1990 force 120hp outboard HELP!

puffitu

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puffitu

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jerryjerry05

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Couldn't really tell from the pics if there is any damage to the cyl. or gasket?

Should have said 1990 120hp.

You say there is no spark on any cyl.??
How did you test?

You have 2 CDI's and both being bad?? not likely.

If you really don't have spark? I'd say start with the stator.
outboardignition.com has test procedures for your motor.
Try unhooking the tachometer, sometimes they can cause the spark to go away???

Post some closeup pics of the top cyl. and the gasket.
 

puffitu

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Hey Jerryjerry
Thanks, I just recently replaced all gages on the boat, then the motor died after running for 1.5 hours, maybe that's why I got no spark? I kept all old gages just in case and might I add all were working but I got new ones (Sierra)gifted to me because my step father works for a gage company Maybe ill swap to the old tach after I re install the head gasket and new thermostat.
The headgasket is totally deteriorated and im having a heck of a time trying to get the last two flat head bolts off the thermo housing. Im beginning to feel that the year of this engine is either 89 or 90 though.
Im strongly considering replacing the stator IF I am able to get the flywheel off. Now, if I do I have to get re-timed correct?
 

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puffitu

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jerryjerry05

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Like I suggested 1990 120 the 89 came out as a 125hp.
There are changes in the cyl.bore between the years.
Changes in the water pump impeller.
If the housing had a stainless wear cup? 1990

Looks like the top cyl. is ok and maybe the gasket is bad?

I worked 3 hrs on just 1 bolt on a thermo housing.
I replaced with hex head bolts.
 

puffitu

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Yup; housing DID have that stainless wear cup. The head gasket was bad; surprised the motor ran as long as it did.1 Thermo screw became a sacrificial lamb so as you said is now going to become a hex. Any professional advice on weather to use gasket seal on head gasket or...? Thanks jerryjerry05
 

jerryjerry05

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No sealer needed.
It's built into the gasket.
Just make sure it's tuorqed right.

#20
I start at 14# then 17# and finish with 20#

Some say re-tuorqed after it's been used 6-8 hrs.
 

puffitu

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Goodmorning campers!
Well after finally breaking one bolt on thermostat housing and two more trying to take the water jacket off im almost ready to start thinking about putting it all back together; after re tapping the busted screws. All I need to know is how carefull one needs to be when cleaning the power head/around the cylinders. How do you keep debris from entering and getting lost behind the pistons. Using a small and medium size wire brush until I find my wire wheel that's missing in action at the moment. I have air hose to blast out debris but I feel I may not be able to get it all out...?
 

jerryjerry05

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I use a long skinny screwdriver and compressed air.
You'll probably never get it all out anyway??
Most crud gets pushed through during normal running.
The flush with clean water(hose) can help get the rest.
Very important to flush after EVERY use.
 

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puffitu

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Yeah, I used a drill bit and comp air, along with some of my Polish engeneering and got it all back together yesterday. I always flushed after being out on salt but I cannot speak for previous owner. I plan on checking comp and spark again after I get home from work in a few hours. Thanks again for all advise. I feel there’s more to this story though...I think I may have an electrical issue; just from thinking about how the engine behaved before it died the last time..
 

jerryjerry05

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Let us know how it runs?
For ignition problems, outboardignition.com
They're pretty good.
If you have an aftermarket stator? the test results for
the stator will be different than the OEM stator.
 

puffitu

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Well, after trying to start it; same thing; just very sluggish to turn over; like the started just didn’t have the juice to turn it. So I decided to take the started off and investigate. It was held together by dust and corrosion. I found a close by merc mechanic and I’m picking the new starter and solenoid up today. I also have a marine mechanic coming by today so we will see...
 

jerryjerry05

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You probably don't need a solenoid.
The starter is easily rebuilt, I think this site sells the brushes??
The starter can drag because the cable's bad, a bad connection or a weak battery.
Even the lower unit can cause the drag if the bearings have rusted??
You do another compression test?

Sent you a PM
 
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puffitu

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Thanks jerryjerry
we actually got it to start and run for about a minute yesterday but had to shut it down because I noticed water spraying out of where the head gasket and head meet near the bottom of the lowest cylinder. We figured it was a under tourqued bolts so I took it off and plan on redoing with the right tourquege. Is it normal for it to pull water into the cylinder though?
 

jerryjerry05

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Yes if the torque isn't right it can draw water in.
You compare the old gasket with the new?
Some aftermarket don't match and not seal.

Make sure the head and block aren't warped??
A straight edge or a piece of glass held up against the surfaces will tell.

In some cases you might need to use silicone on the gasket.
Make sure the surfaces are DRY and no oil when reinstalling the gasket.
 

puffitu

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Thanks jerryjerry
i got hung up at work yesterday so no progress on the Yaht but maybe today I’ll get a few hours to mess with it. My buddy has got a tourque wrench and I’ve got the manual with the sequence and torque specs. The exiting part was that we actually got it to start and stay running. There are some other issues which are eating at me but first things first them on to fine tuning .
you ain’t got a rectifier laying around for this thing do ya? Have a great day and thank you for your help
 

puffitu

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So after retorquing the head down yesterday I went and bought a brand new marine battery today, put it in and all Im getting is a spinning starter; not engaging...seems like a voltage draw or drop. any ideas?
 
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