24 volt trolling motor wiring

[chenke]

I have a 95 sylvan pro select dc. In the bow control panel it has a 4 prong receptacle plug for a trolling motor plug. The top right terminal is the positive from the front battery in the boat, top left is the negative. The bottom right terminal is the positve from the back battery, the bottom left is the negative. I have a 24 volt minn kota maxxum. Doea anyone know what terminals I would use to pull 24 volts. Or do I need to split the positive wire from the trolling motor into two to connect to both positves then run one negative. Does anyone know where I can get a diagram for this standard plug receptacle. I hear they are common accessories in higher level fishing boats. Thanks for the help

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

They have nothing to do with higher level fishing boats. It is just a four terminal plug and it was included because the boat manufacturer felt it was necessary to accommodate 12 volt, 24 volt, and combination 12/24 volt motors which are scarce as hens teeth new these days. Do you currently have a mating plug for this receptacle? If you do, the diagram below shows the simplest way to do this. Note that you only need two wires since the series connection is made at the batteries rather than at the connector. Here is what you do.
1) There should be two pairs of wires (usually one red & black and one orange & black) going up front. One pair is connected to each battery.
2) Totally disconnect the orange and black pair at the battery but DO NOT cut or remove them from the boat. The next owner will thank you. Tape the ends of the wires as they won't be used.
3) Now connect the red & black pair as shown in the following diagram.
4) Make a jumper that connects the positive of the left battery to the negative of the right battery. You now have 24 volts going to the corresponding terminals at the receptacle.
5) Wire the trolling motor wires to the corresponding terminals on the plug.
6) Go fishing.
The reason I suggested the two wire system is a) four wires are unnecessary and b) it eliiminates a long run of cable that causes voltage drop.

 

[KDAVID1]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

That set up is just like my Ranger two post. and two neg which turn into 24v at the plug. Just find which two terminals on your plug and wire. I can't remember but I think I had to hook the post twice (first time was on the wrong post terminal) Hope this helps.

 

[chenke]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

That set up is just like my Ranger two post. and two neg which turn into 24v at the plug. Just find which two terminals on your plug and wire. I can't remember but I think I had to hook the post twice (first time was on the wrong post terminal) Hope this helps.

Your receptacle looks just like mine only I have two reds two blacks same difference though. My batteries are not connected in series. I have a battery up front and one at the back of the boat. They both come to this receptacle separately then have jumpers going off to other things on the control panel, batt indicator switches, cig lighter, trim switch, ect. Can I hook my trolling motor to the pos of one batt and the neg of the other and recieve 24v if they arent connected in series at the batteries

 

[KDAVID1]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

Your receptacle looks just like mine only I have two reds two blacks same difference though. My batteries are not connected in series. I have a battery up front and one at the back of the boat. They both come to this receptacle separately then have jumpers going off to other things on the control panel, batt indicator switches, cig lighter, trim switch, ect. Can I hook my trolling motor to the pos of one batt and the neg of the other and recieve 24v if they arent connected in series at the batteries

don't think that would work. Is your problem figuring out TM to plug wiring? Are you going from 4 wire to two wire plug?

 

[sschefer]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

If your batteries are actually in series then the red from the battery up front is proably 24v and the back battery is where you're getting your 12v from. If that's the case, Silvertips statement about the motors that needed 12 and 24 volts is what your plug is setup for. Some of the old Minn-Kota's were that way, the motor ran on 24v and the steering ran on 12. If you have a newer motor you can replace that receptacle with the correct one for your motor and be done with it.

 

[KDAVID1]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

If your batteries are actually in series then the red from the battery up front is proably 24v and the back battery is where you're getting your 12v from. If that's the case, Silvertips statement about the motors that needed 12 and 24 volts is what your plug is setup for. Some of the old Minn-Kota's were that way, the motor ran on 24v and the steering ran on 12. If you have a newer motor you can replace that receptacle with the correct one for your motor and be done with it.

exactly

 

[chenke]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

don't think that would work. Is your problem figuring out TM to plug wiring? Are you going from 4 wire to two wire plug?

Yes TM to plug. My batteries are not connected to each other. If This receptacle is capable of putting out 24v it would be because there is an link connecting the terminals inside the receptacle itself, therefore I would wire a four prong plug onto the two wires of my trolling motor only using two of the prongs. I would just have to figure out which terminals of the receptacle are linked creating 24v. The four terminals of the receptacle are just like battery posts. Even if the batteries come in separately, if there is an internal link between the positve terminal of one batery and the negative of the negative terminal of the other battery, then technically I should be able to connect to the opposite pos and neg and get the proper volts. Correct?

