Model 1057H8H Sn277 Chrysler need help

Joined
Oct 15, 2018
Messages
3
ingot this boat for 1600 it’s my first boat. One to learn the ropes and crash into the dock with....
took it out first time just after buying it, we finally got her to start up, and enjoyed half a day in the lake with my two older brothers. Through out the day an alarm would start going off, I thought it was a water alarm at first thinking it needed the pump turned on to get the water out. Later I found out it’s a heat alarm wired to the motor. It would come on for about a minute then go off mostly we were trying to troll at as slow as I could get the motor to go with out disengageing.

So problem 1 the heat alarm goes off and on when I take it out.
problem 2 when I try to engage forward or back it does a lot of clicking, less if I slam it into forward. “ from what I read it’s adjustments would love a step by step instructions for dummies.
Problem 3 the 3rd time I went to take it out was 2 days after the second time only time it was not on the trickle charger over night. Got to the lake and batterie was dead! “6 year old deer start. Needs new batterie but, we got a jump start from someone and took it out for some fun started trolling around then the alarm went off! At the time I didn’t know what alarm, so I disconnected the wire attaching to it. Then maybe a minute or two later the engine just shut off! We were only out maybe 10 minutes! Not long enough to give the batteries a charge! We were dead on the water😱😱😱 and the paddle and tiny trolling motor on the mostly dead batteries were not enough to get us back. Someone eventually towed us in! Few! Not a fun feeling!
we called it quits packed it up went home.

So so now I test batterie I need to get another, got a cat jumper pack for emergencies, going to get an ever start for 58 bucks can’t beat that get 3 lol

i tried to winterize the boat with antifreeze and the muffs with a hose and funnel 5 feet above the motor used like 1 full container of antifreeze but it never came out of the squirt holes on top..... started it up reved it couple times let it run some fuel stability stuff into the motor, but could not get it to come out of the holes like I wanted to see on top....
was this because I need to have to attached to a hose with pressure first to fill the motor with water first to make it work or should my muffs with hose and funnel using gravity and a container and half of antifreeze now all over the ground enough to should have done it???

also changed the oil with the 3 plugs on bottom and put in new gear oil. The old oil seemed a little very little milky bit not like fresh oil!
So now, I need to buy a batterie! I can’t find a good owners manual with how to instructions for my model, or a new water pump replacement kit for my model... I have my trailer take. Appart with the one bolt that holds the front half of trailer to frame so it fits in my garage where it’s sitting with a little heater set to 47 degrees hopefully keeping it warm enough in my little garage because I’m not confident the antifreeze made it everywhere.
What should I start with what to buy and just do or what to buy to test my oil seals at 10 psi
instructions and links to parts tools needed purchased would be so great full!
Done my fair share of wrench turning but the Jeep forums make it so easy to learn and understand how to build a crawler! Wonder if anybody in the boats world is the same type of people! The ones that just live to help and talk about the stuff they love doing!
Thanks for any and all help in advance and sorry for grammar or spelling check most of the typing goes off screen per phone also trying to add picture when I select one it says above file limit size of 2.00mb stupid! Then says please select at least one! You won’t let me!
0e27d32c-87b2-458b-8698-1ff9877696ca
 

Tassie 1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 13, 2018
Messages
582
Yes, get a new battery or batteries,
find out where the water is coming into the boat and have a look at the boat restoration section to see how to fix it,

then make sure the bilge pump/s are working, they are easily blocked by all sort of crap

search the archives for chrysler 105 hp issues, problems and fixes,

iboats sells Chrysler repair manuals,
there are other troubleshooting guides for the frustrating ignition system.

Be realistic with your expectations of a 40 yr old outboard motor,
it's probably already had a hard life and is well and truly on it's way to the nursing home,

you fix one thing and then something else stuffs up,

we've had 10 chryslers over the years from 10hp to 120hp, including a 105
ALL had ignition system problems,
( we're not complete loonies, we've had normal motors as well lol )
the current 70 hp has just shat itself 6 months after fitting a new aftermarket cd module,

cross roads time for this $200 motor,

can't help at all with winterizing motors, don't need to do that here,
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
You don't really need to winterize your motor, just keep it in the down position.
#1 BUZZER Your overheating and gonna KILL your motor.
Replace the impeller before you try to start it again.

If it stalled? then it got hot!! TOO HOT!!

ANY milky oil means there is water in the drive.
You need to drain it and do a pressure test.
When you change the oil do a pressure test when the drive is off.
Use a spray bottle with soap and water to test for leaks.

They sell aftermarket manuals here, but try to get a factory manual(ebay)

Battery's: You need 2
One is a regular starting battery, at least a 450CCA
The other is a deep cycle, as big as you can afford.
If the boat has a radio? then put in a switch to kill the power when
not in use??
Harbor Freight, Battery Load Tester 25$

Your motor is designed t work and charge the regular battery.
The motor will charge the deep cycle but in the long run it can damage the charging system,
but use a regular charger at home.

Tips and hints:\top 3-4 posts in this forum have procedures for your motor.

Go back and fill out the profile and add a signature with a location.
There are a lot of Chrysler and Force owners all over, you might be close to someone
who can help??
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,274
What 3 plugs did you take out to change the gear oil ?-----Normally only 2 plugs are involved.-------Sounds like a compression test needs to be done if it over heated a number of times.-----You are mixing gas and oil at a 50:1 ratio I hope.
 
Joined
Oct 15, 2018
Messages
3
There are 2 plugs one is full the other is a vent right next to each other and 3rd plug is on bottom to drain. Gas was at least 50:1, not a radio or anything it has a gas gauge but doesn’t work, says its fill always when powered up. Yes I need to replace the impeller! At least. Guess I need to search the form some more. If I already changed the oil with fresh gear oil does it have to be drained to test it? Or should I just run it for the next ride then check it for any milky?
I will fill out the profile too, I’m near SLC
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
If the gauge is reading full? then it's probably rusted in the up position??
Too may time people leave the tank empty when done boating, then the condensation forms
on the exposed sending unit and it rusts.
Next time they fill it, it moves to the full position and stays there??

No need to drain, go boating and check when you come back in.
If it leaks bad enough to do damage then it would probably leak oil just setting??

My 88/85s both would weep a bit of water at the allen headed set screw on the bottom.
Nothing I did made a difference so I just lived with it.

SLC?? Siberia? London? China? :) Sorry I'm old and don't get out much :)
 
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