Lower unit leaking oil into water pump 89 force 125

[Jiggin4Perch]

I have the GLM brand different part number same kit.

 

[The Force power]

If I'm not mistaken; there are two seals going in at the drive-shaft / the bottom seal lips facing down top-seal lips facing up
one of them should have the metal spring & is for top use.

did this kit only have the driveshaft-seals and not the prop-shaft seals etc. etc.?

 

[Jiggin4Perch]

Only one at the drive shaft, there is no room in the housing for 2. My kit came with prop shaft seals as well. Here is a pick of the old drive shaft seal and housing and the new seals. There is a bunch of o rings as well just not pictured.

 

[Jiggin4Perch]

Forgot one

 

[The Force power]

I would have to check the Manual to see the instructions again, will let you later.
hopefully someone can jump in before that

 

[Jiggin4Perch]

So... I pulled prop shaft seal and it is the same as the drive shaft seal on my lower unit. The part numbers on the inside of the seal are the same. Luckily I ordered 2 more prop shaft seals when i made my order since I will be in heavily fished waters and will likely wipe out seals with fishing line.

 

[The Force power]

Okay found it, the instructions say; install the two drive-shaft seals back to back with the spring side to the outside (of housing)

I found the old package back, I also had a GLM product replacing part# FK1063-2

but looking at the pics. you posted, the base of your water-pump must be different as you said there is only one seal there?

but in the other pics. it does show 2 identical seals I'm confused. I hope its working out for you

 

[Dlubke]

To add some input on the subject between pressure testing it is always better to apply a hydraulic pressure on a seal when performing a pressure test based on fluid loss, over a air pressure test. When doing your Red Seal there is a example on the exam regarding this question. Even though both methods may work. Air and fluids have different characteristic. What may pass during a air pressure test could fail during a hydraulic test.

 

[The Force power]

In other applications...Sure., but on a lower-unit where the pressure-testing are relatively low.
to do it correctly; your are suppose to vacuum tested as well. pressurizing is testing the oil staying in, vacuum testing is testing the water staying out
hence the double seals

 

[jerryjerry05]

Doing a pressure and a vacuum test is the right way.
But if you don't have a tool to do a vacuum test the pressure test is what 99%
of places use.
Vacuum tests are usually performed when the leak persists.

Persistent leaks can be the shaft is damaged(groove).
Then the repair can be difficult.
The seals can be shimmed up by .040-.050 and the leak stops.
The groove if real bad can be repaired (welded,machine shop) or fiber glassed and sanded smooth.

 

[The Force power]

in addition a speedy-sleeve can be installed over the "bad spot"

 

[Jiggin4Perch]

So on the LU cover there is a drive shaft seal, and the on the water pump housing there is a second drive shaft seal. Two very different locations, two separate housings. The seal I question is in the LU top plate. After pulling the prop shaft seal they are identical to each other. I have only found one parts diagram that shows this to be the case and it lists two seal options for the same application.

 

[The Force power]

So on the LU cover there is a drive shaft seal, and the on the water pump housing there is a second drive shaft seal. Two very different locations, two separate housings. The seal I question is in the LU top plate. After pulling the prop shaft seal they are identical to each other. I have only found one parts diagram that shows this to be the case and it lists two seal options for the same application.

I don't know enough about them yet as this is my first one, hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.

 

[Jiggin4Perch]

This is my 1st as well. Is beginning to look like GLM made a packaging error on my seal kit...

 

[The Force power]

that was my thought as well, tonight I'll check what seal(s) is left in the package I got

 

[Nordin]

I have checked some parts diagrams from different suppliers and my factory manual and there should be only one seal for the LU under the water pump housing and only one seal at the prop shaft.
These seals are identical.

Some brands, for example OMC (Evinrude/Johnson) and Yamaha has two seals mounted after each other at both prop shaft and driveshaft.
Chrysler/Force does not.

The GLM kit maybe fit multiple LU from different years and Hp.
I do not have experience from that kit, I usually buy the seals from stores that sells machine parts (motion industries or seal distributers).

 

[jerryjerry05]

When Mercury started using their lower units they use a double seal on the prop shaft and the drive shaft.
All 4 seals have different part #s

 

[Jiggin4Perch]

I have all the seals installed. Now I am fighting to get the LU back on the motor. I have got the water line started and feels like the drive shaft started but I cannot get the splines to engage. Two guys holding it up and one turning the prop. What are we doing wrong? It's being a pain in the rear.

 

[The Force power]

Is the top of the drive-shaft/splines clean (lightly lubricated sides) do you have the rubber-seal & metal ring on the shaft properly
While pushing up, turn the Fly-wheel Clock-wise

 

[jerryjerry05]

Make sure the shift rod's going through the hole in the front?

Guy calls me up and askes me to come put in a drive that he's been working on for a week.
I get there, he's not outside.
I pick up the drive, push the shift rod down to engage the gears.

It slides right in without doing anything but turning the prop shaft.

Knock on the door, he comes out and says IF?? I can get the drive in the motor???
I can have the whole thing, boat, motor, trailer.

I show him the drive and he just about poops himself.

Just keep trying.

Make sure the rubber boot isn't stuck at the top in the crank splines.