turns.
That burns the fuel at the new setting.
Then once it stutters, stalls, coughs? turn back out 1/2 turn.

The factory put out a service bulletin about the settings.
The 85 needed to be set at 1 turn out and left there.
Not all 85's respond to the 1 turn out.

One customers 85/85 no matter what I did it wouldn't run unless it was 3 turns out???

If yours runs at 1 turn? leave it there.
If not then adjust like I suggested.

The 120/125/150 there is an equalizer tube between the carbs.
It should be pinched off for best results.
 

DunbarLtd

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I guess its the same old debate ive recently read about whether or not fuel makes its way into the idle circuit @ WOT and if the mixture screws come into play at that point.

From the illustrations in SELOC, it appears crankcase vacuum (aka "venturi") is strong enough to stop fuel making its way up and into the idle circuits. It says this happens when the throttle plates in the carbs are open 3/8 or more. Therefore its assumed that the mixture screw doesnt make a difference. And would make absolutely no difference at WOT. Because at that point the fixed main jet takes over.

Although, the fixed main jet is still controlling fuel flow into the idle circuit. The only difference is the mixture screws and ports are fine tuning the mix for a smoother idle.

I dont think past 3/8 open the mix needs any fine tune and the engineers have designed the motor to run fine with the main jet size and give plenty of lubrication.

Of course there is a point where the two will overlap. But one could argue the mixture isnt important at that stage because the majority of the flow is being pulled from the main nozzle anyways.

Also Im sure since the addition of ethanol since 1986 they had to account for the leaner condition alcohol creates (because of the oxygen in the alcohol) and set the mixture screws on the rich side. Which is most likely why they sent out a bulletin to set it to 1 vs what the manual says 3/4. Maybe sometime after 1988 they started adding more and more ethanol and realized that the initial 3/4 turn out would lead to a hotter cylinder temp. Hence the 1 turn out recommendation. Which also makes me think well how much ethanol have they increased over the years? Because maybe thats why some engines run better at idle 1 /1/4 - 1 1/2 turn out. For simple fact the ethanol is causing a leaner condition. The more ethanol the richer the mix has to be to keep cylinder temps under control.

But for argument sake and assuming the illustration depicts fuel only flowing from the main nozzle and not through the idle circuit past 3/8 throttle plate opening, why havent they addressed the issue of ethanol creating a lean condition by suggesting a larger main jet when running WOT? Or perhaps even suggesting a 40:1 mix? Doesnt make sense to me based on my interpretation of how the system functions.

I dont have any experience first hand. Im just going off of reference material Ive been reading. Hoping someone may shed some light on this from a more knowledgeable perspective.
 
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jerryjerry05

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After idle the idle circuit just sets there and the main jet takes over.

After they introduced the dreaded ethanol they came up with the service bulletin
about the 1 turn out.
My memories not the best but it came out in 90 maybe 89???

IF? your worried about the burn?
Take it for a ride.
Run it at wide open for 4-6 minutes.
The turn the key off.
Don't throttle down, just turn the key off.
Pull the plugs and check the burn.
If it shows light brown? then it's running lean and needs to be re-jetted.

Had a Triumph Motorcycle, bored out .060
Didn't have a chance to test, my brother took it for a ride( I didn't know he took it).
Burned a hole in a piston, needed rejetting.
The plugs were white from the burn.
 

The Force power

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I guess its the same old debate ive recently read about whether or not fuel makes its way into the idle circuit @ WOT and if the mixture screws come into play at that point.

From the illustrations in SELOC, it appears crankcase vacuum (aka "venturi") is strong enough to stop fuel making its way up and into the idle circuits. It says this happens when the throttle plates in the carbs are open 3/8 or more. Therefore its assumed that the mixture screw doesnt make a difference. And would make absolutely no difference at WOT. Because at that point the fixed main jet takes over.

Although, the fixed main jet is still controlling fuel flow into the idle circuit. The only difference is the mixture screws and ports are fine tuning the mix for a smoother idle.

I dont think past 3/8 open the mix needs any fine tune and the engineers have designed the motor to run fine with the main jet size and give plenty of lubrication.

