1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

Is it all in 1 piece if you order it folded? I think the glass off a roll would be easier to work w/ when cutting & laying it up w/ resin.
This should get you started on materials:View attachment Fiberglass repair MaterialsList.pdf

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

Hey I love to watch guys work on glass boats but I know nothing about actually doing the glassing other than what I've seen and read about here. I'm not a pretender to know everything but I do know about tin boats though!

Some of the guys here walk the walk and will let you know, like WOG.

 

[eggs712]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

Is it all in 1 piece if you order it folded? I think the glass off a roll would be easier to work w/ when cutting & laying it up w/ resin.
This should get you started on materials:View attachment 223802

Thank you for that file.

I do believe that the folded is all in one piece. I agree with you that the rolled will be better though. I hate working with the creases that come with the crappy general purpose glass from generic hardware stores that I've used for other repairs, which comes folded. So I'll just pay a little more and get the rolls.

I apologize if I ask for too many details; I guess it's why I'm studying to be an engineer

 

[jfas]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

jfas- Do you have the 1750V also? I've had no luck finding anyone other boats exactly like my model after a few searches of the Internet.

No, I'm working on a 1986 Dyna Trak 150. It's a older bass boat, but looks like pretty similar layout with the exception of the winshield, and console.

JFas

 

[Daniel1947]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

Only passing on info I have seen on the forum in other resto's and heard from one manufacturer. You don't want your fiberglass cloth...1708 or csm...folded. Unless someone else with more knowledge can offer differant advice, I think I would want it rolled up.

 

[eggs712]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

No, I'm working on a 1986 Dyna Trak 150. It's a older bass boat, but looks like pretty similar layout with the exception of the winshield, and console.

Oh okay. Well I hope you can benefit from watching my restore! These bass boats are tricky because the caps are really difficult to remove. On the flip-side of that, most structure of my boat is concentrated where I'm restoring it. The front and rear decks don't actually rest on the deck or stringers at all. Otherwise, I'd be in trouble.

I have a big question for the experts:
I made a couple sketches of a problem I'm running into.

As you can see below, the wooden decking underneath the rear deck/cap only runs along the edge of hull where the rear deck begins. There is some rot in both stringers extending towards the stern. The wooden decking has slight rot beginning underneath.



In the next sketch below, you can see that the rear deck/cap does not actually rest on the wooden decking below is. Thus, it seems to me that the narrow decking below the rear deck is only for providing hull rigidity.



My problem lies in that I can't replace the narrow decking below the rear deck because the cap/deck itself is in the way. To remove the cap would be a LOT more work, and doesn't seem at all worth it to me. Since the cap doesn't even rest on that part of the deck, it seems pretty unimportant.

Since the shell around the two stringers there is good, my idea is that I can get away with simply removing as much rotten wood as I can from the stringers, and then filling the void with Bondo body filler, which I already have a gallon of.

Will my idea work?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

The stringers are an important structural component of the hull of the boat. It's important that they be longitudinally strong and bonded well to the hull. Filling the existing shell with bondo would NOT be a structurally wise method for resolving this issue in my opinion. But...As I always say...It's your boat and you're free to do as you see fit. If I'm going to err I always try to do so on the side of safety.

 

[eggs712]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

I'm not a big fan of my idea myself honestly, lol. What do you think I should do? I'm gonna get to work this weekend, so I'd like to have a good idea of what to do going in. I'll probably finish all the tear down this weekend, and will therefore have time to at least start on fixing this problem.

Thanks for all the advice so far!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

As you say, Bass Boats are problematic due to the way the top caps are attached and built. However, if the stringers are rotten you need to gain access to them in order to replace them in the correct way, by whatever means necessary. This link might be of some help..."Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

I'm not a big fan of my idea myself honestly, lol. What do you think I should do? I'm gonna get to work this weekend, so I'd like to have a good idea of what to do going in. I'll probably finish all the tear down this weekend, and will therefore have time to at least start on fixing this problem.

Thanks for all the advice so far!

Hey eggs, here is what I've done with my big ole tub of tin that should be some sort of motivation to tear down and repair everything you can, the best you can.

Before...


And now...


Rebuilding boats of any sort is not easy but it is rewarding!

 

[eggs712]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

Woodonglass- I apologize if it seems like I'm trying to skirt around doing it the correct way, but I'm pretty much unable to remove the cap; not simply because of the difficulty, but also because of limited work space. My friend's grandpa is kind enough to let me work on my boat in his barn, but he needs the rest of the barn for all of his stuff. Thus, I would have nowhere to put the cap if it were removed.

