2nd battery in a 1988 Bayliner Capri 1700

sopwithcamel74

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2018
Messages
203
I'm doing extensive planning for the restoration of my '88 Capri 1700, powered by a Force 85 outboard; those plans include adding a 2nd battery. The plan is to use a 24 group starting battery, a 24 group deep-cycle house battery, and a Perko 4-way battery selector switch.

I also intend to beefing up the stereo system (head unit, 4 2-way speakers, 1 or 2 subs, power amplifier), adding an automatic bilge pump, a few outlets for charging accessories, and some modest deck lighting.

For as much as I've researched this topic, I'm having a difficult time finding examples of how those with boats of this size (or smaller, and that aren't dedicated fishing boats with extensive deck storage) have theirs set up from a layout standpoint. The existing battery tray is under the starboard jump seat; I'll be rebuilding the seat boxes from bow to stern, so modifying the factory layout is an option.

I'm 99% committed to these chosen components/features, and I've already made most of the purchases. Weight distribution re: the batteries themselves is one of the things that's given me pause - despite the fact most of my outings will be with the family (wife, 2 small kids) in tow, I'm questioning how smart it is to keep the current layout and load that much weight into the back corner of the boat.

I think we'd still be fine re: storage if I opt to sacrifice the storage underneath the port side jump seat for 1 of the batteries; I've also debated moving both of them to the area underneath the dashes, but don't know if it's 'best practice' having that long of a cable run between the starting battery and my engine, even if I go with a heavy gauge wire.

Given the wealth of knowledge and experience found here, would some of you please share your thoughts and opinions on how you'd personally design the layout for this type of setup? I apologize ahead of time if this has been addressed, and will gladly do some more reading if someone can point me in the right direction.
 

Saddlehorse

Seaman
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
63
Not sure if this helps, but i placed my second battery on front portside in the storage compartn the bow area to offset the weight some, worked out for me.
 

sopwithcamel74

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2018
Messages
203
Not sure if this helps, but i placed my second battery on front portside in the storage compartn the bow area to offset the weight some, worked out for me.

That does help; thank you very much for sharing. At this point, I'm just curious how any else has executed this, and how well their idea(s) have worked for them.

How is your system wired, if you don't mind me asking?
 

sopwithcamel74

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2018
Messages
203
Been purchasing odds and ends for this project as I await the time when I can begin doing actual work. This isn't a complete list, and it also has a few items that have nothing to do with the electrical system. And I've got a LOT left to purchase.

2 24-group battery trays
1 24-group starting battery
1 24-group deep cycle battery
Circuit test light
Soldering iron, solder, heat shrink
Ignition switch
12-circuit marine fuse block
2 8-circuit terminal blocks
4 2-way marine speakers
Locking glove box
Ski locker hatch and frame
Marine compass
Portable fuel tank (until I troubleshoot and resolve the issues with the built-in)
Fuel filter
Earmuffs
Inspection mirror
Sander
Polisher/buffer
Heat gun
Digital calipers
Wire brushes
Sea Foam
Lower unit fill pump
2-stroke motor oil
Lower unit oil
Drain plugs

The not doing anything part is killing me, but checking things off my shopping list provides some satisfaction. I'm dying to break out the saws and grinders, start ripping things apart, then figuring out what I'll be salvaging and what else I'll be replacing. I'm ready to start buying lumber, fiberglass mat, poly resin, carpet, and vinyl.

Doing lots of replacements - both for existing equipment on the boat, as well as for my tools. Figured this is as good an excuse as any to do so on the tool front, and some of the stuff on the boat was either broken/non-functioning or in a state of disrepair.

Still undecided on which direction I'll go a few things I've yet to buy. But I've got a lot of time to decide, too.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
The minute you mentioned POWER AMP you put yourself into a minimum group 27 size deep cycle battery. Remember, your 85hp Force engine will not keep both batteries topped off. You also need an onboard charger to keep the deep cycle fully charged after an outing. That charger should have dual outputs so both the starting and house batteries are cared for.
 

sopwithcamel74

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2018
Messages
203
The minute you mentioned POWER AMP you put yourself into a minimum group 27 size deep cycle battery. Remember, your 85hp Force engine will not keep both batteries topped off. You also need an onboard charger to keep the deep cycle fully charged after an outing. That charger should have dual outputs so both the starting and house batteries are cared for.

My design for the electrical system includes a 2 bank marine charger. I'll be expanding the jump seats a bit forward; starting battery will stay in the starboard one, the deep cycle is going to port. Additionally, I'll be adding a bulkhead to one of the two in order to isolate the charger (overkill, but I'll feel better about it).

For a typical day out, amp hours for the stereo system alone would be right around 70 on average, but could easily be double that on longer days. The setup I've mapped out should handle this pretty easily by my estimation.
 

sopwithcamel74

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2018
Messages
203
So, here's where I'm at with planning this out.

At the heart: starting battery, house battery, 2 bank marine charger, mini dual circuit plus by Blue Sea Systems.

Float switch for bilge and memory wire for stereo connected directly to the house battery, bypassing the switch.

Post #1 from the switch (starting) - two leads - one to the engine, the other to the charger.
Post #2 from the switch (house) - three leads - one to the fuse block (25 amp max) up front, one to the charger, and one (with an inline 50 amp fuse) to a marine stereo amplifier.

Fuse block to switch panel (where applicable), then to terminal block, then to load, then to negative bus bar.

If there are any omissions or glaring faults with this, would someone please let me know? Thanks!
 
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