1996 Stratos 268DC - Livewell

auzgood

Recruit
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
2
Hi guys, just purchased a little 1996 stratos in fair condition. Have to patch a few cracks, resurface some gel-coat, and fix the livewell. Other than that its a pretty solid boat so far.


*This is my first time owning a boat and I have little knowledge of how things operate.

At the moment, either of the two live-wells work. I have power to accessory and to bilge. What previous owner said was that the boat could use an aerator timer, so i believe that is what is behind front bow switches. Which are currently unplugged, as well as one of the pumps near transom. Called my local marine shop, they estimated around 250$ labor, plus any parts. So if anyone can give me some input on troubleshooting or what to do before I save up to take it down there, i would appreciate it
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Below are pictures and brief descriptions to my knowledge -

This is showing the two livewell pumps. Both have Black and Brown wires coming from the pumps. One is hooked up and the other is not.
DrxRVrA.jpg


The Brown and Black wires lead into plastic tubing, then im not able to trace them to much until the dash.
bsyJLsG.jpg


The Dash. *Note Bilge and Accessory work. Accessory, is a stereo installed in adjacent console.
8kvMFaT.jpg


The wiring behind the Dash switches. *Forward aerator on the left, rear on the right.
xvolTzn.jpg


Just a close up of the above picture behind dash, focus on fwd and rear switches.
e2LR0er.jpg


The front bow, behind the plate is 4 switches. Two unplugged, believe they are fwd/read aerator switches.
Zm9oJhL.jpg


Below is 4 switches the two that are on the far left side out of focus i think are accessory/bilge but haven't tested or confirmed anything. Previous owner told me that he believes the livewells do not work because the front bow switches are unplugged.
lEfquke.jpg


The next two images are just close ups of the two switches that have unplugged leads. 1 broke and one intact.
AYLBo9X.jpg

IkvLjfO.jpg


From behind the two switches above. The wires lead down this group, of which an unplugged black lead is.
X7TZLMK.jpg


Didnt want to pull it up to much, but further down the bow wire is? Unsure as to what this might be.
7XwpJI1.jpg



I do not have many tools or testers, so if you could link amazon equipment if referenced I would appreciate it.

Anyway, hope the images are good enough to see. Couldn't move the boat or the Sun. Also im in greater San Diego area, if anyone is near by and might want to take a look at it an have a beer.


Thanks in advance.

- Austin

The last picture might be the actual timer?


found this http://www.iboats.com/Rig-Rite-OEM-T.../view_id.47410

I should have a wire tester tomorrow - linked below is the one i ordered.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EJXUJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,758
The non-contact tester will be of zero value to you since it is used to test for the presence of AC (alternating current) not DC (direct current). Your boat electrical system is powered by a 12 volt battery. You need a simple hand held Volt-Ohm-Milliamp Meter (VOM) that is about $10 - $15 in the electrical dept of any big box store like Lowes or Home Depot. Just testing for the presence of voltage is not a valid test anyway. You want to know exactly how much voltage is present when doing circuit testing. Current flows from the battery, through a fuse, to one side of a switch, out the other side, to the accessory, out the accessory and back to the negative terminal on the battery. Think of it as water running through a pipe with the switch being a valve.

You don't even need a tester to test the pumps. simply disconnect them and hook the tan wire to the positive post of the battery and the black wire to the negative terminal. If it runs, you have a wiring issue. If not you have a pump issue.
 
Last edited:

auzgood

Recruit
Joined
Aug 10, 2016
Messages
2
Thank you for the reply! Since Ive already got pumps for fwd/aft live wells, would it be that hard to just install my own switch? I don't need it installed to the dash anywhere or anywhere fancy.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,758
The wiring is already there. Use it. Why make work when it is not needed.
 

mjf55

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
462
If you can make sense out of the current wiring, it pays to reuse the existing wires. That being said, i am confused as to your set up. Do you have 2 sets of switches, one at the console and other on the bow? If so, why? So you can control the pumps from either location?

Get yourself a digital volt meter as was already stated. Check for continuity from the wires at the pump to the switches. I would just use the set on the console ( first set of pictures. ) make sure you have power to the switch ( after the fuse). Just hook op the brown wires from the pumps, making sure the blaxk ones connect together and to ground.
 
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