1990 force 120hp outboard HELP!

puffitu

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So after the exhaust jacket gasket re install I’m
getting comp readings as follows:
1@110+
2@95
3@110
4@110+
are these workable or ..?
 

jerryjerry05

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The readings with the HF tester?

Yes they are workable.
Once you get it running the #s will probably go up as the loose crud will move from the rings and
the readings improve.

Get it back together and then "Run it like you stole it" :)
 

puffitu

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Thanks Jerryjerry05, and to all that chimed in on this; you ve been a great help and I’ve learned so much from this whole thing. Even though I’ve probably replaced parts I didn’t need to replace lol, the experience and knowledge is priceless. The weather couldn’t be better so it’s time to get back out there.
 

jerryjerry05

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The part you broke?
Post a pic.
If it's a factory part I can help find the part #
But an aftermarket temp gauge or parts for one?????
 

puffitu

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puffitu

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Hi Jerryjerry05

after running the engine for about 5 or 6 min in a bin and on muffs( to simulate back pressure); blowing smoke all over neighbors car. It ran like a top!!!
Checked comp:
1@115+
2@95
3@120-
4@120

And it ran smoothly; started on third try, after chocking once on first try.
The thermostat switch may be an aftermarket thing. I found one but the dilemma now is that I cannot budge the flathead screw where it’s supposedly supposed to screw into. Just to be clear; I’m using a new used head cover I found, which was in way better shape than mine...but mine did have a switch in it; the new one doesn’t-just a flat head screw. Any advise on if these are designed to come out or...?

thanks

p
 

puffitu

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jerryjerry05

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Heat and then penetrating oil and then more heat.
You might end up drilling the screw and using an easy out and some heat.
 

The Force power

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THIS WHY IT'S GOOD TO BE HERE

I really enjoyed reading every post from this journey and I picked up so much knowledge that I can apply to my 90 hp.

Thank you for posting all the advice & pictures
 

puffitu

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Likewise. There are some very knowledgeable people on this site with priceless info and experience. Being somewhat new to boating I learned so much just by research and patience. At first I tried to jump to conclusions and fixing stuff which I ended up creating more problems in turn. Now I feel I’ve gained know how and actually saving a ton of $$ by doing things myself. There’s always room for improvement with an older boat an motor but the reward is great when after a rebuild the engine works and I’m back out on the water. There are some issues that I need to fix but at least now I feel I’ve made progress. Good luck and don’t hesitate to contact;)
 

puffitu

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puffitu

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Yeah; good morning; I can’t seem to ID this throttle box; is it a Merc?
 

puffitu

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Yeah; good morning; I can’t seem to ID this throttle box; is it a Merc? Second question is; I’m having an issue with no throttle when in full forward wot. Would me not having it in forward gear while taking the lower unit off and on have to be the cause of it, maybe?? Did I mess things up?splines not lining up? Thanks
 

jerryjerry05

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The throttle should have no affect on the installing the lower unit.
The shifter, not sure.
Try taking the cover off or undoing the screws and pull it up and see if there is a
name embossed on the lower part.
 

puffitu

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Thanks Jerry For all that made my project worthwhile. Couldn’t have done it without your help..!
 

puffitu

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Hi all!
can anyone recommend what prop I should have on a 18’ Welcraft CC with 120hp force outboard? Haven’t been able to figure out what I have now but I’m not trying to win any races just a good allaround prop would work.
 

jerryjerry05

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Just a good all around prop??

There should be some markings somewhere on the prop you already have?
Look under the nut and along the sides of the hub?
Always include the year as the later props were Mercury and are different.

The motor should run about 52-5500 rpm's at wide open, that's with the motor trimmed up
and the boat not overloaded.

If you can't find a number on the prop?
You can get yours reconditioned and ask them for the pitch when it's repaired?
Then start with a 19p and see how the rpm's are?

The right prop can make a big difference in performance and economy.

Had 17p on my twin 88/85hp
I wanted a lot more speed.
Changed to 19p and got more, about 3mph more and about 20% more fuel usage.
 

puffitu

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Hey all
hust a follow up to that prop question in my previous post. After getting helpful tips from Jerryjerry05 on reconditioning your prop; I decided to do it my self. Some filing, 80 grit sand paper and palm sander finish....almost like new. Completely eliminated the vibration issues, idles beautifully, gained power at WOT. So all around; get those props cleaned up-makes a ton of difference. Mine was a mess though.
tyanks
 

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