Of course there is a point where the two will overlap. But one could argue the mixture isnt important at that stage because the majority of the flow is being pulled from the main nozzle anyways.

Also Im sure since the addition of ethanol since 1986 they had to account for the leaner condition alcohol creates (because of the oxygen in the alcohol) and set the mixture screws on the rich side. Which is most likely why they sent out a bulletin to set it to 1 vs what the manual says 3/4. Maybe sometime after 1988 they started adding more and more ethanol and realized that the initial 3/4 turn out would lead to a hotter cylinder temp. Hence the 1 turn out recommendation. Which also makes me think well how much ethanol have they increased over the years? Because maybe thats why some engines run better at idle 1 /1/4 - 1 1/2 turn out. For simple fact the ethanol is causing a leaner condition. The more ethanol the richer the mix has to be to keep cylinder temps under control.

But for argument sake and assuming the illustration depicts fuel only flowing from the main nozzle and not through the idle circuit past 3/8 throttle plate opening, why havent they addressed the issue of ethanol creating a lean condition by suggesting a larger main jet when running WOT? Or perhaps even suggesting a 40:1 mix? Doesnt make sense to me based on my interpretation of how the system functions.

I dont have any experience first hand. Im just going off of reference material Ive been reading. Hoping someone may shed some light on this from a more knowledgeable perspective.

I know that I'm "flagging a dead horse" here but I but I found this so interesting that I wanted to re-surface an old post from Frank;

June 26th, 2011, 11:59 PM
Re: carb fuel circuit question

Well, Bob: If you want to invest some money in your 125, set one carb to only 1/2 turn out--lean. See how long the engine runs at full throttle before you need to replace at least one piston. My guess would be 15 to 30 seconds. Then you can drive up to me and I'll rebuild it.

This is why I always recommend putting a filter AFTER the pump and BEFORE the carbs: Pump diaphragms can shed particles and pump valves can shed brass pieces which will lodge in (usually) one carb inlet needle. the carb goes lean and the pistons serviced by that one are destroyed.

Same thing will happen if you set the low speed mix needle too lean. Take it from me: I learned the hard way when I was still wet behind the ears. Low speed circuit on these carbs is always at manifold vacuum and while they don't contribute as much fuel as the venturi does at full throttle, they still do contribute. Enough so that loss of this fuel will cause lean running and damage. Add to that the fact that because of design, one cylinder of a pair serviced by a carb runs just a bit leaner and you get one lean cylinder and one very lean cylinder. Guess which one will be damaged first.

Look at your carbs next time you take them off to clean them. Under the welsh plug and behind the venturi is (usually) three metered holes. The needle controls fuel to these holes and at idle only, the other two holes act as an air bleed because they are on the other side of the butterfly plate. (some carbs will have only one large hole--It is the engineer's design) This is the so called low speed circuit because its function is to supply fuel when there is not enough air flowing through the venturi to draw fuel up the large brass dip tube and atomize it. At off idle, as the butterfly opens, the other two metered holes are exposed to manifold vacuum sequentially and deliver the extra fuel required by the engine. They are metered--that is a specific size-- to match carb design and engine size. HOWEVER, because of their location, after about 1/4 throttle, all three are always at manifold vacuum and thus always delivering fuel.

On a hole shot, when you bang open the throttle, acceleration should be smooth. It is possible to set the needles too rich and the engine will stumble because of too much fuel, then clear itself out and pick up. Conversly, if set too lean, the engine will "sag" until RPM rises enough for the venturis to deliver, the engine will again recover and accelerate. Set properly, the low speed circuit will deliver enough fuel for the engine to accelerate until the venturis deliver fuel. Acceleration will be smooth with no hesitation or stumbling. This applies to any force engine, not just the 125.

Since the limiting factor in any internal combustion engine is the amount of air it can take in it, is always preferable to have a slightly rich mix so all available oxygen is "burned." Thus, when the engine stumbles due to a rich mix and then clears itself out, it is because the rich mix will not affect power too greatly. Indeed, the loss of power from a slightly rich mix is less than the loss due to a lean mix. In the old days, Automobile carbs had vacuum activated needles that opened under lowered vacuum of full throttle and richened the mix for full throttle operation while timing was retarded a couple of degrees. This had the effect of preventing damage at the maximum horsepower production at full throttle.
 

racerone

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If the cylinder is running ---" cold " -----Then plugs will not stay clean / brown / dry.--------Is there a thermostat installed in this motor ?----What are the compression numbers ?-------Sometimes this issue with black plugs is much discussed for the wrong reasons.
 