 

[chenke]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

don't think that would work. Is your problem figuring out TM to plug wiring? Are you going from 4 wire to two wire plug?

Yes TM to plug. My batteries are not connected to each other. If This receptacle is capable of putting out 24v it would be because there is an link connecting the terminals inside the receptacle itself, therefore I would wire a four prong plug onto the two wires of my trolling motor only using two of the prongs. I would just have to figure out which terminals of the receptacle are linked creating 24v. The four terminals of the receptacle are just like battery posts. Even if the batteries come in separately, if there is an internal link between the positve terminal of one batery and the negative of the negative terminal of the other battery, then technically I should be able to connect to the opposite pos and neg and get the proper volts. Correct?

 

[KDAVID1]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

Yes TM to plug. My batteries are not connected to each other. If This receptacle is capable of putting out 24v it would be because there is an link connecting the terminals inside the receptacle itself, therefore I would wire a four prong plug onto the two wires of my trolling motor only using two of the prongs. I would just have to figure out which terminals of the receptacle are linked creating 24v. The four terminals of the receptacle are just like battery posts. Even if the batteries come in separately, if there is an internal link between the positve terminal of one batery and the negative of the negative terminal of the other battery, then technically I should be able to connect to the opposite pos and neg and get the proper volts. Correct?

Ok--yes if your TM has only two wires (fyi--my old tm was 12/24v and had 4 wires--my new TM is 2 wire straight 24) the plug does have a jumper that brings all together. If I remember correctly you hook the pos. to the terminal that does not have the jumper (but can't remember for sure) but it is no big deal-I had to do mine twice--the first hook up I noticed the TM was not getting enough juice. I moved the pos. connection and all was well.

 

[chenke]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

Ok--yes if your TM has only two wires (fyi--my old tm was 12/24v and had 4 wires--my new TM is 2 wire straight 24) the plug does have a jumper that brings all together. If I remember correctly you hook the pos. to the terminal that does not have the jumper (but can't remember for sure) but it is no big deal-I had to do mine twice--the first hook up I noticed the TM was not getting enough juice. I moved the pos. connection and all was well.

There is no jumper wire on the back of the receptacle, so either its inside or theres not one at all and its only good for 12/24

 

[chenke]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

Ok--yes if your TM has only two wires (fyi--my old tm was 12/24v and had 4 wires--my new TM is 2 wire straight 24) the plug does have a jumper that brings all together. If I remember correctly you hook the pos. to the terminal that does not have the jumper (but can't remember for sure) but it is no big deal-I had to do mine twice--the first hook up I noticed the TM was not getting enough juice. I moved the pos. connection and all was well.

There is no jumper wire on the back of the receptacle, so either its inside or theres not one at all and its only good for 12/24

 

[KDAVID1]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

There is no jumper wire on the back of the receptacle, so either its inside or theres not one at all and its only good for 12/24

It's inside--its a little metal bar. Like above you just have to put your wires on the correct stud--no big deal.

 

[chenke]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

It's inside--its a little metal bar. Like above you just have to put your wires on the correct stud--no big deal.

Thanks for the info. I didnt want to have to bother with rewiring it since there are a bunch of jumpers going to all the other forward controls.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

Regardless what you do some rewiring is necessary. Your batteries are not in series or parallel. There are two separate circuits (one from each battery going to the receptacle --hence the four wires. To get 24 volts from this system you need a matching four pin trolling motor plug that has the jumpers in it. Or you could just do what I suggested, eliminate a long run (two actually) that eliminates unnecessary voltage drop and use just two pins. Simple, and far less chance to make sparks. If you insist on using whatever plug you have AND it OR the receptacle has screw type wiring connections in it, you need to make the series connection at the receptacle or the troller plug. If you have properly identified the receptacle connections as you indicated in your first post, then a jumper between the upper right terminal on the receptacle to the lower left terminal on the receptacle is necessary. You will then have +24 volts from the Lower right terminal on the receptacle and ground at the upper right terminal. Now remember that the terminals I just mentioned are at the RECEPTACLE. If you make the connections at the plug, the plug is a mirror image of the receptacle.

