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Fuel Flow Meter

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  • Fuel Flow Meter

    I have a chance to get a new Floscan 5520-264-2 for a steal. I have a single 188hp Mercruiser gas I/O, and I'm trying to see if I can use it. The Floscan site's model selector guide doesn't list this model anymore, so I'm unsure if it's the right one. I do realize that I would need to 'upgrade' to the 20B due to the ethanol problem they had with the o-ring in the 264, but I'm under the impression that the 5520-264-2 has 2 sensors/sending units, and one does not have the o-ring. Is that correct? If I understand correctly, the 5520 can work with up to a 20gph flow rate(?)

    Also, it says to install after the fuel filter, but before the pump. Do they mean any filter, or the FWS?
    1994 Bayliner Capri 1604 w/94 70 Force (sold)
    1984 SportCraft 222 OFF w/84 Mercruiser 488 & Alpha 1
    1979 Sears Gamefisher 13'6" Aluminum w/1959 Johnson 10HP
    1969 Smokin' Hot Wife

  • #2
    Re: Fuel Flow Meter

    Beefer...the correct model for your boat should be the 5532-20B-1, but any one of them on the 5500 (Cruisemaster) series will work. The one you need is based on the engine HP and with your engine/outdrive combo, I would assume you fall into the 201-350 HP range. This would be the 0-32 GPH scale. If you fall under 201 HP, you can easily use the 5520.

    The 55XX is the number of GPH the guage reads. 5510=0-10 GPH; 5520=0-20; 5532=0-32...

    The other models would work (0-10 GPH, 0-20 GPH), but you may peg them on 3/4 to WOT. Depends on your boat.

    The 2 sensors you are describing are the number for twin engines (20B-1; single engine...264-2; twin engines). You obviously only need to install 1 sensor. The 20B sensor installs between the tank and the fuel pump, usually after the fuel filter/FWS. The 231 sensor is made for 150HP+ OUTBOARDS.

    I have been running a FloScan scan setup for years and think they are great. The only problem is that it let's you know how much fuel you are burning!!
    2001 Carver Voyager 374 'Stick's Competition'

    Something tells me I should be on the water....

    If I answer your upholstery questions, it's only because I've been doing it 20+ years...

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    • #3
      Re: Fuel Flow Meter

      Fireman, thanks!
      I called Floscan, and found out that this set is at least 8 yrs old, and was the recommended unit for my engine (188hp). The difference between the 264 and the 20B sensor, is that the 264 has a rubber diaphragm that can (will?) deteriorate with exposure to E10 fuels. Fortunately for me, I have access to non-ethanol fuel, so I shouldn't have to worry, but I'll be keeping an eye open. Since the set has 2 sensors, I'll have a spare.

      Picked it up as a clearance item, new in the box for $70. I think I did well.
      1994 Bayliner Capri 1604 w/94 70 Force (sold)
      1984 SportCraft 222 OFF w/84 Mercruiser 488 & Alpha 1
      1979 Sears Gamefisher 13'6" Aluminum w/1959 Johnson 10HP
      1969 Smokin' Hot Wife

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      • #4
        Re: Fuel Flow Meter

        Nice find. Where'd you get it if you don't mind me asking?

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        • #5
          Re: Fuel Flow Meter

          Originally posted by Beefer View Post
          I called Floscan, and found out that this set is at least 8 yrs old, and was the recommended unit for my engine (188hp). The difference between the 264 and the 20B sensor, is that the 264 has a rubber diaphragm that can (will?) deteriorate with exposure to E10 fuels.
          E10 has been around a lot longer than 8 years. It's even listed as being acceptable for my '88 Force outboard. I think you would be fine with E10 should you be forced to use it at some point.
          Bob, Seneca Lake NY
          '88 Bayliner 1700 Capri bowrider, 85 HP Force O/B, "Sea Weasel"
          '94 Grumman Fish'N Fun pontoon, 40 HP Merc
          Want a vessel safety check? Click here. Want to join the Coast Guard Auxiliary? Click here.
          Disclaimer: Although I am a member of the USCG Auxiliary, the opinions and advice in my replies are my own and do not necessarily reflect CG or CG Auxiliary policy or regulations unless so specified.

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          • #6
            Re: Fuel Flow Meter

            Originally posted by Beefer View Post
            Picked it up as a clearance item, new in the box for $70. I think I did well.
            You stole it. A typical dual engine setup should run $325-$400. I just purchased a new gauge (they call it a meterhead) from Floscan and it...alone...was $125.00. My GPH needle reading still works just fine, but the total GPH LCD readout has gone blank. I know how much I'm burning per hour, but I don't have the total. I have a 250 mile trip coming up and I want to keep an eye on it.

            I wonder if I can sell the meterhead on eBay and recoup a little $$$?

            By the way Beefer...you're in Florida...check this thread:

            http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=458161
            2001 Carver Voyager 374 'Stick's Competition'

            Something tells me I should be on the water....

            If I answer your upholstery questions, it's only because I've been doing it 20+ years...

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Fuel Flow Meter

              Originally posted by Fireman431 View Post
              My GPH needle reading still works just fine, but the total GPH LCD readout has gone blank.

              By the way Beefer...you're in Florida...check this thread:

              http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=458161
              Hi Fireman....the total readout is on a seperate circuit, isn't it? A constant 12V for memory.

              Good Luck, Beefer!
              BOAT=Best Of All Times

              "Everyday above ground is a good day"

              Winterization=sneekers, jeans and a sweater.

              Same Ship.....Different Day.

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              • #8
                Sign up today
                Re: Fuel Flow Meter

                Originally posted by sasto View Post
                Hi Fireman....the total readout is on a seperate circuit, isn't it? A constant 12V for memory.
                The readout does have a constant 12v, but I'm not sure if it has separate circuit. My original thought was to simply replace the LCD display, but I couldn't find any suitable replacement. I didn't want to add another thing in the dash, just wanted the original equipment look. I think the constant 12v is what killed the display. It never shuts off. 24 hours per day x 365 days per year x 10 years is over 86,000 hours of readout. I can't imagine why it finally broke...

                But if someone wanted to wire in a separate LCD display, it should work just fine.
                2001 Carver Voyager 374 'Stick's Competition'

                Something tells me I should be on the water....

                If I answer your upholstery questions, it's only because I've been doing it 20+ years...

                Comment

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