Tilt/Trim Valve Body Check Valve removal

AFFTAXI

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I have searched the forums and I see most people use compressed air thru the 2 small holes in the valve body to blow out the check valves after removing the circlips. That is not working for me. Can I get access to those by taking the pump apart?
 

Jiggz

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You can take the pump section apart but I doubt it'll give you access to the valves. Not really sure since you never mentioned what year or HP is the motor and T&T in question. By all means take it apart and then let us know if you can get access to the check valves. This will be very helpful for members with the same problem.
 

AFFTAXI

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Sorry bout that. It is on a pontoon with a 1987 Force 85 engine. I would prefer some other way because I understand there are lots of little pieces if I do. i.e. springs, check balls, tiny washers, etc. And I certainly don't want to take it apart unless it will give me access to the valves.
 
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jerryjerry05

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Taking the pump apart, it gas springs and check balls in there?
Not easy to reassemble..

​If you keep playing with it, it should eventually come apart.

​Been in salt water? then it will be a lot harder.

Only work on one end.
Try pushing it IN just a little bit.
Then tap the body on a piece of soft wood(pine)
Trying to move it back to where it was.
Then try the other end, that might come apart easier.

It might take a couple of hours to get apart.

Or just buy a replacement.
The cheapest ones are just that.
​Lots of times they don't work right out of the box.

Let us know how it progresses???
 

AFFTAXI

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I wonder if there is any way to use the hydraulic force from the pump itself? Maybe plug off the output ports and remove the circlip on one side while holding a rag over the check valve and pulsing the motor? Would that be a possibility?
 

AFFTAXI

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I guess that will only work for one side though? Anybody know if the shuttle will come out with valve so I could push the other side out with something?
 

AFFTAXI

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Or maybe, I could take out both circlips and then put a large screw-in hose clamp around the ports so the valves can't blow all the way out? That would avoid the hi pressure problem and be safer than a rag. Sound feasible?
 

SkiDad

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you just need a stronger compressor - i borrowed my neighbors and it shot right out. Like Jerry said once you get one side just take the shuttle valve out and use a wooden dowl to push the other side out
 

AFFTAXI

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No Title

My proposed setup. This should take them right out hydraulically by reassembling to the pump or with good air pressure to prevent losing any parts. I'll find out in the morning and post back my results.
 

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Jiggz

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No Title

OK. You're setup is looking good from the pics. You have all the hyd connections plugged. Now turn the VB over and you should see small holes as shown in the pics below. Using a rubber tip air nozzle and using about 50 psi of compressed air, pressed and blow into one of the small holes while covering the rest of the remaining holes with your other fingers. This should just be a quick burst for a second.

Note make sure you only removed one circ clip and using a rag to catch all the parts that will come out. If the spool valve (which houses the small check valve and spring) gets stuck and would not come out all the way. Push it back in with a slight tap using a large screw driver. Before trying again, clean the lip and surround area on the hole until bare metal. Try blowing again.

If it only comes out a little bit, put a drop of oil and push it back in again and then blow it out again. And yes, it will eventually come out. If it's too stubborn switch to the other spool valve and keep trying. And yes, as soon as you get one side out, all you need to remove the other side is to push it out with a wood dowel or similar tool except metal.

And yes, as soon as one spool valve gets out the shuttle valve goes out with it.
 

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AFFTAXI

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Well guys, I did not try this with the air, but I did put the VB back on the pump, tapped it once or twice, they both came right on out to the hose clamp stop. Might be helpful to someone some day. Thanks everyone for all the great responses.
 

AFFTAXI

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One of my Stainless Circlips went flying to an alternate universe while I was taking it off. Am I in trouble?
 

Jiggz

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Nope. You can just substitute it with non-oem stainless circ clips. Stainless is the keyword as this unit gets submerged in water and could rust.
 

AFFTAXI

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Ok, Great. I had read on here somewhere that they were only available in bulk lots of 500 or so. Any ideas on a source Jiggz?
 

Jiggz

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Jerry probably has one. But you can also google "circ clip stainless" and there's some on evil bay.
 

jerryjerry05

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Like Jiggz says STAINLESS is the only way to go.
He's right about me having the stainless c-clip.
​You pay shipping?? I'll send you 2. about $5 PM me with your address.
Carburetor Float Valve Needle Seat Kit fit Briggs & Stratton 398188 281144
Put that in e-bay and a bunch of sites open with the seals.

You get the relief valve apart without destroying them?
​Top posts in this forum has good tips for taking them apart.
Make sure the seals go back in right.
​Some of the pics I posted in the stickys shows the right way they go.
 

AFFTAXI

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Yea, I got them apart. They have a few teeth marks in em, but everything got put back together and the Tilt has NO leakdown that I can see after about 2 hrs. :tea:. Again, I got lucky. I did not realize until after I put everything back together, that I noticed that there were 2 ways to put those new needle seats in. I just happened to have put them the right way. :angel: BTW, Thanks for the offer on those circlips, but I already ordered a pkg of 5 from Walmart.com. I have a regular steel one in temporarily until they get here.
 
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