Chrysler 70 HP 707HE

Isa4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 7, 2017
Messages
121
OK I removed the flywheel and stator from the 3 cylinder 70 HP 707HE engine. OHM the stator to 1.0 to .9 ohms. Cleaned exposed shaft, key and slot, inside flywheel and magnets, stator ring which showed no continuity and charging wires(2) which did show continuity between the two wires. Needs a new distributor belt and will need timing. Then I will add the coil and condenser in replace of the old CD. YEAH!
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
And the problem is??
outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures/trouble shooting procedures.
 

Isa4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 7, 2017
Messages
121
And the problem is??
outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures/trouble shooting procedures.


$257.00 for their new CD Ignition replacement. Coil and condenser $60.00 and ready available if needed. 1972 Chrysler 70 HP 707HE Outboard.
 

baldwibr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 1, 2017
Messages
128
I did away with my magnapower box and Motorola coil and replaced it with a standard automotive ignition coil for about $50 total. That included a new condenser and new standard spark plugs instead of the flat style. Runs like a top.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,926
Great.
baldwibr Make up a wiring diagram and parts list and explain how you did it.
There 's been a few requests for just that info.
Thanks
 

kbh121956

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 30, 2013
Messages
474
baldwibr, that would be awesome if you would do as jerryjerry05 stated. Can you post pics of it?
Thanks.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,434
Guys this conversion to an auto typ ignition is very simple.
There is a circuit diagram at Mastertech website to look at but I will try to explain.

You must have a points distributor to do it, an electronic will not work.
Catch up an 12VDC auto ignition coil and an condenser that is custom for the coil.
If you do not have the right condenser the points will go bad because of arcing when opening the points.

Run the blue (ignition) wire to the + terminal at the coil, then the white/black wire from the - terminal to the terminal at the distributor.
This is where the points is connected in the distributor.
Then mount the condenser to the distributor and connect the wire from the condenser to the distributor (points) terminal.
Also check so there is good grounding of the distributor.

Change the plugs from surface gap typ to regular plugs with a bend electrode ex. NGK B7HS.

Gap the points to 014 if you have a 3 cyl. engine or 010 if you have a 4 cyl.
Set the timing to 30dgr BTDC at WOT.

Hope you understand my explanation.
 

Isa4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 7, 2017
Messages
121
Guys this conversion to an auto typ ignition is very simple.
There is a circuit diagram at Mastertech website to look at but I will try to explain.

You must have a points distributor to do it, an electronic will not work.
Catch up an 12VDC auto ignition coil and an condenser that is custom for the coil.
If you do not have the right condenser the points will go bad because of arcing when opening the points.

Run the blue (ignition) wire to the + terminal at the coil, then the white/black wire from the - terminal to the terminal at the distributor.
This is where the points is connected in the distributor.
Then mount the condenser to the distributor and connect the wire from the condenser to the distributor (points) terminal.
Also check so there is good grounding of the distributor.

Change the plugs from surface gap typ to regular plugs with a bend electrode ex. NGK B7HS.

Gap the points to 014 if you have a 3 cyl. engine or 010 if you have a 4 cyl.
Set the timing to 30dgr BTDC at WOT.

Hope you understand my explanation.

Norm I set my timing at 32 BTDC at WOT, 4500 RPM as explained for the Chrysler 707HE. All the rest is exactly what I did except I used a 12 Coil with a built in Resistor so the engine cranked on 9V then went to 12V after starting,
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,434
I would retard the timing to 30 dgr due to the quality of the fuel today.
But try with 32 dgr if you are comfortable with that.
 

Isa4325

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 7, 2017
Messages
121
I would retard the timing to 30 dgr due to the quality of the fuel today.
But try with 32 dgr if you are comfortable with that.

I retarded the timing of outboard to 30* due to the 10% addition of Ethanol reducing the AF Ratio to 14.08 and she does run smother at maintained speeds. Minor repairs to do to the keel area patching a few goudges in the hull and my 1st open water test for WOT (4500 RPM) with timing light to verify 30* retard.
 
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