My boat (Sea Ray 210) has an alternator, right?

momo2000

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Jun 25, 2008
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1999 Sea Ray 210 I/O. I’ve had it for a about 5 years, but it seems as though the battery is always going dead (and I've replaced and just tested the battery). We didn’t use it very much the first few years we had it but the last two we have used it more (maybe 10X/season) and now I’m thinking I have a charging system problem. Battery seems to only drain, and I always take the "Jump & Carry" with me and have to use it about half the time (annoying). I’m going to try to troubleshoot and see what I can find over the holiday weekend, but wanted to ask a few questions that might help me with troubleshooting: #1. This boat would be expected to have an alternator, right . . . so the battery should be getting charged when running? #2. I’m handy with a multi-meter and have change alternators on cars (10+ years ago) but any suggesting for troubleshooting the charging system to track down the culprit?
 

GA_Boater

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1999 Sea Ray 210 I/O tells us absolutely nothing. What brand of motor is spinning the belt that turns the alternator. We need that to help you troubleshoot the charging system.
 

momo2000

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Jun 25, 2008
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OK thanks for the reply. I know it is a GM engine. I'll go do some research this week and post back to this thread with more details. Thanks so much.
 

Silvertip

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Sep 22, 2003
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Does your boat have a VOLT gauge on the dash? It would help to start the engine, rev to about 1500 and see what it says. 12 volts or less the battery is NOT charging. 13 - 14.6 it is. Or, disconnect the Positive terminal at the battery when you park the boat. If the battery was charged when you left it but not when you return you have a bad battery. Intermittent battery issues are another set of issues. Terminals at the battery and the engine need to be shiny clean and bright. Corroded terminals can mimic a weak battery.
 

momo2000

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Hey all. I know it has been 6 weeks, but I haven't been to the boat until TODAY. FYI: I did bring the battery back with me last time and had it tested, battery is OK. My believe is that the "charging system is not operating correctly. Today, I was able to take some good photos and find the alternator ;) See 4 photos attached. I plan to go back up these weekend and run some tests to troubleshoot. The alternator is in a very easy to access spot and looks easier than some auto altenators I changed back in the day. However, I hate to just change it without testing it. I'm looking for troubleshooting steps that I can run through this weekend. I'm decent mechanically and can run a multi-meter. Any steps, or link to a troubleshooting flow chart would be appreciated.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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unbolt the alternator and take it to your local starter and alternator rebuild shop. they will test it.
bring your battery too and have that tested.

what voltage are you seeing on the dash when its off and when its running
 

Bondo

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I'm looking for troubleshooting steps that I can run through this weekend.

Ayuh,...... Turn the key "On",.....

Dash voltage gauge should be 'round 12v,.....

Start the motor, 'n rev to 'bout 1200 rpms,.....

Dash gauge should show 'bout 13.6v,......

The alternator is workin',.....

With the motor runnin', you should see 'bout 13.6v with a meter on the orange with on the alternator,.....
 

momo2000

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Jun 25, 2008
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Thanks Scott and Bondo! I didn't run those test exactly yesterday, but here is what I did observe. When running, the Voltage Gage on the dash was between 12.0 and 12.25. When I put in neutral and revved the engine, it did not increase, but moved lower, ever so slightly. When I hit the trim button, the gauge moved significantly lower while the button (and trim motor was activated), maybe 2 volts lower. OK, I was just wondering if there were any test I should run before I take the alternator out (to test in place while running to validate if good/bad BEFORE I take out) and have tested (like is there a separate voltage regulator like there used to be in older cars, or is that builtin in the alternator these days), or may there be any bad connections. If anyone has any suggestions, I'll try that, OTHERWISE, I'm going to go remove the alternator (and batter) and take to a "starter and alternator rebuild shop". I live on the north side of Atlanta (Lake Lanier) so I'm guessing this should be easy to find, going to search for one now. I'll update on my progress after the weekend.
 

Bondo

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I was just wondering if there were any test I should run before I take the alternator out (to test in place while running to validate if good/bad BEFORE I take out)

Ayuh,..... Check the voltage at the orange wire on the back of the unit,.....

If it ain't 13.6v, it ain't chargin',.....
 

momo2000

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Jun 25, 2008
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Great, I can do that. Just to be clear, there are 4 wires connected to my alternator. I should see 13.6v between the two larger gage wires (black and orange in my case). Not the two smaller gage wires (red and purple in my case).
ALSO, assuming that I am correct, that the two larger gage wires charge the battery, what are the two smaller gage wires for?
 

momo2000

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Jun 25, 2008
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OK. After doing a bunch more reading on the net tonight I believe that the small gauge red wire should go to the positive side of the battery and should read 12V+ at all times. The small gauge purple wire goes to the ignition switch and should only read 12V+ when the ignition switch is in the on position. Hopefully on Thursday, I'm going to check that these two wires are functioning properly FIRST. THEN if yes, check the output of the Alternator. If still no output, remove and take to starter/alternator shop that I found today. Thanks so much for the comments, and helping me sort this out. I will report back my findings.
 

nola mike

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Check your voltage at the battery when it's running. Don't use the gauges.
 

wahlejim

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Best $40 I have spent. Granted I have over 30 vehicles and pieces of equipment at work that use 12v batteries, but an invaluable tool nonetheless.

71Mc87ocCWL._SY879_.jpg
 

momo2000

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Jun 25, 2008
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OK, solved! I went to the boat this AM and here are my test plan and results.
#1. Installed a freshly charged battery. With engine off, checked voltage at battery, and it was 12.58V. Good.
#2. With engine off, checked voltage from the connection on the back of the alternator where the small gauge RED wire is connected (negative side of meter to engine block ground). This is presumably the one that goes to the battery to “sense” the current state of the battery. Voltage was 12.58V also. Good.
#3. With engine off, checked voltage from the connection on the back of the alternator where the small gauge PURPLE wire is connected (negative side of meter to engine block ground). This is presumably the one that goes to the ignition switch to “turn on” the alternator. Key off = 0V, Key on = 12.30V. Good.
#4. Getting ready to test voltage from back of the alternator and I remove the rubber boot from the large gauge ORANGE wire and realized that the wire is loose! Hmm, could this be my problem. I tighten it up.
#5. Connected meter with alligator clips to the connection on the back of the alternator where the large gauge ORANGE wire is connected. Negative side connected to the connection on the back of the alternator where the large gauge BLACK wire is connected. Started engine and meter shows 13.8V. Good, alternator is generating power and doing its job.
#6. Go back to battery and reconnect meter. Start engine. Voltage reads 12.44V. Not good. Something is happening between the alternator and the battery.
#7. Waste an hour scratching my head and tracing wires. Then it occurs to me that I never “revved” the engine to get the RPMs up to at least 1500. Reconnect meter to battery and start engine, still 12.3-12.4. Then I rev the engine and get 13.5V – 14.2V Yes!!!!
#8. Declare victory and “convince myself” that the loose wire on the back of the alternator must be the issue. Pack up and head home. Will get the boat out for a real run this weekend and confirm that it is really solved.
#9. On the drive back home it occurs to me that I never glanced at the in dash voltage meter when testing and saw 13.8V+ on the meter, because , if I saw that go “in the positive direction” which it hasn’t been, that really would have convinced me. Will check that this weekend.

So, I am declaring victory until otherwise. Thanks for all the suggestions and feedback on this post. I really appreciate the help. Great people, great forum.
 

momo2000

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Jun 25, 2008
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Confirmed solved!!! Got the boat out on the lake (Lanier) tonight. I can 100% confirm that this is solved and it was the loose wire. Thanks so much!
 
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