I also have some access to the two stringers via the bilge area, as the two rear compartments where the batteries and fuel tanks are located allow access to the beginning of the stringers. That said, I will likely be able to completely take out all of the old stringer wood while preserving the stringers shell. That would allow me to pour a composite stringer material such as Nida-core or Seacast into the shell. Would that work? I'm just tossing around ideas right now trying to figure this all out. Any advice and comments are greatly appreciated.

Watermann-That looks like a neat boat! Are you still restoring it at the moment?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

The stringers run the entire length of the boat from the bow to the stern. You need total access to them.

 

[eggs712]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

In that case, I may just use Nida-core for the entire stringer. That way, it would one solid piece without removing the cap. Plus, it would never rot. I've been researching it intensively for a couple of hours, and I think it would be a good option for me.

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

Yeah working on her every chance I get, the thread for my Chief is in my sig line.

The key is to just keep moving forward and don't get discouraged.

 

[greenbush future]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

In that case, I may just use Nida-core for the entire stringer. That way, it would one solid piece without removing the cap. Plus, it would never rot. I've been researching it intensively for a couple of hours, and I think it would be a good option for me.

Been watching and reading along, nice project you have there. The Nida core is a costly choice, have you calculated $$$ this yet?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

I'm getting confused. How will you get all of the old rotted wood out of the original stringer tabbings if you can't access them? Trying to Pour Nidacore into existing Stringer tabbings is not usually a good idea. Based on your previous pics, don't the stringers act as deck supports in other areas of the boat? If so, how are you planning on getting the stringers to the proper height when you pour the nidacore if you cut of the top of the tabbings to remove the old wood? Lot's of issues to consider. The nidacore also needs to be well adhered to the Forms so you would need to be able to grind/sand and then clean the insides of the old stringer tabbings to enhance the bonding of the nidacore to the old tabbings. Again, it's generally not recommended to re-use existing stringer tabbings but...you know what I always say!!!

 

[jfas]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

Woodonglass- I apologize if it seems like I'm trying to skirt around doing it the correct way, but I'm pretty much unable to remove the cap; not simply because of the difficulty, but also because of limited work space. My friend's grandpa is kind enough to let me work on my boat in his barn, but he needs the rest of the barn for all of his stuff. Thus, I would have nowhere to put the cap if it were removed.

I also have some access to the two stringers via the bilge area, as the two rear compartments where the batteries and fuel tanks are located allow access to the beginning of the stringers. That said, I will likely be able to completely take out all of the old stringer wood while preserving the stringers shell. That would allow me to pour a composite stringer material such as Nida-core or Seacast into the shell. Would that work? I'm just tossing around ideas right now trying to figure this all out. Any advice and comments are greatly appreciated.

Watermann-That looks like a neat boat! Are you still restoring it at the moment?

Eggs,

You could do what I did with my cap and hoist it straight up from where the boat is sitting. The benefit of this is it doesn't require any additional floor space.



JFas

 

[eggs712]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

greenbush- I hate the cost too. I'm looking at it as a way to fill in the stringer shell where I don't have proper access to glass in a wood stringer. I'm worried that bondo filler would be too stiff and not allow hull flex.

Woodonglass- Sorry for the confusion! I'll try to clarify.

I can get all of the rotted wood out by scraping it out from the stringer shell opening. I also have additional access to the stringer via the bilge area. My boat has two rear hatches that open to the bilge area. Today, I was actually able to get all of the rotten wood/mush from the starboard stringer shell.



As you can see in the pic, I grinded the top of the stringer off and then scooped the wood out. There was also a piece of plywood that stretched from the the edge of the hull to the stringer where the battery and T/T motor sit; it was rotten so I removed it. Scraping the stringer wood out took some time because there is the 1.5 feet of stringer that is covered by the casting deck. I had to use a long flat head screwdriver to get it all out.

My problem lies in the section of the stringer covered by the casting deck because I can't properly install a wood stringer there. To get around that, my idea is to pour a composite material from where the stringer begins to where it goes just past the casting deck. I could then tie in the composite part of the stringer to the rest of the wooden stringer. While I wouldn't be able to tab in the part of the composite stringer that's inaccessible, I could still tab it in where it starts (bilge) and ends (just past casting deck). I would use composite for that portion so that I wouldn't have to worry about the untabbed middle portion of the stringer allowing rot.

I hope that cleared up my situation! What do y'all think?

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

This is going to sound flippant and I really don't mean it that way. But,,,,are you going to use a really tiny grinder to prepare the surfaces for new material 1.5 feet into the stringer? This is not as simple as finding some space age material to stick in there and expect it to do anything. Please listen to Woody. JMHO

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1983 Procraft 1750V Boat Restoration

Pushing a paste like product up a narrow channel up under the fore deck is going to be a fairly big challenge, IMO.

At the boundary between the rotten stringer & the new nida-core, how do you plan to ensure you've removed 100% of the rotten wood, well beyond the end of where the rot 'seems' to end?