Project Fuggly - No Longer Fuggly And Splashed!!!!!!

CrazyFinn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 12, 2016
Messages
357
This is they cylinder partially disassembled. It comes apart fairly easily.

It comes apart fairly easily - but when that little grey piece (in the left/middle of your photo) doesn't come out with the tube, it gets a lot less easy. One of mine got stuck inside... Took a lot of fishing to get it out!
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Chevymaher, I hate to tell you but its a satin finish! I actually prefer that to the gloss most of the time, but it does look good in the pics!

Finn, the guy in the video I watched mentioned that. I think the instructions said something about tapping the ram on a wood block if it didn't come out....which is probably similar to the valve body instructions!

I took today off and put the long anticipated rub rail on with the help of a friend. By the way putting in 120 or so 3/16" rivets by hand is a good grip workout with a manual puller! I also moved the motor from one shop to the other. I need to put the fuel pump on, alternator on....clean up the wiring harness a bit and shim the starter. After that I hope its down to bolting all the goodies in her and getting her wet! (I know I simplified that....but it makes me feel better!)


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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
The BF and Fuggly looks to be long lost cousins!!! Color schemes very similar. But Fuggly and Fuggly no More!!!
 

Pusher

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 2, 2014
Messages
1,273
You've really found some drive! A common man would take some time off after the house rodel and everything else, but not you! Seems like you're heading into the June stretch with the right synergy
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,429
Something about that aqua green and white ! She looks great Arch and nice job on the rub rail !
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
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5,697
Thanks for the comments! Sam / Mike I do like the color combo, I'm glad I didn't change it. I got started on hopefully the last of the engine items that need upgraded last night. I hope to have that wrapped up today, but you never know!
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
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5,697
So today was a bit of a struggle. On my list was:
  1. change the oil sending unit.
  2. change the water temp sending unit
  3. change the fuel pump
  4. hook up the alternator and remove the external regulartor part of the wiring harness
  5. put spilt loom on the wiring and get it clamped down.
  6. shim the starter
So one an two went fine....number 3......well I figured out I had ordered the wrong really expensive mechanical fuel pump...oh in my wisdom....2 years ago! it gets a bit hard too return them after that long

:mad-new:

after stomping around and doing some research I decided to order what I thought about doing originally.... an new electric fuel pump and relay that are marine rated. So by now it was late afternoon.....took a break and decided to try number 4.....quickly figured out that none of the wiring diagrams I had addressed the external regulator correctly. I was a bit steamed at this point! After a break I figured out removing it was fairly simple. After some poking around I sorted out that one diagram I have is mostly right. I was able to sort out the safety switches, some were on the harness, the limit was in the bellhousing and another was on the transom plate......I coudn't figure out the last one that goes on the transom plate till I figured out it was still on the wiring for the trim pump. So for the most part I think the wiring diagram I have works.....but its tiny at 8-1/2x11....so tomorrow I think I will use that really expensive plotter I have at the office to print it at 24x36 or so to mark up.

The last thing I did worked out. The shift interlock switch has a corner cracked off and doesn't work. Last time I looked into replacing it the only thing I could find was a new switch that you could sort of retro fit.....for about $400! I did some poking around tonight with the original parts number (it was later superseded 4 times) and found a new old stock one for $50. I counted that as a victory and decided it was steak time and try again tomorrow!
 

oldrem

Commander
Joined
Nov 7, 2013
Messages
2,002
I can relate Arch. Wish I had the $ for everything I ordered in anticipation only to find out too late it was wrong or I changed directions on a project and the items were no longer needed.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Made some progress today. I traced all the wires on the wiring harness and compared them to the diagram....checking termination location and color. I also checked continuity for all the circuits. Everything was correct except one wire that was labeled black on the diagram was actually black with a yellow stripe. I had the cannon plug hooked up and check the bow end of that when the circuits went up there. I still need to check the trim/tilt wiring harness, but everything associated with the engine and gauges is ready to go. Originally everything was wrapped in electrical tape. But I striped that off when I had to modify the wiring harness for the length of the 6 cylinder.

20180513_142311.jpg I took off the duct tape and put electrical tape around the wires to bundle them up. Then I installed some split loom.

20180513_151542.jpg I couldn't use the T's everywhere because of the spacing of the branches...but it did work well where I could use them. Not exactly a factory job, but cleaned things up.

The oil pressure sender interfered with the wiring harness where the cannon plug hooks up. It had a couple brass fittings between it and the block that angled it up. I looked at my old 4 cylinder and it screwed strait into the block.

20180513_152027.jpg
So I took it off, removed the brass, and reinstalled it. Works a lot better now.
20180513_153142.jpg
 

archbuilder

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Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
quick update. I move things around a put the motor in my shop and fuggly in the other shop. I have been fighting with the starter / flywheel. they only mesh up about 50% of the time. I'm going to pull the flywheel tomorrow night to check to make sure I have the correct one. I have already tried shimming the starter and check to make sure the one I have is correct (its new). Also with the bell housing out of the way I will have a much better view of the two gears. I think I will also put a dial indicator on the flywheel and check to see if it is true. After that I'm not sure if I don't find something wrong!
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
if only meshing sometimes i would say grind starter mount on starter to put it closer to flywheel?
clean paint off of block where it mounts to block, but if it is too close it would show scores on edge and deep in the tooth if i recall correctly too far put it on outer edges of teeth, just what i remember from dealing with same issue long ago. and yeah my issue was it wasn't too far in it was too far out and the grinding made for a better grab , more tooth on flywheel instead of outer edge.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
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Sep 12, 2009
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5,697
Thanks for the thought Micky, but after a lot of measuring, shimming and fiddling I pulled the bell-housing, then the flywheel tonight. I am about 99% sure I have an automotive flywheel, based on casting numbers, that went with the old automotive starter! I am looking at a few used flywheels that should be the correct for the application. I am fairly certain this is the issue, I have double checked the starter. Even when the teeth do mesh and engage I noticed that stater pinion gear had a tendency to get hung up in the ring gear and not immediately retract the way it should. I suspect there is just enough difference in the gear designs to cause the issue......hopefully I am ready to get this thing in Fuggly!
 
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