DunbarLtd

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If the cylinder is running ---" cold " -----Then plugs will not stay clean / brown / dry.--------Is there a thermostat installed in this motor ?----What are the compression numbers ?-------Sometimes this issue with black plugs is much discussed for the wrong reasons.

Compression is around 130 on all 3. I do not have a thermostat but i have taken laser thermometer reading of the head on various occasion and the head never got hotter than 115F. Its been starting and running fine. I checked the plugs after running wot and they cleaned up a bit so i think its normal. Youre probably right but when we are new to these outboards we just want to make sure. Thanks for the input.
 

racerone

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Your motor is running to cold !!----You need the thermostat or you will always see black / oily plugs.-----The basics seem to be hard to grasp.-----A motor needs heat to properly vapourize the fuel / get hot temperatures and proper combustion in the cylinders.
 

jerryjerry05

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Racerone's right about the thermo.
You motors designed to run at a certain temp, you get better performance, and your
economy should improve.
 

DunbarLtd

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Well I feel a bit silly because I dont know why i thought you meant temperature gauge. Maybe I was tired and read it wrong. Yeah lets go with that...hehe.

Anyways yes i do have a tstat. I bought a new one and have checked it to make sure it works. The head heats up to 115f i believe while using a laser thermometer. Sorry for the misunderstandg i dont know what i was thinking lol.
 

DunbarLtd

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On a hole shot, when you bang open the throttle, acceleration should be smooth. It is possible to set the needles too rich and the engine will stumble because of too much fuel, then clear itself out and pick up. Conversly, if set too lean, the engine will "sag" until RPM rises enough for the venturis to deliver, the engine will again recover and accelerate. Set properly, the low speed circuit will deliver enough fuel for the engine to accelerate until the venturis deliver fuel. Acceleration will be smooth with no hesitation or stumbling. This applies to any force engine, not just the 125.

I was out today and noticed if i idled around for only a couple minutes and then gunned it the engine would sputter. Im not sure how i would describe it as im not good and interpreting sounds to boat lingo. But ill call it a sputter. After maybe i dont know2-3 seconds it will clear out and then pick up speed. It doesnt act this way any other time. Only after i idle around a bit.

If I go WOT, then slow down to idle and immediately gun it again, it doesnt sputter. I've tested this many times with the same results.I have all the carbs at exactly 1 1/8. So not sure what to make of it but thats whats goin on.

I ran half the day today and I saw 32mph consistently. Its been running that top speed every time out for the last 5 or 6 trips since i replaced some gaskets and fixed the lower unit. So whatever I did fixed the problem of it only going 30mph.

But Im not sure if idling on these outboards normally gunks up the plugs and causes the sputter or not but it sure seems to be that way.

EDIT: OK I found a youtube video that shows pretty much what mine is doing except for the hesitation at full speed. I dont have any power issues while running at any rpm. Just while taking off from idle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yo4rttV3lc
 
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The Force power

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Hi DunbarLtd,

Just to clearify; that post & those words are not mine but from the late Frank.
I can only dream to be that good as he was
 

jerryjerry05

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I try, don't forget Nordin and Jiggz and the others who help make this site work.
By the way I accept PayPal, checks , postal money orders and CASH!! :)
I enjoy this.
Was a night manager in the restaurant business, got a part time job working mornings
as a new boat prep/rigger.
Best job I ever had.
That boss liked what I did and offered me more $ schooling and a full time position.
Never looked back.
 

Nordin

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jerryjerry and mtfb thanks for the good words.
I am just a leisure mechanic but love OBs since I was a kid.

Love these Chrysler/Force engines but also runs old Merc, especially the 4 cylinders 50, 65, 80 and 85Hp from early and mid 70es.
I have one 50Hp 1970 and one 80Hp 1972 and a bunch of Chrysler and Force engines from 3,6Hp up to 120Hp.
 
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