 

[KDAVID1]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

and yes--Silvertip is the expert on wiring--I just know my specific set up

 

[chenke]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

Regardless what you do some rewiring is necessary. Your batteries are not in series or parallel. There are two separate circuits (one from each battery going to the receptacle --hence the four wires. To get 24 volts from this system you need a matching four pin trolling motor plug that has the jumpers in it. Or you could just do what I suggested, eliminate a long run (two actually) that eliminates unnecessary voltage drop and use just two pins. Simple, and far less chance to make sparks. If you insist on using whatever plug you have AND it OR the receptacle has screw type wiring connections in it, you need to make the series connection at the receptacle or the troller plug. If you have properly identified the receptacle connections as you indicated in your first post, then a jumper between the upper right terminal on the receptacle to the lower left terminal on the receptacle is necessary. You will then have +24 volts from the Lower right terminal on the receptacle and ground at the upper right terminal. Now remember that the terminals I just mentioned are at the RECEPTACLE. If you make the connections at the plug, the plug is a mirror image of the receptacle.

I thought about putting a second batt in the back and taking the lead to the front off of my starting batt, at least that way the TM wouldnt be pulling juice from that. Then I would have to do like you said and form the series at the plug. The problem was that the leads coming from each batt have jumpers connected at the receptacle. The bow battery runs the cig lighter, courtesy light and batt meter switch. The starting battery runs the trim switch and batt meter switch. If i ran two batteries in series at the bow it would then cause a prob with the voltage to the accessories. I think what im going to do is put the the cig lighter and courtesy light on with the starting battery so all accessories are run off that. Then ill run my two battery series in the bow bringing 24v into the top of the receptacle. Then I should be able to just wire the top two prongs of my 4 prong plug. There would still be 12v going to the bottom of the receptacle from the rear battery, but at that point its just a fancy wire nut connecting the accessories. At this point I would just have to replace or leave disconnected the battery meter switch that used to monitor the front battery assuming it wont accept 24v. Is my thinking correct on all of this. The trolling motor will be on its own series as it should and the rear battery is just powering the accessories.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

I thought about putting a second batt in the back and taking the lead to the front off of my starting batt, at least that way the TM wouldnt be pulling juice from that. Then I would have to do like you said and form the series at the plug. The problem was that the leads coming from each batt have jumpers connected at the receptacle. The bow battery runs the cig lighter, courtesy light and batt meter switch. The starting battery runs the trim switch and batt meter switch. If i ran two batteries in series at the bow it would then cause a prob with the voltage to the accessories. I think what im going to do is put the the cig lighter and courtesy light on with the starting battery so all accessories are run off that. Then ill run my two battery series in the bow bringing 24v into the top of the receptacle. Then I should be able to just wire the top two prongs of my 4 prong plug. There would still be 12v going to the bottom of the receptacle from the rear battery, but at that point its just a fancy wire nut connecting the accessories. At this point I would just have to replace or leave disconnected the battery meter switch that used to monitor the front battery assuming it wont accept 24v. Is my thinking correct on all of this. The trolling motor will be on its own series as it should and the rear battery is just powering the accessories.

Without a diagrqam of your plan to look at I will not comment. Wire nuts are hardly the device of choice for making electrical connections on a boat.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

There is no jumper wire on the back of the receptacle, so either its inside or theres not one at all and its only good for 12/24

If your plug/receptacle looks like, and is wired up like what KD posted up, then he's right, you need to jumper the plug. "The plug" creates the series connection when it's inserted into the receptacle, and gives the TM 24V from 2- 12V batteries. If there is no jumper plate inside the plug, then make a jumper. Take 3-4 inches of wire heavy gauge wire and jumper "inside the plug", negative from batt A to the positive of batt B, this will create your series connection. (FWIW, one of my plugs didn't come with the jumper and I had to make the jumper.)

KD's plug wiring looks good to me, but I can't make out which pin is which. Connect 1 battery at a time so you can figure out which pins are for each battery. I would insert the white part of the plug into the base, grab a volt meter and check which pins are for batt A and batt B, positive and negative, then wire it like this;

batt A + > trolling motor + wire
batt A - jumpered to batt B + (inside plug)
batt B - > trolling motor - wire

Your plug wiring will look like KD's when finished.

BTW, the pics KD posted is a Marinco 12/24 receptacle and plug. Though they don't have much for documentation showing how to wire it up....

 

[chenke]

Re: 24 volt trolling motor wiring

Without a diagrqam of your plan to look at I will not comment. Wire nuts are hardly the device of choice for making electrical connections on a boat.

I was saying that I would bring 24v into the top of the tm receptacle by running two batteries in series in the front of the boat. Ill use a four prong plug but only wire the top prongs. At the bottom of the receptacle there will still be 12v coming from the rear battery it just wont be used for anything as far as the tm goes therefore making the bottom terminals of the receptacle a connection point for that battery to connect to and power the 12v accessory switches on that panel. ( A fancy wire nut) I know better than to use wire nuts on a boat. Any wiring I do will be with proper connectors and shrink tube.