1990 force 120hp outboard HELP!

[puffitu]

Comp numbers with HF tester coming in at
1@120
2@110
3@120
4@120
harbor freight tester, all plugs removed

 

[The Force power]

Hey! when it runs....it runs

 

[puffitu]

You got that right. I realize the readings were taken from HF tester but you know what? I’m not burning to run out and buy a better tester. The compression before all the work was lop sided and now it’s even. The engine is idling perfectly, and consistently starts right up on first or second try, whereas before it would bog, stall, hiccup, buck, bark, sneeze, you name it..!just wish there was a bit more throttle that’s all-

 

[jerryjerry05]

Those #s are good.
I'd say buy a better tester if you were going to work in the marine field??

But the #s all being that close is the important thing.

One of the top 4 posts in this forum have procedures for a link @ sync. by FrankA(RIP)
If this doesn't help? then maybe the prop's wrong or the boats too heavy?
Post a pic of the throttle cam /butterfly's when it's at full throttle or wide open.
This can be done not running. Just turn the prop as you shift so the gears mesh and the throttle
cable doesn't bind.

 

[puffitu]

Hi Jerryjerry05

i don’t think I’ll be going into marine mechanics any time soon and yes the consistency in those numbers gave me enough comfort in knowing something had improved and no leaks.

I am having trouble following what you mean here...I still haven’t had my coffee though so ...
>>>>>> Just turn the prop as you shift so the gears mesh and the throttle
cable doesn't bind.<<<<<<<?????

 

[The Force power]

I think what Jerryjerry means; in order to be able to shift the throttle/forward shifter in full forward you may have to turn the prop to line-up the dogclutch so they interlock and not just sit against each other

 

[puffitu]

Ok I’ll try fumbling with the concept when I get home-it’s shaping up to be a great weather weekend here so I’ll get er ready.l think I fixed my tilt/trim issues and also and swapped out my regulator/rectifier gizmo so curious how she’ll perform. Was getting a slight overcharge as one of the prongs(+) was lose-we will see.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes that's exactly what I meant.
Thanks.

Most cases the motors running when the shifters moved.
If the dog and gear doesn't align the linkage and cable can bind and can make the shift hard and
can cause damage.
It can actually snap a shift cable.

 

[puffitu]

Hey thanks guys; I’m up early getting ready to go out for the day. What are the chances that my prop is spun...? I’ve been reading up on the issue lately...

 

[The Force power]

I'm not familiar with that term, does that mean; the internal hub is spinning inside the prop's housing?

 

[puffitu]

Yeah, how can one tell if that's the case with my prop.? Although I ran it pretty hard today. Lots of boat traffic and the engine performed just as good as the 4strokes out there. I actually had a couple people marvel at the motor and how well it was running for its age.

 

[jerryjerry05]

If your running 4400k then your prop is OK!!

Gotta figure out what prop???
What speed? What boat(size/weight)?

Your motor should run 52-5300
Take it for a ride.
Take cover off.
Have someone drive and then push the throttle forward with your finger.
IF?? it goes faster then the linkage needs adjusting.
Again, the top 3-4 posts(read them all) one will have the linkage adjustment steps.

 

[puffitu]

Thanks Jerryjerry05
Ill mess with it and re read your suggested posts.

 

[puffitu]

By the way I have a 1990 18’ Welcraft Sport, if that helps. Not running with much gear but planning to; planning on doing some diving this next couple of months so dive gear and couple people. Thinking of having a spare fuel tank also...but just maybe.
thanks
p

 

[puffitu]

Hello again,

Im contemplating re doing the oil seal on the propeller shaft. I saw some droplets of oil sliding down the propeller while it was sitting in my yard; that's why im concerned. Is it ok to run while keeping an eye on oil level or should it be re done asap?Anyone have a any insight into the job? Ive got a manual but find it somewhat difficult to navigate. Maybe someone might have an easier step-by-step plan of attack? Thanks Guys!

 

[The Force power]

Hi Puffitu,

Are you sure its gear-oil and not just exhaust oil? (thru hub-exhaust)

 

[Nordin]

Is the oil black or gray (chocolate colored)?
Does it smells fuel or gear oil?

If it is black and smells fuel it is unburned fuel and you do not have to worry.
Grey and smells gear oil then you have to reseal the LU.

 

[puffitu]

It’s lower gear oil. I know because it’s clean; I changed it recently-I’ve went out twice since. I need a tutorial on this thing; how hard is the job ?

 

[The Force power]

Do you have the manual? have you done lower unit seals?
Lower unit seal replacement is not rocket science, but can be not be just slapped together either; there should be enough tutorial material on this site and we'll be able to walk you through

I just hope for you the prop-shaft is straight and is not the cause of the seal failure

 

[puffitu]

Yeah, I do have a manual, but it seems a bit weird to navigate to where I need to be. Im in the process of wrapping my head around the task and watching some videos. Id like to order new oil seal kit but again, hitting a wall because I was never able to find the model # of engine. Ive been able to ball park it to 1990-1994 Force 120hp and that's how all the parts ordered in this journey thus far seem to fit just as they should.
Maybe someone can point me to what oil seal kit(s) I should get ??