Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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could swear there was no difference in auto and marine flywheel just regular and heavy duty since they came in cars and trucks back then, be sure the bendix is lubed and the spring isn't weak but i still swear its just mis alignment :)
 

archbuilder

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Thanks for the thought Micky. Spring is good, everything on the starter is lubed and working fine (its new also, but I did check). It does appear to be an alignment issue, I have shimmed and fiddled with it till I am blue in the face. I ordered a flywheel today from evilbay. I figure if anything I can always sell it later. But I am really running out of ideas on this one. For now I am moving on to other things and we will see where we are once it gets here. I have a lot of odds and ends that need to be installed before the engine anyway. Tonight I am working on a few yard chores. This weekend I would like to get things ready to drop the engine in, hopefully next week.
 

mickyryan

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hey just a thought, bad grounding, i had a bendix once wouldn't slam in and out and it wound up being a connection issue... still thinking on it for ya , while you move onto other things:) just tossing out ideas :)
 

archbuilder

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Hey Micky, thanks for the thoughts. Pretty sure the ground is good but worth checking. I have had bad ground issues on other things before.....seems like they are always the "ghost issues"! I picked up two of the parts I had re-chromed today. Also got the electric fuel pump and a few odds and ends for the electrical.
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nurseman

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Mmmmmmmm, chrome. Don't even want to know what the price tag was on having that done, but they sure look good!
 

archbuilder

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Long day! The gimble assembly and the transom plate are in. I hate 4200, huge mess, but it works!

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And I decided that the swim ladder needed totally broken down and buffed out.....I will have 8 or 10 hours in this before it is done....but I guess it will be worth it. Here is the before and after. Still need to polish up and put sharkhide on everything. I have the two upper vertical tubes almost half done. More sanding and buffing tomorrow.

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Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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It's really coming together Arch. I've been battling a pinched nerve in my neck so haven't done much of anything the past month. Supposed to get Spinal Injection next Wednesday do if it works like they say, I MIGHT be back in action in June. We'll have to make a date then.
 

archbuilder

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I hope you get to feeling better Wood! I am sitting here this morning contemplating more sanding and buffing....for some reason that doesn't sound fun lol!
 

kcassells

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It's really coming together Arch. I've been battling a pinched nerve in my neck so haven't done much of anything the past month. Supposed to get Spinal Injection next Wednesday do if it works like they say, I MIGHT be back in action in June. We'll have to make a date then.

Hang in there Wood! Plenty of mischief still left for you to do!!;)
 

mickyryan

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im same way i wont trust just the lil rubber o ring i put 4200 there as well. rail looks awesome!
 

sphelps

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Looks great Arch ! Polishing aluminum is pretty time consuming . Not much fun but in the end worth all the effort ..
 

archbuilder

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The bufert I have makes it go pretty quick Sam. But the tubing was anodized and you have to get it off first. Its a pain, I have tried oven cleaner, but sanding is the only thing that really works well.
 

kcassells

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You have alot of patience there Arch. I started on some pcs. and screwed them up. Then tossed them in a drawer to forget them. Could you run your exact procedure to get the chrome so nice?
 

archbuilder

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Kcassells, Id be happy to go over polishing up the aluminum. But you mentioned chrome, the chrome pieces were the bow light and the shift handle. I had those re-chromed by a professional. Not sure that there is another way to do that.

I did buff out all of the parts for the swim ladder, which were aluminum. The mounting flanges were chrome diecast, which is very expensive to redo, as I found out when I did the bow light and shift handles. I found some new stainless ones, so I ordered them and should have them this week. As for the process of polishing up everything from this weekends pics, its fairly simple. You just have to spend a little on the right tools. The cast steps were fairly easy, the tubing was the hard part. It was clear anodized, which has to be removed before it can be polished. I have seen where this can be stripped with oven cleaner, but I haven't had much luck with that. I have always resorted to the good old fashion lots of sanding! I like to sand it out to 220 or 320. From there I use a buffer and a couple of wheels. You can used a bench grinder (assuming your wheels have the correct arbor size) but the long shafts on a buffer are helpful. I have also used a large hand held grinder before on things like truck fuel tanks (that is how I learned back in the day). You can pick up a kit with wheels and rouge fairly cheaply. I think I paid about 40$ or so for this one, it has 10" wheels and a selection of rouge.

Click image for larger version  Name:	20180521_174354.jpg Views:	1 Size:	593.1 KB ID:	10576774 Make sure you pay attention to the arbor size, there are a lot of them. The rouges are for different materials.....kind of like grits of sand paper depending on the metals hardness. This kit came with a pretty good guide to tell you what to use with what.

As for the wheels there is sisal, a couple of stitched and a couple non stitched loose wheels in the kit I bought. The sisal wheel is actually natural sisal, and a rough cut wheel. Never had that great of luck with them. The other wheels are cotton, either sewn or non sewn. The tighter the stitches are in the sewn, the coarser the wheel seems to be. You can see some of the stitching on a couple in the pics (second from the right top and the yellow one below it). For aluminum I use the stitched wheels as a finish wheel.

The wheel in the upper right corner is a pleated or airway wheel. I like these for the rough first cut. But this one is untreated, or soft cotton. I picked up a treated (think of it as starched, very stiff and ridgid) airway wheel from Zepher for my rough cut.

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The sewn wheel is on the left and the airway is on the right. For the most part the rouges are color coded. I use a black or brown for my rough cut on the airway wheel. It makes a night and day difference in the finish. Then I use a green rouge with the sewn wheel for my final finish. You can take it farther with a loose wheel and finer rouge, but that is more for show cars etc. Hope that was helpful! And by the way I didn't give a lot for the eastwood buffer, and it has been a good one so far. I like the two speed option.
 

archbuilder

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Think I may have gotten to the bottom of the starter issue today. I spent some time comparing the two starters that Sierra says fit. Interestingly enough one has a 9 tooth gear the other has 11 teeth. I had the 9 tooth.....so I ordered the 11 tooth....I bet 100$ that is what the issue is. I have checked everything else about 100 times.
 
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