Its not unheard of, but sometimes a breaker can go bad. To verify take a 20 amp fuse and connect in place of the breaker. The breaker needs to be tripped if it is left in the circuit
Hooked up 20amp fuse, boat ran the longest it has, tach worked then cut out but came back if I rev the boat. Fuse housing started to melt and leads were getting hot so I turned off boat. The fuse never tripped but I'm assusming it woud had I let it run longer
Look much closer at the alternator, there has to be more then 2 wires. If there is only 2 wires (someone replaced ALT with a one wire type), then find the wires that use to be connected to make sure they are not damaged
I think this is the Ah Ha moment
Someone cut the Red/Purple (Main power from Battery) and is using the smaller Purple wire to power everything on the motor. The Red/Purple should go to the 50 amp breaker, from there thru the engine connector to the key switch
By cutting the Red/Purple everything is back feeding in both directions and everything is going thru the key switch
With the Red/Purple connected to Purple, there is no way to turn the key OFF and stop the motor or stop power going to the choke coil. So the "DA" cut the connection (which should not have been there to begin with) and now everything goes thru the key switch
The two colors that you are unsure of are orange on the left and brown on the right. The wire in the blue clip is not a red/purple. It is a red wire that runs down to the oil pressure sensor and then another red wire runs off the other tab. The main red/purple is there in the middle of the wire bundle. There is also a red/purple at the breaker.
The two colors that you are unsure of are orange on the left and brown on the right. The wire in the blue clip is not a red/purple. It is a red wire that runs down to the oil pressure sensor and then another red wire runs off the other tab. The main red/purple is there in the middle of the wire bundle. There is also a red/purple at the breaker.
I checked all of the wires under the dash and tested resistance and current. I verified that the issue is back by the engine. I started to check resistance and current at the wires that were taken off the factory wiring harness. One red wire went to the oil pressure switch and then out to electric fuel pump which was an add on. The measured current on the fuel pump was 12.87 amps. My next step was to remove the fuel pump from the ignition circuit and temporary wire it on it's own circuit. This resulted in the engine running smoothly and the ignition fuse not tripping. I put a 20 amp fuse on the fuel pump circuit and the wires got hot and started to melt the plastic housing on the fuse. From what I have read the pump should draw around 3 to 6 amps. Looks like the pump is defective.
