3.0 oil coil harness used for electronic ignition

[savetexomabeaches]

I'm building a 3.0 and the block set up has the electronic ignition and plug in coil (Not the oil filled one) the current harness I have used the old coil and points style. Having only a purple and gray wire leading over. The rest of the wires are pretty much the same. Now my belief is and I may be wrong I can splice those to a plug for my new coil and tie in a green white from the other distributor side to run to the shift cut off switch? Or am I wrong here

 

[alldodge]

Which distributor EST, TB or other?

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Est

 

[alldodge]

Current points harness used the interrupt switch to apply a ground to the (-) side of the coil. The EST uses 12V to the interrupt switch to apply power to distributor

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Thanks that will help a lot. Also I have a carb with an enrichment solenoid on it.. the old style had the purple wire that plugged into the carb and a black ground wire.. this one has a 2 wire plug on it. I assume one is ground and the other is powered from?

 

[alldodge]

It sounds like its a Turn Key Start (TKS) carb and while your correct for power and ground, there is more circuity needed to make it work correctly. Many have tossed the carbs because there trouble but others have done ok.

This is a simplistic wiring diagram of how its done. The TKS module is the carb connection

 

[savetexomabeaches]

So basically run a fused hot to it and a ground off the temp switch in the thermo housing brown wire.

 

[alldodge]

Not really, the TKS carb is designed to work similar like a carb with a choke.

With motor cold, motor is started

With motor running the oil pressure switch closes and applies a ground to the TKS module and it starts to heat up

The motor reaches operating temp, the TKS module extends a pin to close off the excess fuel opening and leans the carb out (like a choke plate opening)

With motor fully warmed up the temp switch closes and maintains a ground on the module, which keeps the pin extended and closed. The temp switch is also used to sound the alarm if the lube bottle is emptied or it looses oil pressure

If motor is shut down, the temp switch keeps a ground on the module to keep pin closed. It power was not maintained, the pin would extend and would give more fuel to motor or restart (same as closing the choke on a warm motor)

Here is the TKS manual
http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser41.html#/0

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Ok so mine has the single wire brown temp and single wire blue oil. No lube bottle, no alarm. Much newer carb I'm guessing

 

[alldodge]

Not really, the carb is newer but your boat harness is not. There is a TKS carb harness which is added to use the carb correctly. Use it if you want, but it won't work as designed unless things are changed to accommodate.

Blue wire goes to oil pressure gauge sender (TKS needs additional oil pressure switch)
Brown wire goes to Temp gauge sender

After your comment I redid the diagram to make it easier to follow, and the lube bottle really has nothing to do with the operation

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Ok so is there a way to use this carb and have it function and bypass this electronic solenoid (add 12v to it or leave it unplugged ) engine is on, not going in a boat for awhile.. had first start Friday, trying to set timing and such but won't idle and seems like it's flooding. Carb wires currently unplugged due to incorrect harness (lack of )

 

[alldodge]

If it actually is flooding when cold then carb needs a rebuild. If its just running rich then that's ok so long as it stops when warmed up

The module has to be plugged in to a full time 12V source.

The ground lead needs to go to an oil pressure switch that will close and ground the other lead from module once motor starts. Need to add a switch maybe with a Tee fitting where to oil pressure gauge is located.

A Temp switch should also be added but is not absolute need to work. Its only needed to keep extra fuel being burned. If switch is not connected to same ground lead going to oil pressure switch, then enrichment pin will retract. Once retracted the motor will run rich again (if already warm) until pin extends

You could connect one of the module leads to ground, and the other to supply 12V when key is turned ON. This would start the warming cycle and extend the pin. Not a good solution but will work the same as not installing either of the other switches. That said; would need to install a relay to supply power to module because I think the additional load on the ignition circuit may blow the ignition fuse/breaker.

 

[savetexomabeaches]

Ok I haven't gave up, been busy putting a motor in a falcon. But here I am. I got the t for the oil pressure and added a switch. It's a 3 wire plug. Grey and black/purple are the 2 too wires and blue/Orange bottom wire. Which would be the ground needed to hook to the tks carb? Also the tks carb plug has 2 wires the same color.. which is which

 

[alldodge]

Might need a pic

Does the oil switch have 3 prongs or only the plug, or both

Also the tks carb plug has 2 wires the same color

Shouldn't matter which is hot and which is ground
Don't forget the 20 amp fuse

 

[savetexomabeaches]

[No message]

 

[savetexomabeaches]

3 wires on both

 

[savetexomabeaches]

[No message]

 

[savetexomabeaches]

[No message]

 

[alldodge]

I think I understand, we are having a terminology issue.
Normally

Black/Purple = Black wire with a purple stripe
Purple/Black = Purple wire with Black stripe

You have 3 wires which are Black, White and purple

Using post 10 diagram
Purple wire from oil pressure switch plug goes to one side of the temp switch and one side of the TKS module

Black wire from oil pressure switch plug goes to ground

White wire from oil pressure switch plug goes to ground side of alarm which should be Tan/Blue (tan wire with Blue stripe)

The other side of the TKS module goes to 20 amp fuse then to 50 amp main breaker on the Red/Purple wire side

 

[alldodge]

To verify oil switch pin out, use a ohm meter and connect to pin that goes to black and White wire pin and it should be zero ohms. Going from Black pin to purple pin it should be real high ohms