Just got a Chrylser Boat

dmwelch

Seaman
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
62
Hey guys, I picked up a 1966 Chrysler boat. IT has a couple stickers factory stickers that call it the Flamingo, then some that say Formula 1, the outboard on the back is a Chrysler 45Hp.

Model Number 45631 Serial 3851

I have a lot of questions on this engine:
- Does it have a generator or a charging system? The boat has spot light and nav lights and was wondering if that runs off the battery that's being replenished by a charging system.
- Is it a electric shift? I didn't see any wires heading down into the lower unit.

Any other tips or advice?

Skill Level: I rebuilt a Johnson 40HP Big Twin with Electramatic Shift, sos I'm up for a challenge.
 

Attachments

  • photo284460.jpg
    photo284460.jpg
    386.3 KB · Views: 0
  • photo284461.jpg
    photo284461.jpg
    429.8 KB · Views: 0
  • photo284462.jpg
    photo284462.jpg
    545.4 KB · Views: 0
  • photo284463.jpg
    photo284463.jpg
    899.6 KB · Views: 0
  • photo284464.jpg
    photo284464.jpg
    546.9 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,863
dmwelch try to avoid asking about the boat in a motor sub-forum, where you started this topic.

ask about the boat and boat work over in the restoration sub-forum
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...ion/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair

or basic boat and boating questions in the boat topics (but not motora) sub-forum
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...s/boat-topics-and-questions-not-engine-topics

keep this topic about the outboard


good luck w your project
@jerryjerry and others are likely to be very helpful Chrysler OBs
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,718
Nice looking boat. The motor does have a charging system and the spotlight is powered off the battery and recharged by the motor. Should be cable shift and not electric.

What kind of shifter is on it?
 

dmwelch

Seaman
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
62
This is the shifter, is that a knob for forward and reverse?
 

Attachments

  • photo284476.jpg
    photo284476.jpg
    680.1 KB · Views: 0
  • photo284477.jpg
    photo284477.jpg
    642.5 KB · Views: 0

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,718
This is the shifter, is that a knob for forward and reverse?

No, that is for throttle only mode. Pull the knob out and you can push the throttle forward to give the motor more gas when starting and increase the idle for warm up. Once running and warmed up, put handle back in neutral position and push button in, now you can move handle forward or reverse to change gears and throttle.
 

dmwelch

Seaman
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
62
Interesting, so it is a cable shift. I'll take that over electric shift. Would that act almost as my choke? I don't see any controls for a choke on my dash. Is there one, I know my Johnson BT has an electric choke that I could never quite get right.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,718
Don't know if yours has an electric choke or not. Just got into working on Chrysler OB my self a little while ago. Need someone like jerryjerry05 to maybe answer that one.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,436
dmwelch....your 45Hp Chrysler may or may not have a charging system. It depends on if it has battery ignition or magneto.
They were fitted with those two systems.
The battery system has charging the magneto not.
If you check if it has ignition coils mounted outside the block or under the flywheel.
If it has coils outside, then it has charging system.

Chrysler OB has mecanical gearshift with remote wires and as alldodge says you just move the remote handel forward or reverse. The shifting and throttling are synced in the control.

Chrysler used to have a push to choke system in the keyswitch for choking.
If you have factory keyswitch you have the choke in the key, push it in to activate and turn the key to start.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,961
Interesting, so it is a cable shift. I'll take that over electric shift.

Just make sure to make the shift quickly and smartly, Do not 'ease' in into gear, unless you like spending lots of money. That was where OMCs Electric Shift and Hydro-Electric shifts excelled, very quick shifts
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
If it has a battery to start?? then it should charge the battery as it runs.
That's if the system is still operational???

OMC introduced the electric shift way back in the "good ole days"
Like the Cobra Outdrive System.It wasn't one of their better ideas.
Any water leaking into the lower unit would screw it up.

The others have given some good advice,
The top 3 posts in this forum, read them and maybe something you read might help?

Your motor and shifter is a fairly easy motor to work on.
Most parts are still available.
Good luck with your new toy.
 

dmwelch

Seaman
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
62
Thanks for all the info, Going to start tracing wires etc today, currently letting the garage heat up.

I have two big coils the side and it looks like a lot of copper wire under the flywheel which leads me to believe thats my Stator/ Alternator.

The the outside of the coils looked cracked, replacements easy to find?

will update with picture today.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
Your motor is a 61
The coils are easy but can be costly.
IF??? they work, then coat them with that black plastic you see all over tv.
Yes probably the stator.
Before you do any repairs, do a compression and spark test.
No reason to spend a lot of $$ on a sick motor.
 

dmwelch

Seaman
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
62
I see some cracks on the coil. What’s the best way of testing? (Inline spark tester?)

my manual hasnt arrived yet, what compression should I be looking at for these engines?
 

kbh121956

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
474
Pull both plugs and ground them. Crank over the engine and you should be able to see spark. Both pistons should have over 100psi and close to each other. 130-150psi is great. Do as Jerry suggested if the coils are good and coat the windings with that stuff on TV, Flexseal is the name. I use "Plasti Dip" it's brush able and Lowe's hardware carries it. This is an older outboard then I have ever worked on so, I could be wrong on the compression. I know that you have to have over 100 psi.
 

dmwelch

Seaman
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
62
I know this is an electrical question, but what size battery would you guys use for this motor? I’m on my way to Walmart to find one now.
 

kbh121956

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
474
dmwelch, all that I could find on the web is 12 volt. Buy a automotive battery as the deep cycle marine battery is hard on the electronics.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,718
My opinion is you only need about 550CCA, but I buy the biggest that will fit in the box. As the battery gets older they get weaker, so the 800 or so bat will still crank the motor up for some time.

the deep cycle marine battery is hard on the electronics.

Never heard this statement. Don't want a true deep cycle to use as a starting bat because it may not put out enough amps, but they won't hurt anything. These days most are what they call duel purpose
 

dmwelch

Seaman
Joined
Nov 7, 2016
Messages
62
I got a Walmart Marine battery 650cca, hooked it up and it turned over like a dream. Good compression on both cylinders.

once I get it running, how do I determine if the alternator/ stator is working, will it be running at 13.4v like a car alternator?
 

kbh121956

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
474
dmwelch, There are a couple of things to consider when choosing batteries. Firstly, never use a maintenance free battery on a boat motor equipped with only a rectifier. Over-voltage will occur and damage to the charging system will be the result. Otherwise, you should always use a good quality cranking battery for starting the motor. The larger the motor, the more cold cranking amps you need. Deep cycle batteries are designed to be deeply discharged and do not provide the "short burst" of power that cranking batteries do. Use deep cycle batteries on trolling motors only unless as an emergency. Also remember that most boat motors do not have full charging amp output unless they are running at wide open throttle. For this reason, any motor with a stator less than about 10 amps charging output may not keep your battery fully charged and the battery will require manual charging periodically. Install and keep plugged in, an onboard automatic charger to keep your battery in best condition. Most batteries should last 3 to 4 years with proper care and maintenance. Last but not least, never cross the battery or jumper cables backwards. That fairly common mistake will "pop" the rectifier EVERY time. - outboardignition.com
 
Last edited:

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
I worked at a dealership and they installed 450 cca on every boat they sold.
That included boats with 460 Fords.
Install a second one and a battery switch.
 
Top