spectrum pro avenger 17 foot 1995

[rcb130]

Hello,
replacing ignition switch on the above boat. Now it will not turn over. Gauges work. Here is how I wired it, I thought it was like the original wiring. It is a push to choke 6 terminal switch exactly the same as the original.
C- Yel/blk
S- Yel/red
M- Blk/yel
I- Purple
M-Blk
B- Red/blk

Can anyone see anything wrong with the above wiring?
Thanks
rcb130

 

[GA_Boater]

Can anyone see anything wrong with the above wiring?

Yeah. What is the other end of the wiring connected to?

 

[rcb130]

The motor is a 1996 Force 75Hp
rcb130

 

[Silvertip]

So what prompted you to replace the original ignition switch?

 

[rcb130]

sometimes the motor would turn over, other times it would not. Blowing fuse under dash

 

[Silvertip]

So your immediate diagnosis was to replace the ignition switch! The "no turn over" coupled with "blown fuse" are the clues here. The ignition switch sends current down the wire to the engine. If the switch was the bad part the fuse would not blow because current could not leave the switch. So you need to look at the wiring associated with the switch position that blew the fuse. If turning the switch to RUN blew the fuse, you look at circuits powered by the run position (these are not associated with the starter). If the fuse blew when you turned the key to START, you have a start circuit, solenoid, starter issue.

 

[rcb130]

Understood. Just trying to get it to turn over when the key is set to start. Let us get back to my original question. Is there anything wrong with the wiring I indicated? I appreciate your diagnosis of the fuse problem.
thanks
rcb130

 

[rcb130]

can anyone confirm the wiring as correct or incorrect?
thanksrcb130

 

[Silvertip]

OK one more time! If the blown fuse was the cause for the engine not turning over, is that not a possibility again? You never explained what fuse was blown or if the two events were even related. You can confirm the wiring is correct as follows:

Using a voltmeter:
Connect the negative meter lead to a "known good ground".
Touch the positive meter lead to the "B" terminal on the switch. Meter should read battery voltage. If not - fix it.
Turn the key to the RUN position and touch the "I" terminal on the switch with the positive meter lead. You should see battery voltage. If not, fix it.
Hold the positive meter lead on the "S" terminal and turn the key to START. Should see battery voltage. If not, fix it.
Place the positive meter lead on the "C" terminal and with the key in the RUN position, push in on the key. This activates the choke/primer. Should see battery voltage. If not, fix it.
The two "M" terminals are the ignition kill circuit. Put the two meter leads across the two terminals and set the meter to read OHMS. With the kill switch lanyard installed, the meter should read open circuit. Pulling the lanyard should cause the meter to read closed circuit. If not, fix it.
Without a Force wiring diagram I cannot provide any more help/.