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Gear lube drain screw won't break loose.

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  • Gear lube drain screw won't break loose.

    Hi everyone. I have a 1997 Force 85hp engine and I am having the hardest time trying to break loose the small allen head screw to change lower unit gear lube. The last thing I want to do is strip it out. Has anyone ran into this problem before and how did you end up getting yours out? Thank you for any suggestions.

  • #2
    I can never understand why they put an allen in there. PB blaster, lime away.. just make sure you have the allen wrench fully seated in before turning.. tap it in with a hammer if needed
    Last edited by SaveTexomaBeaches; September 5th, 2017, 08:20 AM.

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    • #3
      For last resort, you might just have to leave it alone and just use a suction hose to empty it.

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      • #4
        I did what Jiggz said if I didnt I would have just stripped out the allen head with no chance of ever getting it out. I tried many different ways but it was not going to move.
        Lompoc california 1986 force 85856X6L

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        • #5
          I used PB Blaster with the correct size of an allen socket on both of mine. It was a bad design for sure, they like to let water seep in. I used liquid Teflon on it to stop the seepage. It comes out much better now.
          1978 Chrysler 85 HP, 1987 Force 85HP, 1990 Force 50 HP, 1981 Chrysler 9.9 electric start, 1966 Chrysler 9.2 and one step child 1950 Evinrude 7.5. I hoard em and they all run great.

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          • #6
            In extreme cases I use a small propane torch.
            They loosen right up.
            Heat the aluminum around the screw.

            Even with Teflon tape they still weep a bit of water.


            Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
            ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

            In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

            88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

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            • #7
              No experience with your drain plug, but when my Mercruiser's plug is too tight for my liking, I grab the impact driver and give the plug a couple of taps, comes right out...
              2001 Crestliner SuperHawk 1800, Mercruiser 140HP
              2007 Tracker 1436 jon boat, 7.5HP Force

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              • #8
                The impact driver would strip the head of the set screw used in the drain.

                ​The plug is a TINY!!! allen headed set screw, not the screw with the slot used in most applications. very poor design!
                ​The torch has never let me down even on the Mercury/OMC/Yam drain plugs.


                Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
                ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

                In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

                88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

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                • #9
                  checkout what I did when I had the problem - that AeroKroil spray was the key - just remember to wife off the excess.

                  http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...drain-plug-fix
                  2003 Malibu Sunsetter LXI, Acme 525, Radar P6 ski

                  (I still like to help with Force outboards !)

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                  • #10
                    Give it a few light taps with a hammer. That usually will help break the threads loose. Then try backing it out.

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                    • #11
                      funk, it's a set screw.
                      ​Any taps with a hammer will smoosh the soft aluminum and spread it and lock it in place.


                      Buy American made Cars and Trucks!!!Towing insurance for a boat,a GREAT thing.
                      ​Tools to make my life easier: Battery tester, die grinder, temp.gun, compression tester, DVA meter.

                      In Scenic , Beautiful San Sebastian by the sea Florida

                      88 Bayliner 21CC 2001 Mercury 225 HP EFI

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                      • #12
                        I get that's its a set screw. There are two ways to do it. Use an allen socket and tap on that, or use a drift/punch. You not looking to kill it, just a few light taps is all it usually take to jar the corrosion from the threads.

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                        • #13
                          I just snapped off a screw extractor in it, and it still won't come loose. I will probably have to drill it out and re-tap it and put in a larger, fine threaded, screw?

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                          • #14
                            AFFTAXI, if I'm not mistaken you can remove the prop and behind that remove the bottom lowest screw to drain the foot. Just remember to remove the vent screw. You can also fill the foot by use one of the two screws towards the top of the outdrive. just remember to remove both of them when refilling. I wouldn't mess with trying to drill out the drain plug. They like to allow a small amount of water to seep into the drive anyways. When filling the foot, allow extra time for the lube to settle and work out any air voids.
                            1978 Chrysler 85 HP, 1987 Force 85HP, 1990 Force 50 HP, 1981 Chrysler 9.9 electric start, 1966 Chrysler 9.2 and one step child 1950 Evinrude 7.5. I hoard em and they all run great.

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                            • #15
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                              I did basically replace the gear lube by filling thru one vent hole on top until it ran semi-clear from the other one. I say "semi-clear" because it started out as a chocolate milkshake! I am trying to get as much of the old lube out as possible so I can see if I have a Shift Seal leak. It looks like the Prop Shaft seal is brand new, so I don't know if the last guy could not get the drain plug out and left bad lube in, or what? But if I can drain it by removing a seal holder bolt, I assume that is the bolt you are talking about, I will try that first.

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