Chrysler 130

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
Keep look for another motor or block to replace my 105. Frank told me I could use a 105 (original) 120 or Force 120 and change my cowling so long as it was before 1994. Found a boat and motor on CL but guy says compression is 132 across the board (skeptical) and its a mid 80's motor. I didn't think the 130 was made in the 80's. Anyone can verify when the 130 was made and if I can use my 105 cowling on it?
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
From the info I can access, they didn't make a 130????

135 1976/77
Most of the older covers were interchangeable if the h.p. was close.
A 3cyl cover wouldn't fit the bigger 4 cyl. motors.
The Force cover will also fit up until 1997.
97 was when they changed the looks.

100 (1979)
100 (1980)
100 (1981)
100 (1983)
100 (1984)
105 (1976)
105 (1977)
105 (1978)
105 (1982)
105 (1983)
115 (1977)
115 (1978)
115 (1979)
115 (1980)
115 (1981)
115 (1982)
115 (1983)
115 (1984)
120 (1976)
120 (1977)
125 (1981)
125 (1982)
135 (1976)
135 (1977)
140 (1978)
140 (1979)
140 (1980)
140 (1981)
140 (1982)
140 (1983)
140 (1984)
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
There was a 130 made. I think it was 1972

Asked the guy on CL to check and he said the paper work shows 1973 so assume it was made in 1972. Says it runs good, but not so sure I want to spend more then a 1000 for boat, motor and trailer to only junk the boat. He did do some work in new carpet and seats but I don't need nor want a Tri-hull
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
Couple new question areas:

Going tomorrow to have a look at a 140 and maybe a 120. I down loaded the serial number listings for 90 thru 150 OB from Max rules. Is there anything to look for or look out for with either of these two motors?

Guy wants 700 for the 140, has power trim and comes with the controls. Figure to put it on my Conquer 105 and use my 105 cowling over the 140 :rolleyes:
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,944
Figure to put it on my Conquer 105 and use my 105 cowling over the 140 :rolleyes:

Perhaps also swap the model/serial number plate over too, just in case you live in a place where they get goofy about overpowering. Just keep the official plate for when you want sell it
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
Do a compression/ spark test.
The older ignition systems are getting harder to find and seem to cost more and more??
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
Brought home the 140 HP motor, I think. The serial number plate was removed and it had been worked on some. It is a newer one because it does have 4 coils, 2 CDI boxes and no distributer. He had two 12V bats connected in series (24V) to crank it up. I mentioned about that much voltage can damage some things. He says the bats are bad and can only get it to crank with both.

It cranked slow and only started to fire one time. most the time, the starter would engage but only move the motor a tad. Pulled the plugs and compression was at 90 to 95 all cylinders but turning so slow I think this was the only good sign. The head is flat (took pics but unable to upload due to IE11) and think it may just be a 140

The guy has OB's of different types all over the place. Also has a 120 (does have serial number plate, maybe 1973) which is all rusty. WOnder if the 120 is worth buying just for parts, but block may be cracked, don't know
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
IF??? it's a true 140?? then someone's changed something??
The 140 was made up to 1984 and all models had a distributor.
The 4 coil and 2 packs were made on later 1985 125 hp.
They were the plug in type connectors.
In 1987 they changed to the screw down type connectors.
If you can't load pics?? ty to resize them??
Force put out a 125 in 1983(first year for Force) it came with the 2 packs and 4 coils.

On the top stbd. side of the block and under the bottom carb is a foundry stamp, it should have the year the part was made.

The 2 battery's in line.
The starter might be bad?
Or the gears in the lower unit could be seizing making it hard to turn over??
Low comp can cause it to turn slow.

The flat head, lots and lots of models came with a flat head.

The bad 120 yes buy it if it's cheap.
I bought a bad motor for $200 and thought the parts would be worth the $$
Turns out the flywheel key sheared and the motor ran like a champ.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
The 4 coil and 2 packs were made on later 1985 125 hp.
They were the plug in type connectors.
In 1987 they changed to the screw down type connectors

Wish I would have known this before I went, oh well its probably a 125 which would still be OK if I can get it to run. I get taken often just trying to believe in folks, I know better but still try to give a little. I rotated the prop by hand (neutral) and felt nothing and was smooth.

My guess is the guy knows what is probably wrong but wasn't saying. Guess my main reason to pay 500 is all the distance I dove to get it and appeared to be all there. Did notice and say something about did look like the motor had been removed, probably removed the 140 and installed the 120

I cannot post pics because iboats forum has an issue with Internet Explorer 11, it gives me an error and iboats knows about it. Don't know when it will be fixed

The head on the motor is completely rectangular and has to rounded sections. This is my 105 taken from my other thread

fetch
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
That looks like a 83-86 125 with the newer style power packs and coils.
If it has good compression it's worth 500$ all day.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,581
Cool, 125 would be more then enough to scoot my little boat. Hope the leg checks out also so I won't need to use the my old style.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
The new style props will work.
The older with the flare and pointed cone use the same as the grooves on the shaft are the same.
Your pic that shows the prop with the black flare, according to all the parts diagrams the flares on backwards???
 
Top