Force 90hp Hard Starting

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legalfee

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My 1995 Force seems to take a long time to start. When I squeeze the bulb it seems to only have a small amount of fuel. It's the same on the 6 gallon tank or the 20 gallon. The lines and bulbs from the tanks to the motor are new (Mercury). Once I get the motor cranked it runs fine but takes around 10 times. Any ideas appreciated.

Steve
 

roscoe

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Are you activating fuel enricher?
Advancing throttle?
pushing and holding key in ?
 

GA_Boater

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Does the bulb get firm? I know mine, new or old, feels kinda wimpy until the carb bowls begin to fill.
 

blackd

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What do you mean by this: "but takes around 10 times."?
 

legalfee

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Yes I've tried the fuel enricher (push in key and button on pump) It seems like the bulb used to get full and firm but now it feels like 1/4 or less full.
 

blackd

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OK, I'd guess it takes far more pumps of the bulb than previous. Pump 2-3 times longer. Are the fuel lines bigger than before? Do you have the old bulb to replace and try?
 

legalfee

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OK, I'd guess it takes far more pumps of the bulb than previous. Pump 2-3 times longer. Are the fuel lines bigger than before? Do you have the old bulb to replace and try?

I've got two lines with a bulb on each one. One line for the 6 gallon and one line for the 20 gallon tank. I took out the bayonet connector and just use the small connector on the motor.

Pumping longer may be the answer.
 

GA_Boater

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While squeezing the bulb, does any gas drip out of the carbs?
 

Redbarron%%

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A 95 Force 90 hp has a fuel enrichment valve (I think) and for the valve to work the throttle plated must be completely closed (according to the factory manual).
Try a link and sync (see above sticky posts) to make certain that this is the case.
I have a 90 hp Sport Jet with the engine and my problem is getting to 1100 to 1200 rpm idle for idle cooling and the plates closed.
The timing will affect the idle speeds and best idea is to do the link and sync and set the timing.
Of course the fuel supply has to be right as as well, but with fuel in the bowls check the enrichment valve operation.
The key switch on a 95 wouldn't have the push in to prime feature as the stator AC (yellow wires) goes to the heater in these engines and when running heats a wax capsule that operated the valve.
Look for the enrichment valve with two yellow wires from the stator to confirm.
 

legalfee

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The valve I have has Yellow / Black and Black (Ground wire) on it. The Yellow / Black goes to the ignition switch (see attached diagram).
 

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Redbarron%%

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OK then you do have the choke and the electric solenoid.
Make sure that the solenoid is activating and the choke plated are being pulled closed.
In this case the electrical current from pushing in the switch should activate the choke system on all carbs.
 

roscoe

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Sorry but no, he has the enrichment valve.


Pump bulb till firm.
Advance throttle to FULL throttle position, using the neutral only button on the controls.
Push in and hold in the key and turn to start.
When it fires, release key.
If it dies, turn the key without pushing it in to restart.
 

jerryjerry05

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Does the ball ever get firm?
There are diaphragms in the enricher and fuel pump that if bad the squeezie won't get hard.
The squeezie's only job is to draw fuel from the tank and when it's pumped up and firm then it's done.
The one way valve will fuel to flow past once it's started.


Got this from an old post by pnwboat
Enricher :
Fairly easy to test. Disconnect the fuel line that goes between the fuel enrichment solenoid and the motor right where it is attached to the intake. Place the loose end in a small container to catch any fuel. Pull the lanyard off of the "Kill Switch" so the motor doesn't start. Crank the engine and push in on the key to engage the fuel enrichment solenoid. You should see some gas come out. Only time you should see gas come out is when you push in on the ignition key while cranking. If you see gas coming out while cranking and the key NOT pushed in, then the solenoid is stuck open. Sometimes a squirt of carburetor cleaner in the intake and outlet connections on the solenoid will clean any gunk out.

If no gas comes out when you push in on the key while cranking, make sure you have 12 volts at the connector for the enrichment valve when you push in on the key. You don't have to actually crank the motor to test for voltage. Turn the key to ON and push the key. If you have 12 volts, then the solenoid is probably toast. If no 12 volts, then you have a wiring problem. Make sure the grounds are making good contact and that the bullet connectors on the wires between the enrichment valve and wiring harness are making good contact.

I thought the enricher only gave a quick shot when energized.
That holding in the key did nothing more than the one quick shot.
I looked in the manual and they don't cover it at all.

Do a compression and spark test FIRST
 

legalfee

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Will check it this weekend Thanks y'all for all the advice!
 

legalfee

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Pushed throttle wide open, pumped bulb 6-7 times, and it cranked right up. The choke isn't working. I put the tube in a jar and pushed the button and nothing came out. I even pushed the button on the pump and nothing came out. Fuel did come out of the bowl when I removed the tube. I'll check the voltage later. As long as it cranks I'm not going to worry too much.
 

legalfee

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Don't mean to hijack this thread but I have the same issue. It takes multiple cranks to start and spraying starting fluid to get it going. Once started I can cut it off and restart but if I wait a day or two I have to repeat the whole process.
 

legalfee

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How hard is it to rebuild the fuel pump? I'm thinking that's my issue. It's not compression. I've got new battery and starter. The fuel bulbs are new. My choke doesn't work. I'm thinking about fixing or replacing it also.
 

legalfee

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With my boat when I go WOT it activates the kill switch and the starter wont turn. I could disconnect the kill wire at the control box. I went ahead and ordered a fuel pump. I think my pump is causing flooding. I have been using a lot of fuel lately.
 
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