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Questions about tilt/trim install on 1991 Force 90 hp

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  • Questions about tilt/trim install on 1991 Force 90 hp

    Hi all,

    I recently bought a Bayliner Capri 1800 with manual tilt and I am going to install a used hydraulic tilt/trim unit.

    Can someone please post a picture or describe where to connect the red power and black ground leads from the solenoids to the engine? I understand how to connect the green and blue leads. There are already green and blue wires in the harness going from the engine to the dashboard area.

    Also, what parts of the manual tilt need to be removed? There is a sliding arm on the starboard side, a sliding arm with lock (for full tilt) on port side. There is a latch in the center to lock motor to the cross bar.

    Thanks in advance!
    Barry

  • #2
    "Also, what parts of the manual tilt need to be removed? There is a sliding arm on the starboard side, a sliding arm with lock (for full tilt) on port side. There is a latch in the center to lock motor to the cross bar"
    ​All of that needs to be removed

    The T@T does it have the solenoids? you need to find them.
    ​The B/G from the trim motor go into the solenoids. Then the wires from the solenoid harness get attached to the wires to the front of the boat.
    ​Does it have an "up and down" switch in the shifter?

    Pics of what you have?

    ​You'll need 3 posts to add pics.
    Or use a photo sharing site.


    Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
    ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

    In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

    88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

    Comment


    • #3
      I think I found out where to connect the power and ground wires from the solenoids. There are vacant connection screws next to the red and black wires near the bottom of the electrical board on the port side of the motor:
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/z7IJ3NQWwx3mfA5G3
      https://photos.app.goo.gl/jlIFIvcyJUDAVvbr1

      There are blue and green wires in the existing wiring harness from the dashboard to the motor to connect to the corresponding wires on the solenoids.

      No, I do not have an up/down switch on the shifter. I ordered a generic switch that I will mount near the shifter and connect to blue, green, and power under the dash.

      Manual tilt parts:

      Latch mechanism in center: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gLuxrmIxHcaDPd313

      Slider on starboard side: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xiuTBWAHe8RKHrJx1

      Slider with latch on port side. This holds engine at full tilt when latched: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UQWrOBjBMPIlsb8m1

      Is there a way to release hydraulic pressure and manually raise or lower the hydraulic tilt/trim?

      Thank you!!
      Barry



      Comment


      • #4
        No on the location.
        They(relays) go towards the front on the bottom of the cowl.
        There is 2 empty screw holes there.

        Relays: e-bay "force outboard relays" a bunch show up.
        These should be used as the power drain is pretty hard on the regular wiring.

        The last 2 pics: all those parts need to go.
        They'll get in the way when installing the new stuff.

        The last pic.
        That's the tilt bar that the motor rests on when the other stuff is gone.
        ​The hyd pressure as you tilt it down will hold it in place.

        The easiest way is to remove the motor from the boat.
        If the motors ever been in salt water??? the job just became about IMPOSSIBLE to do without breaking something.
        Even in fresh water it can be tough.
        ​You'll probably need an acetylene torch and lots of patience.

        I might have some of the parts you need.
        I'll look and see.


        The T@T switch is a fairly heavy duty one if you don't use the relays.

        ​Fill out a signature for your posts and include a location.
        You never know, you might be close to someone who can help??



        Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
        ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

        In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

        88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Barry welcome aboard. Where are you located? If by chance you are near Rhode Island, I could help. I did mine recently. Not to hard.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the offer Simple Man but I am in Ventura County, California, dodging fires right now. Rhode Island is a great place to boat. I love Block Island.

            Thanks for the info Jerry!

            Here is a picture of what I bought on Ebay. Relays and transom mount are included, although I don't plan on using the transom engine mount. Mine is fine.
            https://photos.app.goo.gl/jIocI3g6iOaJHGmA2

            I still don't totally understand where to connect the red and black wires from the relays but maybe it will become clear when I receive the item. It is in transit right now.

            The boat was a freshwater boat since new. I have had it in salt water a few times in the last month. It was flushed and washed down each time and lives in my garage now. Hopefully it will come apart OK. No visible corrosion.

            I ordered a generic trim/tilt switch that should hook up OK near the shifter.

            Take care,
            Barry



            Comment


            • #7
              OK, I found 2 empty screw holes. I assume these are where to mount the 2 solenoids:
              https://photos.app.goo.gl/kUw5vScntYNWkNBr1

              Simple Man, if you are able to send a picture of the inside of your engine with the cowl off that would be great! I just need help with the red and black wire connections.

              Barry

              Comment


              • #8
                Yes that is where the solenoids mount. The Red goes to the battery side of the starter relay and the black goes to ground. I just finished wrapping my boat for the winter. This is a link to the my thread, from when I did mine. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...winter-project There are some photos in that thread.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks! This is great. I will figure out from here.

                  Barry

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The black goes to where the N part of the battery cable hooks(under the starter.
                    ​The circuit breaker, it connects to the side of the cowl about 3" from where the solenoids mount.
                    ​Then the power red wire is picked up from the + side of the solenoid.

                    Sometime the solenoids go bad when changing or removing the wiring.
                    ​If it goes up but not down or the other way, change the relays.
                    They can be gotten at any auto store.
                    ​But they won't have the mounting tab you can add that if needed?


                    Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
                    ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

                    In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

                    88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I found the parts diagram for the tilt/trim. I understand the wiring now and where the parts mount inside the cowl. Thanks everyone!

                      Barry

                      Click image for larger version

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                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I received the tilt/trim from Ebay. It looks like a nice fresh water unit with no visible corrosion. It is off an engine of the same year and HP as mine. It includes the stern bracket and swivel bracket as one assembled unit.

                        Should I replace the whole bracket including tilt/trim as a unit? I would have to lift the motor off of the "king pin", remove the steering cable and wiring, etc. Then remove the bracket from the transom. Is there a risk of damaging the transom in the process? I'd have to rent an engine lift and fabricate a lifting eye.

                        Or should I just transfer the tilt/trim parts? I'd have to remove the manual tilt hardware (probably not a big deal). Then I'd have to disassemble the new bracket. Would I have to disconnect the hydraulic lines and transfer the pump separately (and bleed)? Or could I transfer all of the parts as a unit, held together by the metal lines? I don't want to damage/bend the hydraulic lines.

                        The bracket on my boat is also in good shape. So, no real advantage to replacing the bracket based upon corrosion.

                        Thanks!
                        Barry

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          IF??? the motor turns easily?? then no don't mess with the king pin.

                          It would be way easier to remove and replace if the motor was off the boat.

                          On the king pin bracket is a thrust plate.
                          Make sure it gets transferred to the right spot.
                          Otherwise it will destroy the bracket.


                          Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
                          ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

                          In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

                          88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            when I did mine, I just swapped the parts to my existing clamps. You might have to loosen the transom bolts to fit the parts between the clamps.

                            Comment


                            • #15
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                              I see the steel thrust plate. I will make sure it gets transferred. Thanks for the heads up.

                              Yes, I will just transfer the parts to my bracket. The motor turns very easily now.

                              Is there a way to release hydraulic pressure on these units to manually raise the engine? I know some other models have a pressure release screw. I do not see one on the parts diagram.

                              Barry

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