89 force 125 slow throttle response

Jiggin4Perch

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I just acquired a 89 Bayliner Capri 19ft with a 89 Force 125. The boat sat for over a year but ran before then, how well it ran is unknown. I changed plugs and installed a tell tail and put it in the water yesterday. It idles great, starts right up, and runs smooth. The only problem is that it is slow to reach full rpm, it takes a good 20 seconds or more to reach 4200 rpm. 4200rpm is all I could get her to go as well. It doesn't spit or sputter at all it sounds great, it just creeps up to full throttle and won't reach full rpm. I put on a buddies Michigan prop that is 13.125x15 when the original prop is 13.5x15 but I would think the smaller prop would spin faster.

Thanks for any help you folks can provide.
 

Jiggin4Perch

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Could my problem be the timing advance is wrong causing the lack of power and slow acceleration?
 

Simple_Man

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First do a compression test. Then Clean the carbs if compression is good
 

Nordin

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The timing would not change out of it self, but if someone messed with it or changed the trigger......yes.

Your propellers has just a different diameter 13,125 vs 13,5, the pitch is still the same 15.
It is the pitch that affect the rpm, 1 inch up lower the rpm by150- 200 and vise versa.

Does the butterflies opens up fully at WOT?
 

jerryjerry05

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Check the compression and do a spark test.
Those OK?? then read the top 3-4 posts and find the post from FrankA about doing a linc and sync.
Check linkage for full throttle.

At idle or under acceleration, does it spit fuel out the front of the carbs?

What's the speed and what size prop do you have?
The 15 is for a pontoon or a heavy boat.
 

Jiggin4Perch

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When I changed plugs I had spark on all 4, and it runs to smooth to me missing on a cylinder. The carb covers are oily and the foam on the hood is soaked behind the carb so I will have to check for fuel spitting out of the carbs. I could only get up to 23 mph by GPS at 4200 rpm. The 13.125x15 prop is what was standard on the boat and my buddy had it new laying in his garage so I'm not out any money to change to a 13.5x17. I will check timing to make sure no one messed with it and hook up the hose and check for bad reed valves spitting fuel back through the carb this week.
 

racerone

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Where are the results from a compression test ?------They run very nicely on 3 of 4 cylinders.-----And does spark jump a gap of at least 3/8" on all leads , yes or no.-----Some simple trouble shooting get you positive results.
 

jerryjerry05

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If the comp is low on 1 cyl they don't run good.

15p should make that motor run at 5900.

You can send the hull ID to Bayliner and they can tell you what came stock on your boat.
I'm pretty sure it came with a 17 or 19p.

If the foams oily? It could have come apart and blocked the air intake?
The glue holding the foam lets loose and the foam can fall off(happened to me)and block the carbs.
 

Jiggin4Perch

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All the foam looks in intact, not to say some turned to powder and got sucked in. I'll have compression test numbers tomorrow night and will be doing a link a sync if they are good.
 

Jiggin4Perch

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Compression test all at 125psi. No spark in hole 2. Swapped coil feed power 1 and 2 and coil 2 still would not spark with tested good power supply and and 1 still had spark. This tells me that my CD box is good and coil 2 is bad. Now I have blue coils, can I put the black ones on or do I have to find blue ones?
 

racerone

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So it ran quite nice and smooth on 3 of 4 cylinders.----That is why I urge folks to do some testing !
 

Jiggin4Perch

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Turns out while my buddy and I tested for spark the first time he was not grounding the plugs. I was in the boat doing things and cranking and he just dangled them all and grounded one at a time to look for spark. He probably saw spark but testing 3 and 4 killed the coil. I have to say im still blown away they run so even with a dead miss. I am deisle mechanic, I work on Cat, Cummins and Detroit. When those have a miss I can tell right away. This two stroke stuff is all new to me. My question now is will this coil I linked to work. I have found used coils for half the price but that seems like a risk.
 

Nordin

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Yes that is the coil which replaces both the black and blue coils for Prestolite ignition systems.
 

jimmbo

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leaky Upper Crankshaft seal can cause poor acceleration
 

jerryjerry05

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Not often a coil goes bad.
I've only seen 2 since 1986.

You try swapping the coils around?

The leads to the trigger: they're real tiny and can break under the shrink wrapped ends.
Try pulling on each wire and see if it comes loose?
I change them as SOP when working on the electrical system.
Just make sure you mark the wires when unhooking and do 1 wire at a time.

That coil will work but there's nothing like the original equipment.
The original coil/pack was blue then the made some changes and came out with black.
There is a difference, the blue has a different plugin connector than the black.

They suggest not mixing the blue and black components.
It can be done with a butt connector or change the connectors.

This is not a plug for PayPal
But anything you buy and pay wit PP it's a good bet you get your $$$ back if not satisfied.
It's a plug for getting your $ back :)
 

Jiggin4Perch

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jimmbo, how would that change performance?

I ended up getting three coils guaranteed to be working for less than that new coil so with any luck they will work for a while and I'll have spares. I'm still going to do a link and sync, check my reed valves, fuel filter screen, and add a in line filter. In the link and sync video he has a filter on the fuel return if I am looking at things right. Wouldn't you want the fuel filter before the fuel pump so the screen doesn't plug and to protect the pump?
 

Jiggin4Perch

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jerryjerry05, I swapped the white wires coming off the coil. Power to coil 1 is orange according to the wiring diagram and coil 2 is red (memory may be confusing those colors but the have those black connectors you pinch to disconnect). I know coil 1 was good so I swapped coil 2 and 1 leads. Coil 2 failed running off coil 1 wiring and coil 1 sparked running of coil 2 wiring. That tells me the CD box is good because I do get spark on 1 and 2 when using a known working coil. It also tells me that the wiring you reference is good. I did carefully examine all those small wires and connections for breaks or bad connections.
 
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