Test coil packs

[Jfeight]

I am working on a 1990 Force 150 for a friend. This is a US Marine motor. The first issue was that he let the boat sit for 2 years with a tank full of ethanol gas. Needless to say I have removed all carbs, cleaned carbs intensively, Replaced all fuel lines, and cleaned out both fuel pumps. Second issue was the starter was turning really slow. So I got a new starter and that one did the same thing on a known good brand new battery 660CCA. I got the idea to take the plugs out and turn the motor over with the plugs out and holy shitaki mushrooms about a gallon of black nasty cane out of the cylinders. The motor was “Hydro locked” with old fuel. It wasn’t water. Longer story blah blah. I know my carbs and fuel pumps are working right.how do I test the coil packs to make sure I am getting the correct voltage and what is the correct voltage?

 

[racerone]

Just see if spark jumps gap of 3/8" on all leads.-----Best test there is.

 

[Jfeight]

I’ve tried and I can’t see! Lol There is flat front new NGK plugs and I can’t see the spark jump the gap. Tried to make it jump to the block on cylinder 1 and I can’t tell. I know cylinder 3 is firing cause I was carelessly resting the back of my palm on plug # 3 and I felt the power of Jesus surge through my body! Trying to determine if I’m firing on all cylinders.

 

[gm280]

Could always take one...or two for the team and lay your arm on the other spark plug leads.

 

[The Force power]

240 AC volts or more going from the CDI to the spark coils

Check the wire terminals at the strip if they're connect properly to the wires, I had a few that were not; pulled on them and they separated from the fork-terminal & shrink-tube.
check also the condition of wiring coming from the Stator that ultimately provided that power to the CDI/Switch-block

 

[Jfeight]

Thanks for the tip! And yeah I don’t think I’m gonna voluntarily light my world up again with the power of the old stator. At least I know the stators good.

 

[The Force power]

lol

you got zapped by the spark plug coil that's 10.000 volts or more
you should/could verify; that get even power out puts from each lead going to the spark plug coils, if one is significantly lower check the input wires and out put wires/connection.

If that checks out; you probably have a faulty switch-box/CDI to verify, switch the wire to a different coil if it changes the volt-output it is most likely the spark-plug coil

 

[jerryjerry05]

About $7 at any parts store.

The power!!! HE'S watching!!

 

[Jfeight]

Getting one today! The power of outboard has struck me and I ain’t doing that again! It’s definitely not the ol hold that while I pull the string gag!

 

[Jfeight]

So I tested voltage on the strip between pack 1 & 2. It seems I have nothing on pack 2. Is this correct?

 

[Jfeight]

So I tested voltage on the strip between pack 1 & 2. It seems I have nothing on pack 2. Is this correct? Also what wires coming off the stator do I test and what voltage should I see while turning the motor over?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Outboardignitiondotcom.
They have test procedures, however some tests require a DVA or Peak Reading Volt Meter.
Some test can be done with a regular analog meter.
They don't have tests specific to the early 150 but the 85/90 120/125 tests will work.
Stator results, OEM and aftermarket (CDI ignition parts) the test results will probably be different.


IF NO FIRE ON ANY CYLINDER:

1. Disconnect kill wire AT THE PACK.
2. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and trigger.
3. Measure DVA voltage of the stator between the output wire sets. With everything connected, reading s should be approximately 180 volts or more. Resistance readings between the stator wire sets range from 680 - 800 ohms.
4. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER: Check stator and trigger resistance, trigger wire sets read approximately 50 ohms between the wire sets (DVA-4V or more), stator reads 680-800 ohms (factory) and 200- 300 (CDI/RAPAIR) DVA 180V or more from blue to yellow. If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the other pack.

NO FIRE ON TWO CYLINDERS: If two cylinders from the same CD unit will not fire, the problem is usually in the stator. Test per above. ENGINE WILL NOT KILL: Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the kill wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the pack, the kill circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, possibly the ignition switch. COILS ONLY FIRE WiTH THE SPARK PLUGS OUT: Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed. DVA test stator and trigger. HIGH SPEED MISS: DVA check stator voltage to each pack at high speed. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the recfifier.