Glen-L WB Power Skiff Build

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Thanks for the encouragement guys, I only had a few hrs to work on the boat today, so I basically fiddled with things, did a few mockups, and stared alot ;)

I did work out the stain color thing, I dug around in the paint closet and found some minwax bombay mahogany stain and poly mix, tried it on a bare piece of oak and it was just ok, then I tried it over the cognac and it was nice!. So I think 2 coats of cognac, and 4 coats of the bombay should do it.

This is 2 coats of cognac and 2 coats of bombay.

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So im thinking that mix, plus 6-10 coats of Spar should level it out nice, and give good protection.
 

zool

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Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Then I set up the new pin nailer and trim router and messed with the gunnel caps. What i did was position whatever width pieces of the 1/4 oak would completely cover the curve and temporarily tacked it in place with 3/4" pins, then put a carbide trim bit in the router, and just ran it along the inner and outer hull sides...worked pretty good once I got the mojo going.

I tried to chose pieces with the straightest grain.

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Then i just overlapped them to allow for scarfing.

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So that method will work out fine.

Then I took some camps and scrap and mocked up the whole gunnel cap assembly.

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Now I have to figure out the spacing from bow to stern for a uniform look.

When I took it back apart, the pin ail holes were barely visible.
 
Last edited:

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,435
Coming along nicely ! Interested in seeing how your gunna do the joints on the rails ...
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Coming along nicely ! Interested in seeing how your gonna do the joints on the rails ...

If u mean how im gonna attach all the pieces, I have a plan....1st im gonna glue and counter sink screw holes in the outwale, and plug them, then im gonna glue and tack the 1/4 outer inwale, then screw and glue the spacer blocks, then glue and countersink the inwale same as the outer one...all while clamped. When I sand it al, ill round oer the edges, and if I can make a jig, I may oval the spaces

The only problem I see is the rails might not support the boat when flipped, so I may flip it 1st and fir/paint the bottom, the flip it back and do the trim work...IDK....still working that out ;)
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,435
Yes basically with the scarfing and such . Will it get a top cap over the outer assembly ? Up to the spacers ?
 

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
No Sam, im just capping the center with the 1/4 to cover the plywood hull side edges...once its all glued and clamped tight, it should close most of the gaps, then maybe some filler and a ton of sanding, then a ton of varnish...On a better build, a nice vaneer over the whole cap would probably look great tho.

The scarfed joints will be tricky, im basically gonna cross cut them at 90 deg, then scarf them at 60 deg...(max on the makita)
 

zool

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Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
I Made a little more progress today, I filled the forward bench base with some rigid foam board, leaving a little room on the top for cleats.

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.

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I used the cleats to keep the sides true and straight for capping.

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I ripped some mdo to fit the base and screwed into the cleats.

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I have to thicken some resin and cove it in, and maybe wrap it all in cloth for good measure.

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zool

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Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Update:

I installed the outer transom planking today, I had to do this now so I can fair the outer hull and it ties into the sides.

I pre-cut all the pieces and temporarily pinned them in place a little oversized to be trimmed. Then took them apart, spread on some thickened resin and reattached them.

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Then I strapped the boat up to flip it.

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Now that its back over, I can finish fairing the bottom and sides, and get some paint on them. The bottom and boot stripe will be oyster white, the sides will be hunter green, and the transom will be stained and varnished.
 
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